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Published: March 13th 2007
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Dubrovnik
It's THE destination for a reason Matt:
Don’t you find it annoying when you go out for a drink with a few mates and the conversation turns to something you can’t contribute to? Whether it is a movie you haven’t been to, a song you haven’t heard or a current event that you haven’t read up on, I always find myself sitting back, sighing obviously and waiting for the conversation to turn to something a little more to my tastes (like Brangelina or Lost or Daniel Craig). Over the past year for Ed and me, two subjects have stood out as complete tune-outs: the Ashes (I try, but I just don’t get it) and Croatia.
Croatia is THE destination in Europe at the moment. Actually - more specifically - Croatia is THE destination in Europe amongst our circle of friends at the moment (ie. twenty something Londoners - most with Aussie accents - who seem the divide their time unequally between the pub and the continent). Literally, everyone has been there. Except us. Until recently.
Looking back now, the level of expectation with which we approached Croatia was probably a little unfair. But for literally 12 months, Ed and I have been sighing through
Pile Gate
Ancient turrets and drawbridges now explored by equally ancient German tourists (and one poof in pink) conversation after boring conversation about the, the ‘amazing Dalmatian islands’, the ‘fabulous clubs’ and the ‘amazing weather’. Like a virgin on his wedding night, in the end Dubrovnik just couldn’t measure up under the intense pressure.
To be honest, we probably weren’t really in the mood for another trip: we had been away four weekends in a row and the cheese fondue in Switzerland was still fresh in our stomachs. And so I guess it wasn’t all that surprising when we arrived at the hotel and we went straight to bed and slept. And slept and slept and slept.
In fact I’m tempted to end this blog here. Maybe we should get T-shirts printed: ‘I went to Dubrovnik and all I got was a good night sleep’. As it happened, it wasn’t that uneventful so here goes…
After waking up eight hours later (and with a smile on our faces and a spring in our steps), we headed into the old town for one of the seafood platters we had heard so much about.
Dubrovnik’s Old Town more than lived up to the pressure placed on it. It is gorgeous! Built around a single main polished
The Placa...
...the polished marble main strip of Dubrovnik marble street called the Placa that leads to the harbour, Dubrovnik is the walled city that leaves all others in its wake. Walking around, it seemed that in addition to defending the city from the Spanish, English and French Armadas of yesteryear; they have continued to shelter the city to this day (apart from the armies of souvenir stores, Coca Cola vendors and Aussie backpackers).
Oh, and the seafood platter was nice too.
The following day we checked out the city by daylight and walked the amazingly preserved city walls. We were about half way around the walls when the weather began the turn. The ‘gorgeous blue oceans’ gave way to a sullied grey mass as the ‘amazing weather’ retreated. We then went back to our hotel and slept.
That night we headed back into the old town for dinner and a few drinks at a local jazz bar - very kewl.
The following day, faced with grey skies, we decided to hire a car and drive along the coast to the little island of Korcula which a friend had recommended. The road north from Dubrovnik hugged the rugged coastline and was really spectacular despite the
Dubrovnik
A.K.A. Florence on the Adriatic weather.
Korcula is connected to the mainland by a car ferry which makes the short crossing every 90 minutes. Luckily, we had pulled up to the wharf just in time to catch the 11.50am service. Unluckily, the car ferry captain decided that the 11.50am service would depart without any cars on board. The ferry sailed off with a queue of angry torch and pitchfork bearing Croats still waiting anxiously on shore.
At 1.20pm, the ferry returned and after squeezing on board we made it across to the Island.
Korcula City is like a miniature Dubrovnik. Its pale walls, which rise out of the Adriatic, surround a tiny town whose stone streets fan out across the hill upon which it is built. Apart from being exceptionally beautiful, the town is also said to be the birthplace of Venetian explorer, Marco Polo which gives it special significance for modern day travellers.
On that wet Saturday afternoon, the streets of Korcula were deserted apart from a few villagers who were busy decorating the streets and local cathedral for a wedding later that day. We found a local seafood restaurant an enjoyed another seafood platter before making our way back
Dubrovnik...
The clouds and waves move in... to Dubrovnik and the next stage of our Dalmatian journey.
Although a combination of the weather, the off-season crowds of continental pensioners and the odd unfriendly local meant that Croatia was not THE destination we had heard about, we still had a great time. On top of catching up on some much needed sleep, our time away also allowed us to see some amazing sights and stuff ourselves stupid on the best seafood we have eaten since we left Australia.
Sorry for the delay between blogs. We’ve vowed to catch up over the next few weeks so stay tuned!
Miss you all heaps!
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Mum McCarron
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Another Gem
Great read, maybe I can come next time. I will be good I promise xxx