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Days 18-20 7th, 8th & 9th June Murano-Palmanova-Plitvice (Croatia via Slovenia)
Day 18 7th June - Murano
It was raining. Not just outside but, sad to report, inside too. The skylight in the living area had developed an ominous leak, not a waterfall but a continuous drip drip onto the seating area. Immediate action was required as the forecast was for thunderstorms & intermittent rain for the next 3 days. Il P instantly became Mr DIYer and scrambled onto the roof. After mobile phone (on loudspeaker) consultation with the lorry builders there was nothing for it but to gaffer tape the skylight. We set up weather proofing arrangements in the living and left….
Murano was a vap ride of 45 minutes from Punta Sabbioni. The lagoon was grey, misty & uninviting and spirits were somewhat low brought on by the leaking lorry, the weather & the rather depressing Cemetery Island which we passed before docking on Murano. Murano, the home of the famous Italian glass, the island where the Venetians sent the glass industry when their furnaces threatened to burn down Venice, soon wrought its magic…it may have been raining but this enchanting island, dissected by narrow canals,
was alight with colour. The tourists had evaporated, probably taking cover inside Venice’s museums, and we had the place almost to ourselves.
We were agog at the chandeliers being sold in glass filled emporiums – they were large, they were gawdy and they were beautiful all at the same time. The Biennale (the bi-annual Venetian Art Festival) afforded us an exhibition in an old warehouse lined with original furnaces – contemporary art housed in a traditional environment – wow.
From Murano we hopped back on a vap and into the top eastern part of Venice – Cannaregio. This is where the real Venetians live; there are real shops (chemists, haberdashers, computer shops, electricians etc) and no gondolas or taxis on the canals, just everyday water boats used like cars. We walked across to the Grand Canal and caught a vap all the way down the Canal to San Marco. From there it was but another vap hop to Punta Sabbioni…………had the gaffer tape worked?
….unfortunately not, but the trickle into the lorry had been contained and no damage sustained.
We left Venice behind with fond memories of awe inspiring architecture, captivating canals, no cars, no bicycles,
good food & wine.
Day 19 – 8th June Rosazzo, Nr. Palmanova, Friuli
Two hours from Venice travelling east towards Slovenia you arrive in the Italian district of Friuli. The Adriatic is on your right and on the left, rising in the distance, are the Dolomites. Bordering the Adriatic are the flat lands of the area housing the Italian chair and kitchen cupboard industry; it is the second of these industries that has brought us here. No doubt you are wondering why we should choose such a strange stopover on our Grand Tour? Read on…..
Il Piloto’s business is one of B&Q’s top 30 suppliers and amongst this group is also Pierluigi Zamo. Pierluigi supplies kitchen cupboard doors, but that is not his only claim to fame – he and his family run the successful, award winning winery Le Vigne di Zamo. Pierluigi is part of the Italian Slow Food Movement and is making his way back from Piedmont while Richard, his UK Business Manager (married to an Italian), entertains us to lunch at the Osteria Campiello where we drink Zamo wine and eat food prepared by the Michelin chef. Big Bess causes much amusement in the
Osteria’s car park; she is positively regal as she stands head and shoulders above the Porsches, the Audis & the BMWs.
Next on the Agenda was a visit to Le Vigne di Zamo. The 65 hectares of vineyards nestle up in the Colli Orientali del Friuli, rolling hills staged with vineyards, beautiful villas surrounded by Olive & Cypress trees atop each Colli. Le Vigne di Zamo was one such villa, looking down on the 65 hectares, to the sea, to Slovenia and to the Dolomites. Ravishing panoramas in which to live and grow wine. Their wine cellars take full advantage of state of the art technology without losing any of the traditional country wisdom; in the cool shade of the arches, built into a hill, a religious silence lies over the wines as they ferment, age and mature in their oak barrels.
We are kindly invited to taste the wines; the family bring out ham & cheese. Pierluigi returns from Piedmont. We discuss wine, the slow food movement and B&Q. Finally, he insists we stay at the winery that evening; we protest but relent at the prospect of a wonderful bathroom with a BATH!
Big Bess spends
the night outside the winery.
The Zamo family welcomed us into their business and their home with great warmth and gave us a day to remember. We are converts to Italian wine, thank you.
Day 20 – 9th June - Rosazzo – Plitvice National Park
Transit Day. We leave the vineyards, drop down to the sea, drive past Trieste, into Slovenia, out of Slovenia into Croatia heading for Plitvice National Park. The countryside has changed –it’s the Scottish Highlands meets Bavaria.
I am writing this on my lap top as we whizz through Croatia on a very smart new ‘expressway’. We are listening to Alan Bennett reading ‘Winnie the Pooh’ – Pooh, Eeyore, Piglet, Kanga, Rabbit & Owl are just setting off with Christopher Robin to discover the North Pole; I wonder if their adventures will be as exciting as ours?
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Clare & Duncan
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