Mostar was mind-boggling.
One of the main mind-screwing things was that the door to our apartment was bullet-ridden.
But that stood out massively/paled in comparison to all the bullet holes... everywhere. And mortar marks. oh yes and gutted, destroyed buildings with no rooves and only one whole wall - that was the one shared by a bright pink, modern, immaculate, apartment block.
The people were friendly though, and the food was excellent, and very cheap, cheaper than you can eat in nz!