Sunshine in Sarajevo

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Our route until April 2007Sarajevo was not in our original itineray, but Bosnia was included in our railcard so we decided that the 12hour train journey to the capital city would be worth it- it really was! We arrived really late, but were greeted off the train by a very friendly man who spoke no English but knew about 4 words of German and had very imaginative sign language. Our hostel was right on the edge of "Pigeon Square" which is a really lively meeting point for locals because it borders onto the Turkish market and the city's main mosque. It was really nice because we were able to hear the call to prayer which rang across the city five times per day. Also the balcony leading to our hostel room had an excellent view across the market to the small houses and mountains beyond the city. Our hostel included a free breakfast, which was served in the restaurant underneath the hostel. We were served a slightly strange assortment of eggs and cake with a tea that we dubbed "candyfloss tea" because we could actually feel our teeth rotting as we drank it! On our first day we wandered down to the river, passing the spot where Arch-Duke Franz Ferdinand was shot, sparking World War I. We walked down towards the train station, passing run down buildings and shops littered with bullet and shrapnel wounds. Throughout the city there are constant reminders of how recently it had been ravaged by war. It is an important reminder and it gives the city a very realistic feel. That evening we went for a meal in the Turkish District. We were enticed inside by a man in traditional dress who told us that it was the only restaurant in the area which served alcohol! The restaurant itself was like a museum with many pretty pieces of furniture and pots. Ciara ordered a "Bosnian Sword" which is a traditional sword skewered with an assortment of meat. The next day we wandered down the main shopping street, passed "The Eternal Flame" monument dedicated to the people who died in World War II. We then lazed about in the city park with many locals, soaking up the sunshine. For lunch we were lured into a local cafe and tasted the local dish "Burek". It was fantastic rolls of meat smothered in pastry, deep fried and served with natural yoghurt. That afternoon we wandered back into the Turkish District passing a group of Elderly men playing a giant game of chess on the chequered pavement slabs in the main park. We strolled through the amazing Turkish markets which are a maze of winding lanes and alleys, lined with little shops owned by weathered old men. Each shop was crammed full of hand made metal ornaments, tea sets, wooden carvings, rugs and jewelry. We pretty much covered every type of souvenir! Ciara bought a gorgeous, ornate tea pot, a traditional coffee pot and a pepper mill. Michelle bought a handcrafted chess set, a wooden jewelry box, and a handcrafted sugar bowl. Claire bought two handmade Bracelets and a candle stick. We decided that we could be slightly lavish because the exchange rate was in our favour! That evening we stumbled upon an Irish Bar in the centre of the city which had a man singing live music (most of it songs we recognised but which were slightly distorted by his strong Bosnian accent!) The next day we wandered up into the hills behind our hostel, passed a huge cemetry full of the graves of victims of the recent war. We walked through the winding streets up into the hills and reached a park which looked out across the whole city. It had beautiful views. We walked back into the city and had a coffee in a cafe in a hidden courtyard surrounded by traditional rug shops, before heading back to the hostel.
We really liked Sarajevo. It was totally different from anything we had done so far, particularly because the city had a very Eastern feel to it. It was very relaxed and exciting at the same time and all of us know we will go back again some day.

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