Down Time in Vienna

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We arrived in Vienna and I had no idea which direction to go in. The guys help me with my luggage and I catch the D tram going the wrong way. Bad directions to hostels are turning out to be one of the main frustrations of travel. Often, the hotel/hostel assumes you know the city so finding your accommodations can be tricky and very trying.

After going past many stops—none of which are recognizable, I'm frustrated and disheartened and get off the tram to study the map. After half an hour, I still don't understand where I'm at so I get back on the tram. Finally, I ask another passenger and he tells me I'm going in the wrong direction. No problem—I hop off and catch the next one going the opposite way.

A very attractive woman is sitting across the isle on the new tram and she is intrigued with my 'pack on a cart' arrangement. She's traveled a lot and liked the concept. At my stop, she got off with me and walked me to the little street where my pension was located.

I was a bit nervous about checking in because I'd made a mistake when booking online and, unlike a hostel, they charged for five people in a five person room. Turns out the people at the pension were quite understanding since I'd sent them an email and gave me the room for 55 Euro.

After I showered and washed my hair, I was sitting at an lovely outdoor cafe a few hours later. To my surprise, the lady on the tram rode by on her bike and recognized me. She joined me for a while and gave me tips of things to see and do in Vienna.

My first impressions of Vienna were very good. Most everyone spoke a little English and went out of their way to be helpful. I was quite tired when I arrived and every piece of clothing I had needed washing. The first two days I rested and caught up on laundry. Usually, I wash things in the sink but when there's a big load, it's worth finding a laundromat—which isn't so easy here. After a wild-goose chase that got me to a dry cleaner in the only seedy part of the town, I finally located one of the city's few laundromats. The system is the same as in Paris—you put money in a central machine, enter the number of the washer you're using and then your machine starts.

My hostel moved me to their sister pension which turned out to be ok since the room had better light and was cheaper. I liked the old neighborhood better for restaurants and the internet so I kept returning there by tram.

The weather was perfect! And all of Vienna was out enjoying it. Europe had a long wet winter/spring so the 75 degree temps put the entire city in a good mood. This is a very grand city and signs of past wealth are evident. All of the buildings are opulent and beautifully built and are all still in magnificent condition. The Hapsburgs and many of Europe's nobility lived here. They supported music, the arts and it still shows today. The parks are abundant and flowers are blooming everywhere.

The Volks Garden (people's garden) has a huge variety of roses with names and dates developed. Beautiful. In the central 'Ring' area is located the National Museum, Vienna Opera House, palaces of the nobility and many theaters--very grand. Music and the opera reign here and it's evident, even today, how people attend these musical events.

With all its grandeur, it's still a peaceful, livable city. The cafe culture and outdoor eating is everywhere. The streets are clean, people are relaxed and friendly and it lacks the hectic quality of most cities. The tram & train system is super and get you everywhere.

On my last full day here, I took the train to the Schonbruun Imperial Palace. This is a huge palace and garden complex outside the center of town. The gardens are very formal but lovely all the same. Everything is perfectly manicured and laid out in rows, patterns with fountains, trees and flowers.

I'm a bit "palaced out" by now so I skip that part and head for the Palm House which is a magnificent Victorian Conservatory built in 1882. It is a green painted metal structure with gorgeous graceful lines and thousands of pains of glass. The curves and rivets are equisite from every angle and light. I've never seen anything like it. The only thing that comes close is the Golden Gate Park Conservatory in San Francisco. That's made of wood and painted white and isn't nearly as large or curvy. The use of metal was the latest technology at the time and I saw no sign of rust. Amazing.

Later in the day I took the tram to a little town called Grinzing on the outskirts of Vienna. It has a story book charm located in the center of a wine growing area. There were no vineyards to be seen from the tram but lining the streets were delightful beer and wine gardens. Colorful houses and flowers in window boxes were everywhere. I strolled up and down the main street and selected a great little place where I had some local wine and food--buffet style except you are charged by the weight. Totally delightful time in a picture perfect little Austrian town.

The next day, I leave for Ljubljana, Slovenia by train. The English boys have emailed that they will be arriving there on Sunday.

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