I'll take the high road - the Grossglocknerstrasse

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Geo: 47.5752, 12.708

Friday, we left Lake Bled in Slovenia and rejoined the motorway on which we had arrived to go northwards. After stopping at the services to purchase the required vignette we entered Austria via the impressive Karawanken tunnel. At 7864m long it is one of the longest we have used this trip.

We were soon driving through typical alpine scenery with the hillsides dotted with chalet buildings bedecked with floral balconies, which were set amidst lush green meadows. Meanwhile, as we were nearing the outskirts of Salzburg, the satnav was coming up with a dubious instruction, so after buying a map at a service area, we opted to follow the route recommended for towing as given by Michelin. This was to take us further up the motorway, briefly into Germany, then due south for the final approach to Camping Grubhof, just outside the small town of Lofer.

I had spoken with the site owner (excellent English) the previous day to check that my online request was in order, so we were expected, but we were immediately impressed with the site's efficiency and cleanliness. Registration complete, we drove to our pitch where we were met by her husband who showed us the facilities which compared to some we have used more recently are superb. The pitches are spacious and generous, with a particular layout not seen before whereby you drive on to the hardstanding gravelled area to position the caravan sideways on, with space alongside for parking the car and the other borders a grassed area which they describe as having your own little garden (lawn)! We are also 'plumbed in' for fresh and waste water, have magnificent mountain views and everything for our needs on site.

Saturday, the car did not move as we strolled along the riverside path from the site into nearby Lofer, generally relaxed and got the washing dry. Internet connection made, we researched things to see and do in the coming days, including Salzburg (having grown up on 'The Sound of Music'😉 and the Grossglocknerstrasse - the high alpine toll road and one if the best of its kind Europe - a must-do being married to a petrol head.

Sunday, the weather looked favourable, so we went for it. By 10am we were at the toll booth at the northern end near Fusch and paid the 34€ to enable us to spend the day exploring the 48km route reaching an altitude of over 2,571m above sea level. The climb soon begins via numerous hairpin bends amid towering mountains, many bearing pockets of snow. By this time, the road was busier with not just cars, but also dozens of motorcyclists who must have been in seventh heaven, and cyclists powering on under their own steam in the rising temperature to fulfil a challenge of stamina and determination.

At Edelweiss-Spitze, one of several parking areas serviced with eating places, gift shops and information points, we had panoramic views over many mountains. David was immediately attracted to a group of classic, open-top sports cars and began talking to one German owner. Being left-hand drive, they were all made for export models including Austin-Healey, Triumph, and an E-type, but well cherished and in working order nonetheless.

Moving on, our next major stop was at Kaiser-Franz-Josef-Hohe (2,369m) and in effect the end of the road since this leads you to the Pasterze Glacier and the Glockner itself, where as well as the usual restaurant and gift shop, there is a multi-storey carpark! Motorcyclists are also well catered for with not only a large dedicated parking area, but also lockers in which to securely leave their belongings whilst they see the spectacular sights.

After eating our picnic amid such magnificent scenery (shame about the crowds) and a walk around, we retraced our route back through the park. On the way, we were amazed to see a car towing a small caravan coming towards us! What a memorable day in breathtaking scenery.

Having grown up on 'The Sound of Music', I just had to see it, so Monday it was Salzburg which is about an hour from the campsite. Having considered the various options, we decided to drive to one of the park and ride stops to eliminate the stress of finding a regular car park. The Messe P&R is right beside the Arena, a huge venue for concerts and the like, but today the car park was quiet and we were able to find some shade given the temperature.

We did not have to wait too long for the shuttle bus and within 15 minutes or so we were getting off in the city centre beside the river. We decided to have an early lunch, study the map and get our bearings. The place I had earmarked in one of the quieter side streets turned out to be closed on Mondays, so we found something close by and chose an outdoor table so as to watch the world go by. Having had a sizeable meal at the campsite restaurant the previous evening (very good too) we had the lighter thin crust pizza-type options, followed by typical Austrian puds - rich chocolate cake and apple strudel. Yum!

Lunch done, we first visited the ornate baroque cathedral and gazed up in awe at the stunning dome before taking the funicular up to the Hohensalzburg Fortress which houses museums of not only military history, but also marionettes. Perhaps a connection with the scene 'Lonely Goatherd' scene in 'The Sound of Music' perhaps?

Which brings me to that famous film. You can book onto a four-hour tour which takes in the sights both in and around the city, but I would not contemplate asking David to accompany me. However, in passing we did see the horse fountain in Kapitel-platz which Maria crossed by bus on her way to stay with the von Trapps and walked through the cemetery with catacombs of St. Peter's Abbey where the fight scene was filmed, and though a strange thing to say, but for a place connected with death it was surprisingly appealing and beautiful.

Before catching the shutle back to the car, we strolled down Getreidegasse, a traditional shopping street in the Old Town, including the birthplace of Mozart's, that most famous of Salzburg's sons. As well as tourist shops, there are also several western brands, including McDonalds, but most charmingly they have a little brass overhanging sign.

We are not fans of cities and had our fair share of them last year, but at least I can say I have seen Salzburg now. Preferring scenery, we yesterday did the dedicated cycle path along the valley from the campsite - 14 miles there and back - and returned just before the rain started mid-afternoon and I dont think it has stopped since! Anyway, we have extended our stay by one day to get packed away - come rain, come shine - before moving on to Germany tomorrow (Thursday).

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