From Berat I took a bus southwards to Saranda a port city on Albania’s Ionian Sea coast. We passed some pretty mountain scenery interspersed with some of the 600,000 concrete bunkers that were built during Hoxha’s communist dictatorship (enough for a family in each) to survive a nuclear attack (I’m guessing here). It got more interesting however when during the four hour journey, a number of pensioner ladies got on and a prolonged shouting match ensued with the driver - who was giving as much as he got. From what I could deduce he’d sped past them at an earlier town and now that they had caught up on another bus they were very angry with him. With them on board there were now not enough seats for everybody - but let this get in the
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