Surfing

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So today was another rainy day and I didn´t really do much of anything until I heard a group of people talking about going surfing..so I joined them. So a little boat picks us up (4 of us...2 good surfers, and then myself, and another girl who was just learning) around 4pm. As we are driving to the drop-off point and it begins to pour...but no one seems to be discouraged so I just roll with it (but start to get a little worried). On the way there I also learn that there is a coral bottom (apposed to sand) so I need to be careful. I had imagined that the boat was going to drop us off at some nice beach...but boy was I mistaken. We get dropped off a good ways off of the shore (which is just a rock solid cliff). Anyways long story short...I start to get the feeling that I’m in a little over my head, and once I paddle close enough to see the waves...I realize that I am in WAY OVER MY HEAD. I mean, these waves are huge...straight from Blue Crush...and the guys that we are with just hop in and start shredding sh** up. I hear the other surfers whooping it up and saying how these are the biggest waves in weeks..And here I am, my second time surfing, screw the waves, I’m still working on keeping my balance when I’m just sitting on the board. Then all of a sudden I look up and the BIG GA-HUNNA is crashing down on me...this thing takes me underwater and tosses me around like a rag doll. I have no idea what is up or down and I am running out of air FAST...I’m still underwater and starting to get worried but I keep my body limp (I heard that is what you’re supposed to do...) and finally I float to the top..A little water logged and a little scared...but fine besides that. So needless to say, I spend the rest of the night sitting on my surfboard watching everyone else.

And that was my day…I get back to the hostel, cold and wet, jump in the shower (but I have no towel to dry off with so I “borrow” one that was hanging on the cloths line. And then I treat myself to a nice (kind of expensive) Indian dinner at a local restaurant.

I hope that everyone at home is doing well…if anything interesting happens news-wise please pass it onto me…I’m kind of in my own little world down here. Also, I should have my first Ofoto album up soon…you’ve have already seen most of the good pics, but if your interested check it out.

Adios amigos,
Chris
(Tomorrow I’m leaving and heading to the west coast)

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Comments

[anonymous]

come in Dirty bird........
Hey there Chris. Glad to hear everything is going well over there. Just a little local news for you .... William and Mary will be playing JMU in the semi-finals of the football playoffs. Just thought you would want to know. other then that nothing much going on, Question: Are you renting boards down there or borrowing? and what size is the board? _nathaniel

[Jennie]

surfin'
Are you trying to freak us all out here? be careful! you could always surf with a helmit and lifejacket. I hear it's the new look... ~jen

[anonymous]

Surfing
Chris, you are crazy! Brian