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Published: November 20th 2009
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October 9
I set off from San Salvador in my overly comfy air conditioned bus at 4:30 AM passing through Honduras for the third time, equaling the number of nights I spent there in the last month, this time on my way to Granada, Nicaragua, with a momentary stop in Managua along the way. Set on the shores of Lago de Nicaragua, Grenada is a clean colonial city complete with elegant churches, green plazas, and flowery boulevards that make it a fine place for urban wandering. Tourism is a strong segment of the economy here as most visitors to Nicaragua spend some time here. As a result it is the most gringofied city in Nicaragua, and contains a fair amount of luxurious establishments. After crossing half of Central America in the previous few days it was a nice place to decompress among the company of other travelers, and the patrons of my favorite restaurant, a Salvadorian pupuseria, where I ate almost all my meals over a four day stretch, since I go by the motto, once you find a good pupusa, you stick with it. Granada provided a base camp to visit Laguna de Apoyo, a picturesque crater lake with
many endemic fish where I had a cabin to myself for a night and the use of “water toys”, and Volcan Mombacho where I gained much respect from Managua prep school students for hiking up, while they took the bus. The 920 vertical meter climb to the top was so steep, that I almost beat the sputtering bus and got high fives from teenagers, a sweaty mid-day workout, and saved $10. The view from the top allowed for a look into the forested crater, home to howler monkeys and birds, and views of Granada, Laguna de Apoyo, and Lago de Nicaragua in the distance.
October 15
I set off from Granada to Isla de Ometepe, formed by Volcans Concepcion (1610 meters) and Maderas (1394 meters), an oasis of tranquility in Lago de Nicaragua, whose denizens it seems barely acknowledge the existence of mainland Nicaragua. Upon setting foot on the island, I immediately sign up for a guided hike up the looming cloud covered perfect cone of Volcan Concepcion for the next day. At 1610 meters Concepcion is almost always surrounded by clouds, continuously spews sulfur gas, and as recently as 2005 reminded Nicaraguans that its still active by
Granada
Cathedral and Volcan Mombacho sending ash 20 miles away on the mainland. Due to the slick loose rock covering the top half of the cone and my devil-may-care attitude about the minimal traction of my decaying shoes (remember Volcan Pacaya in Guatemala?) the 10 hour hike was the most difficult technical climbing I have done, since every step on the steep slope brought the possibility of slipping and sliding uncontrollable down the volcano. My experienced guide was also a university student in volcanology who like the average Nicaraguan is very passionate about baseball and politics, expressing much displeasure with the current “wine drinking” Sandinista government. The views from the top, although almost always hazy, comprised the villages and the surrounding patchwork of fields on the island, however as we hiked down, the clouds around the summit cleared and we were rewarded with a rare clear view of the top against a bright blue sky. Below the tree line we came across numerous groups of howler (larger-think linebacker), and white face (smarter-think physicist) monkeys, who watched us with as much curiosity as we did them. One more day was spent hiking around the flatter sections of the island, drinking red Fanta, of which I have
developed a mild addiction, and swimming in the formerly bull shark populated waters of Lago de Nicaragua (it was hunted almost to extinction in the 1970s, but is now making a comeback).
October 18
I reluctantly left the carefree ambiance of Isla de Ometepe for the next destination on the Gringo Trail, San Juan del Sur which was formerly just a fishing outpost on the Pacific Coast, but now is home to a tourist and expat influx, displayed by the string of beachfront restaurants serving overpriced burgers and Italian food. Home to beautiful white sand beaches and world class surfing, the shores around SJDS could be explored endlessly if time allowed. However before I mulled over investing in real estate too seriously, I limited myself to a couple nights in the lively town and one at a strange Gringo, hippy beach camp on Playa Maderas where I surfed (read, took repeated beatings from the ocean while trying to hold onto a longboard). I was happy just to stand up a few times, take in a great sunset over the Pacific, and watch the real surfers rip it on 10+ foot waves.
October 21
While fighting my
Granada
Pupusas grande y rica! desire to stay in Nicaragua forever with my inner need to do something productive, I left San Juan del Sur for Playa del Coco, Costa Rica to inquire about a scuba divemaster course, the real reason I came to this part of the world in the first place. Crossing the border with me, is a crew of six Aussies and Kiwis surfing the Pacific from LA to Panama equipped with an oversized blue Econoline 350, dubbed the ‘whale.’ They share their comical experiences of chasing surf with the Southern Hemisphere flair you would expect from carefree surfers, however missing from their stories is the interaction with locals and interior adventures in the region that I feel fortunate to have had. Once in Playa del Coco, I agreed to a three month divemaster internship with Rich Coast Diving and find a room to live, which is in a house shared with a Nicaraguan family. I find it somewhat humorous the concerns that people express about living with Nicaraguans here, but then I realize those people don’t know the generous and caring nature of Nicaraguans like I do. Really it has been a most comfortable living arrangement since we share a love
of Nicaragua but a frustration that it does not share the same prosperity as Costa Rica, despite having more beauty, resources, and friendly people. Also I quickly learned that my good favor towards my roommate’s home country and their national ‘comida tipica’ (typical food) gets me gallo pinto on occasion. Unfortunately after three weeks of me being here they moved out, meaning I will have to cook rice and beans for myself and find other means to practice my Spanish. The diving is great for the Pacific Ocean here in the Gulf of Papagayo though visibility is never like the Caribbean, but yet almost every day is found gliding among sting rays, eagle rays, sharks, eels, and tons of other fish. I am progressing with my requirements for the course at Rich Coast Diving which is a fairly young shop and is the busiest in the region giving me ample opportunity for practical experience. I am also riding the ebbs and flows of dive shop drama, mainly a result of machismo, a requirement of young male divers. As far as living in Costa Rica is concerned, I find it severely lacking in culture and possessing an overabundance of gringofication. Playa
del Coco looks more like Florida littered with unappealing condos, million dollar homes, and geriatric sun seekers walking their dogs. However despite the North American takeover of Costa Rica, it is a very friendly and happy place, in fact in July 2009 it was rated as the “happiest and greenest country in the world” by the New Economics Foundation, and if you don’t have a smile on your face, a friendly “pura vida” salutation will remind you there is no reason not to.
Well I finally stayed in one place long enough to finally be caught up on this journal, and I hope you have enjoyed!
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rwetzel
non-member comment
Una vez que usted encuentra un pupusa bueno, el palo consigo. Phil sabio.