Hanging in Santa Cruz


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Published: December 24th 2011
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Sr. Carlos, the owner of El Encanto, is a polymath. He's come a long way from the farmboy in El Salvador. He moved to Vancouver BC, worked as a chef and carpenter -- there's an unusual combination that he would later combine to build a hospedaje. Then he learned programming, systems engineering, and graphic design. Moving to Washington state, he worked as a technical translator. Somewhere along the line he lived in Merida, Yucatan, Mexico for 9 years studying art. Seven years ago he bought this land and transformed it into a garden with attached hotel and restaurant.

Ometepe reminds me of Pulau Pankor in Malaysia (which probably accounts for why we're here). The past is still clearly visible; tourism is nascent but not dominant. One difference: since Nicaragua's middle class is so small, there is little tourism by locals. The poor don't travel, the rich go to Miami or Buenos Aires. (And there are few if any rich folks on Ometepe.) Similarly they don't eat in restaurants, so almost everyone in every restaurant is a tourist, and many are owned by ex-pats.

Sr. Carlos says Panama, in contrast, does have a middle class, therefore a plethora of modest, inexpensive restaurants and hotels frequented by locals. I've learned a lot from him.


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This little dude grabbed onto Benjamin from the grass while we were wrestling, then stung him in the thigh.
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In front of our room. The lake is in the background.


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