Second Thoughts

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I must have been getting too comfortable, I must have let my guard down.... For the first time since I've been here, somebody tried to rob me! It's my first day in Granada and just as I was thinking I could fall in love with this colonial city by the lake, a guy rode by on a bike and tried to rip my bag right off my body as I was crossing the street. I grabbed it just in time. He broke the strap and rode away, but luckily I got to keep the bag. It's strange because I had just been walking down the street with this Nicaraguan woman who works at my hostel and she was warning me to be careful and I was thinking, here, in Granada, but it feels so safe.... Not anymore!

The worst part was that there was nothing I could do, no one around to help or sympathize. In shock and a bit shaken, I continued my walk down to the lake, but the ominous feeling continued. I saw a man throw a bottle at another man and woman, and then this crazy drunk guy started running toward me. I couldn't tell if he was after me, but I didn't want to take any chances so I started running too until I got to a place with more people. What the hell is going on here!!

It seems like Sundays in Central America are always a bit crazier than the rest of the week. I think its because there are more people out and about because no one has to work. And maybe because they're not working, it seems many of the men have a license to get as wasted as they want and just hang out or pass out on street corners. I've noticed this phenomenon in every country I've visited so far. It doesn't help that it's 97 degrees, and feels like a 110. Maybe I'll be cutting my stay in Granada short. It's a shame that I've gotten this first impression. I had heard so many wonderful things about this city. It is beautiful, maybe I'm just having a bad day. I guess I should consider myself lucky.

Anyways... I ended up staying two or three days in Leon. When the question comes, as it ineveitably does, should I stay or should I go now... It's always easier to stay. We arrived in Leon around sunset and Angela, Verna and I set off to look for a place to stay. The first two places listed in the Lonely Planet, aka the bible, were full. We eventually stumbled on Hostal La Clinica, which will probably be oustanding once its done being remodeled. Until then, however, it should be closed or condemned. This didn't stop us from staying there though.... We had to climb over construction materials to get anywhere and the staircase leading to our room was a deathtrap. Our balcony had no railing and we took showers in a partially completed bathroom with no ceiling and no showerhead. They just keep gettin better.... This might take the cake for the strangest shower experience yet! Luckily for us, our extremely long journey from San Salvador had left us exhausted and we slept despite the extreme heat.

We awoke early, and sweaty, the next morning with our first mission being to find another hostel. Before coffee, before breakfast, we began searching. Luckily, the first place we tried the night before now had a vacancy. We settled in, feeling like Queens in a castle after our experience the night before, and set out to explore. Leon is a vibrant city. Apparently it has always been the liberal heart of Nicaragua, as opposed to the more conservative Granda, and it has a young and exciting feel to it, thanks to the local university. It's also a very political city, due to the university and the country's tumultuous past. There are monuments and murals everywhere. One depicted a Sandanista stomping on Uncle Sam and another involved the CIA. It goes without saying that Nicaragua is not too crazy about the United States, or at least our politics. This came up later that night in a discussion with a local at a bar. As much as I love talking politics and hearing international views of the almighty America, I must admit I am a little tired of apologizing on behalf of our government. Western guilt, I think they call it. I feel a lot of it here in Nicaragua.

The other thing you see a lot of in Leon, is churches. We visited at least seven beautiful and notable ones, including the largest church in Central American and the oldest in Leon. They are all very different too, in architecture, style, even color. At one church, this strange guy came in and started asking us questions. It took me a minute to translate his slurred Spanish, but I think he was asking us who said we could enter the church. He went on to say the Father wasn't there and we shouldn't be either. Wierd, we thought, but we were done looking anyways so we left. We saw him once or twice more in the streets and I was trying to figure out if he was expecting money or what his deal was.... Eventually he sat down on the curb and we kept going. Just when we thought we were safe, and visiting another church in a more remote part of town, our crazy friend in the orange shirt appeared again, out of nowhere! The church is closed, he told us. I had guessed that from the massive padlocked doors. I told him so, and thanks. We were sufficiently freaked out, he wandered away again, and thankfully that was the last we saw of him. Now, that I think about it, I've had nothing but freaky experiences in Nicaragua! That's not exactly true, but is sure feels like it writing this now.... We visited the home of Ruben Dario, the most famous Latin American poet. We shopped a little in the markets and eventually wandered back to our hostal. An amazing band played that night and the bar was packed with both locals and tourists. What an improvement from the night before!

Angela and Verna left the next morning for Granada, but I decide to stay one more night. A really great hostel has a way of sucking you in. Everything you need or want is right at your fingertips. You never even have to leave the building if you don't want to and some people don't, which I never quite understand. I decided I needed a day away from the city so I visited the local beaches, Las Penitas and Peneloya. I was the only gringa on the bus. The beaches were beautiful, but very different from the ones I'm used to in Florida. There was black sand, massive rocks and the currents were rough. It was nice to get away though and of course, I met some locals on the beach who volunteered to buy me a beer and chat for a while. I find that every time I'm traveling and start to get a negative opinion about a place or a people, I meet someone to make me change my mind. Lester and Orlando are great guys, who were more than happy to ignore the turbulent history that exists between our countries, to just sit and chat. After a while, I said goodbye, took a little hike down the beach and caught a bus back to Leon. I spent one more night at the always swingin' Via Via, met two great guys from Cuba and Germany over breakfast this morning and jumped on a bus to Granada, via Managua.

I think this brings me up to date! I have about three and a half weeks left here... I can't believe how the time has flown! I have another week and a half or so to make it down to San Jose, Costa Rica, where I will be joined by Ryan. I can't wait!!!! Love to all.... Please take care and keep in touch!!

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