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Published: September 12th 2010
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From Las Ninas

One of the many things I love is a baby. I think I met one of the cutest babies Friday morning! As you will read in later in this blog, my Mom had a homebirth experience where she never actually met little baby Antonio. She contacted the midwife, Juana, to see if she could meet the baby and see the family again. Juana had been visiting this family and bathing the mother and baby for seven days since Antonio had been born and Friday was the eighth and final day. This day is called “The Last Bath”. She invited Mom to meet the baby on this day and Mom invited me.

The family lived in a concrete house with a metal roof and from what I could see, it was small and dirty. They showed us to the bedroom, which had two beds, one with a mattress and one without a mattress. Juana bathed the mom first, which we did not see, while Mom talked to Antonio (the Dad). We sat there for a while, talking, sweating, and yawning (the work of Antonio Jr.).

Finally Juana and Natalia (the Mom) came back into the room
The PrayersThe PrayersThe Prayers

Lighting the candles for the prayer. The midwives here offer health education, family counseling and pastoral care.
with a pot of boiled water and a pot of cold water. Juana poured the hot and cold water into a big bowl until it was just right. Then the Dad went to get a bar of soap while Juana opened a little cloth which contained rose petals and leaves. She put the petals into the water and then tore up the leaves that joined the rose petals. This rose water was supposed to calm the baby. When the Dad returned with the soap, Juana got Antonio. She undressed him and started to wash him. He screamed the whole time so I think the rose water is supposed to kick in after being washed.

When she was done washing him, they dressed him in what looked like a very comfortable knitted sweater and sweatpants. They wrapped him in a soft blanket. The Dad pulled out a few small candles and lit them. Juana, still holding Antonio, knelt in front of the candles and said a prayer, thanking God for both Antonio and Natalia in Tz’utihil and Spanish.

Once that was over, there were a lot of congratulations, and we left. I really think the Mayans are on to
San PedroSan PedroSan Pedro

The first morning after the rains.
something because Antonio was really calm after the bath! I wonder if we were bathed in rose water as babies we would be calmer people? Maybe so. I know for sure that that was an experience most people have not had and one I will never forget.

Joy

From Kiran and the Hospitalito

The translation for Hospitalito is “little hospital”. It is little indeed yet I continue to be amazed at the complexity of health issues that are seen in this little place and feel the daily impact of good rural health care.
The last 2 weeks have been much busier for me as the only Obstetrician in the area. Last weekend a low pressure system brought longer and heavier rain than usual. Our small town lost power and many of the surrounding roads were closed due to mudslides or swollen rivers. Saturday morning we did a C/S on generator power not knowing how much fuel we had left in the generator. The nurse kept telling us to “hurry” !

Meanwhile a young healthy non pregnant patient who was also under my care needed transportation to another larger hospital because of severe bleeding and anemia. We
Laundry DayLaundry DayLaundry Day

Joy and Leigh laundering the Guatemalan way.
faced the potential of her bleeding to death under our care as the roads were closed/blocked in all directions. Do we operate with the power out and no blood bank? Do we keep her and watch her and hope she doesn’t bleed to death? As we pondered our options in the dark, we received word that one road was open and away to the big city she went - 6 hours away.

The Home Birth

In my month here, I have helped with a number of births, both natural and C-sections. Nine days ago, I had the opportunity to spend the night observing the work of one of the local midwives. I asked for this opportunity as the vast majority of births here are attended at home by lay midwives.

Juana, is 47 and is the president of the local midwives. I left with her from the Hospitalito around 5 pm and we went to the home of a woman that was in labor with her 8th child. We sat and sat, and talked and talked, and I listened to her intense and often emotional conversation with the mother-in-law of the patient (in Tzu-tu hil ). Juana
Making BraceletsMaking BraceletsMaking Bracelets

Both Joy and Leigh learned to make Guatemalan bracelets this week. Here is Leigh with her teacher, Elvira
would intermittently share with me stories about her life and work as we compared tricks of the trade. The patient remained completely silent, alternately standing and sitting. She finally drank some herbal tea laced with a shot of white liquor and around midnight fell off to sleep.

The midwife and family offered me a blanket and Juana and I snuggled to stay warm on a hard wooden slat bed. I slept some but mainly lay awake listening to the snores of the mother-in-law, thinking a lot about the comforts of home, beds, blankets, mattresses, big houses, and grassy lawns. At 6 am I walked back home to prepare for a day of school and work. The patient had rested well and her contractions began again bringing forth Baby Antonio (all 9 pounds of him) at 6pm that evening. Juana never left her side.

Life in Santiago Atitlan

We have completed one full month of Spanish language school. We are growing in confidence and decreasing in fatigue as we more easily understand our teachers. The girls have learned how to make beaded bracelets this week and continue to make strides in their speaking and comprehension.

This coming
Rainy Day ActivitesRainy Day ActivitesRainy Day Activites

You gotta get creative after a few days of rain. (Chloe, Kiran and Joy)
week we will cross the lake to a small pueblo called San Juan to have a 3 day home stay. We will stay with my teacher’s family. Our goal is learn more of the day-to-day lives of the people here. We will make tortillas, eat traditional food, learn a bit of weaving, hike around one of the volcanoes there and who knows what else.

At home we continue to shop in the markets and eat delicious fresh fruits and veggies. We even found peanuts and chocolate this week. We wash our clothes by hand and with the precious few hours of daily sunlight, washing clothes becomes the work of all when we awaken to a sunny morning.

My eyes continue to open in new ways to the poverty and hardships of the people here. Our 20 minute walk to town is littered with mounds of trash, sleeping stray dogs, dirty kids hanging out of the doorways and many small concrete shacks with clothes hanging to dry on the bushes outside. From these small houses, smoke often escapes from a small hole in the wall. Fires are the main source of heat to cook the corn tortillas and for
Rain, Sleet or SnowRain, Sleet or SnowRain, Sleet or Snow

Down here, babies even come at night and in the midst of hard rains.
many families this is 80%!o(MISSING)f their daily diet (cheap and filling). Chronic respiratory diseases (due to smoke) are more common than diabetes and hypertension, as obesity (the main cause of these) is rare.

The closed roads, the fear of mudslides, tropical storms and earthquakes all makes these simple homes and this entire country very vulnerable. Leigh has dreamed about volcanoes erupting, flying cows and spiders jumping from the volcano into the lake. Mark has dreamed about us being separated on a train in Istanbul and having to jump the train with all of our luggage. Joy has dreamed about being in Italy with friends and I have dreamed about washing machines and dryers - messages from our not so subtle unconscious.

Our Extended Circle of Friends

Lest you think that we are only befriending two-legged creatures, we close with a quick survey of other community members. Consult the photos for the full effect. There is:
Franklin, the large toad that jumps out of our way on the way to school.
Henrietta, the humming bird that often dance around outside our windows.
Sammy, the scorpion that I turned to see on the bedroom wall just after tucking
Post-CallPost-CallPost-Call

On a few occasions, Kiran needed a little help getting up after a long night.
the girls in to bed.
Bill, the crab waiting at our back door when we came home from school.
Archie, the large wolfe spider Leigh picked up by accident thinking it was a thread on her brown sweater.

In Closing

Three weeks from today we hope to be en route to Cuba. The exact way we will get there continues to shift and change like a good corn maze in the fall. It looks like it will include a few unplanned days in Cancun and then flying from there to Havana. The travel company that was helping us decided that flying from Miami was no longer an option. All will be revealed in due time.

We love to read news from friends and family. We thank you for your interest in our year away. Much love from us all- Kiran, Mark, Joy and Leigh






Additional photos below
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ArchieArchie
Archie

Archie, along with his many brothers and sisters, make frequent appearances. We've learned to share even our corn flakes.
SammySammy
Sammy

Sammy too was tired of the rain and sought refuge in our bedroom. With most of our animal friends, we co-exist nicely, but some pose quite a threat. We've been told that a scorpian sting is a bad scene. So, Sammy had to go, and I don't mean outside.
BillBill
Bill

Bill wandered up from the lake to greet us outside our door one afternoon.
Titus With The RecordTitus With The Record
Titus With The Record

We're calling Guiness. Titus is Chloe's brother.
In ProcessIn Process
In Process

Leigh's first bracelet.
Agua AltaAgua Alta
Agua Alta

With all the rain, the lake is rising to destructive levels. Many crops and homes have been flooded.
DinnerDinner
Dinner

Leigh found this on a walk to the Lake with her Spanish teacher. Her teacher was excited about adding it to the evening menu.
Mom Is LoveMom Is Love
Mom Is Love

Written on the wall near where Antonio was born.
La ComadronaLa Comadrona
La Comadrona

Juana, the midwife, with baby Antonio and a rose petal bath
Iglesia CatolicaIglesia Catolica
Iglesia Catolica

We joined our friends for the Catholic service last Sunday.


12th September 2010

Buen mensaje!
Beautiful stories! You people are amazing. Can't wait to see you in Matanzas. Raining here, but no floods, all roads are open. No critters in our cornflakes. Can't make the spoons stick. Lots to learn. Hasta pronto!
12th September 2010

Life
You're giving us a look at life lived at the essence. Good lessons. Thanks be to God, Sue
12th September 2010

I identify
what a great visit with special information. as you know i light a candle for you each day as i begin my day and i also take a rose petal bath each day. i just recently refreshed my rose petals and now antonio and I can relish the same benefits. Leigh know that on the 14th I will let my candle burn all day for your birthday and remember those snuggles from car seat days. i love each one of you more than i can say amos, amare, amant.
12th September 2010

Love the blogs!
dear Kiran, Mark, Joy and Leigh! Great blog you guys. I love the pictures of all the wildlife and the description of the rosepetal bath and all the other things I learned about your life in Guatemala. Sorry it has rained so much, but you guys seem to be able to stay on the bright side. Thanks for sharing. love, May
13th September 2010

what a special time in guatemala
Wow, I just gave myself the luxury of sitting down and reading all the entries of your family blog at once. I´m excited for you and my heart is so full with your photos and stories. Greg and I spent two months in Guatemala 16 years ago and so many of the sights and smells and markets and creatures you are sharing remind me of that time. The hospital stories and last bath are incredible. And we Walker Wilsons can surely share with you in your language learning moments of pride, exhaustion, growing comprehension, plateaus, and amazement that there are so many languages and so many different words and meanings in each of them. Caleb is now reading novels in literature class in spanish...and listening to both our kids play with friends in spanish (and correct my pronunciation or grammatical errors on occasion) is so cool. We relate to the central role of laundry in one's life in the South--with the many days of drying needed putting off one´s washing for a day or two could lead to no clothing left; to the abundant fruits and veggies beyond anything WNC could offer us fresh or imported; and the deep respect for courageous local folks living richly with so little but also, at times, suffering mightily. Mud. Critters climbing the walls. Tummy troubles. And extreme natural beauty are things we´ve shared too this past year. But Caleb and Ascher who go on a long, long school bus ride every day in private school uniforms with coat and tie will be super envious to imagine your hammock life and tutoring schedule that ends at noon each day (they leave our apt bldg at 6:20am and get home to it around 5pm...the price one pays for going to a good school in a city of 8 million). They will smile at the dirt soccer field you posted which looks very much like the soccer fields of Sincelejo and many of Bogota too. Imagine how playing soccer in that mud fits with the laundry by hand thing? We have prayed for each of you with word of Larry´s death and Ascher and Caleb were really thinking of you grieving his passing so far from home. Somehow our dog, Shiloh, who now lives with my mom, is often a lightening rod for moments of our homesickness...easier to let it flow in response to missing one´s dog than other things harder to identify and name. The blasting evangelical nightly praise (and here, at least, fear and trembling of God) sounds are super familiar too. Though we attend an incredible mennonite housechurch now with music we adore. I hope your homestay is wonderful and that the transition on to Cuba is smooth and joyful. It´ll be like a homecoming in so many ways. Bless your time together as a family and the slower pace of life you can claim right now. Bless birthings and healing hands in the hospitalito and in the campo too. Bless your conjugations and may God especially bless your forays into subjunctive and pluscuamperfecto and other grammatical hurdles :) We are eager to read more and inspired by your offerings here to find the freedom to blog somehow from here too. Love to all four of you, Susanne (Greg, Caleb and Ascher too)
14th September 2010

Joy is becoming quite the story teller. What a gift she has for sharing what she is living. I love reading about the rituals and culture you are experiencing. It is SO rich. I have contacted Joyce and she is working on our trip but haven't heard any details yet. Sorry we missed the Skype session last Sunday. Jack and I were returning from a tennis tournament in Greensboro. tell Joy that when we went to the church retreat that Graham commented that he wished Joy could be there.
15th September 2010

Happy Birthday Leigh!
Leigh - I hope you're having a very special today - what do they do for birthdays there? Thanks for keeping us entertained with your tales in your blog - I look forward to reading them. Miss you all, Lynne
15th September 2010

blog
You remind me that, in India, we learned to shake out our shoes every morning before putting them on. A previous blog mentioned lizards. We had a lot of those (actually not a lot at once) but saw them frequently on our walls in Pakistan and everybody just ignored them as they ate insects. Kiran, I sympathize with some of your situations even though I've never worked in such conditions, but when we got bad emergencies in Murphy, one of the first things we did was to look outside to see if it was too foggy for helicopter transport or too icy for long ambulance transfers if we didn't have the personnel, equipment etc.. Sometimes we just had to treat the pain and the family but not the real problem. Be good to yourselves. Love, Lee
19th September 2010

Hey!
Hey to Everyone--including Franklin, Archie, Sammy and Bill and whomever turns up next! It's fun to read your stories and see all the pictures. Thanks for sharing. I am just wanting to check in and confirm what we are supposed to bring for you all. Jeanine is meeting us tonight with the most recent book from the Hunger Games series. I thought there was something else, but I can't remember. Was there something else? Also, I'm sad to hear that your arrival in Cuba is being delayed. I hope I still get to see you. I leave Cuba on the 6th. Stan will have the book and whatever else you request, so not to worry about that. Any ideas when your arrival is? We leave for Miami next Saturday and then to Havana on Sunday. We may or may not have access to email after we leave Asheville. We remember you with love, Kim
9th October 2010

Stung
I was stung by a scorpian in Texas and it is VERY painful! Don't do it! You all are so brave! Take care, Sharon

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