Livingston.


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Published: August 12th 2008
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Livingston, same day.
It took just about one hour and 30 min. to Livingston and here at the ferry dock it is a busy but gay affair, people getting off and greeting waiting relatives and friends, goods being unloaded and other people waiting patiently to board the ferry for the return trip to Puerto Barrios.
Naerly everybody here is pitch black - the Black Carib or Garifuna as they call themselves - so we, the two "rednecks" stand out in this crowd, people approach us asking we need accommodation but Maria tells them off and taking my arm possessively - I remember that habit from Puerto Barrios - drags me through the crowd with poor James in tow carrying the two suitcases and the Abuelita waggling along on her short fat legs telling James repeatedly to be careful with her suitcases.
Among groves of coconut palms we reach the abuelita's house, a stone house with corrugated roof and only three room. She tells us the room will set us back 10 Quetzales but she will cook for us for free.
The room actually belongs to her two grand daughters but they'll sleep in the main living-room together with her.
Maria boils us coffee and introducing us to her two nieces - both of them young beautiful women in their early twenties - giving us a bit of info on Livingston.
Apperently these very dark skinned people were New World slaves who escaped/shipwrecked intermarrying with Maya people and shipwrecked sailor creating their very own culture and language, incorporaing European, Mayan and African elements.
We listen to her with vivit attention while slowly drinking her strong black coffee.
While James does his best to charm the two nieces, Maria takes my fingertops whispering if I wanna go for a walk around the village with her.
We walk under coconut trees, along a street lined by wooden huts, gaily painted wooden houses, small restaurants, we pass people who speak the musical english of Belize and perfect spanish greeting us politely with Maria making the usual introductions, I shake many black hands.
Everything here is really laid-back, I've no doubt me and James will have some relaxing days in this tranquil place.

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