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Published: February 22nd 2015
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Friday 13th February, 2015. St George's Grenada
St George's is the capital of Grenada. The city is surrounded by a hillside of an old volcano crater and is on a horseshoe-shaped harbour called The Carenage. Grenada is known as the "Island of Spice" and its main exports are cocoa bean cacao, nutmeg and mace. It has a tropical climate that ensures the success of spice production. Nutmegs are the most plentiful crop, followed by an array of spices such as mace, cloves, vanilla, cinnamon and ginger.
Pati and Roy were booked on a tour so D and I decided to go to Fort George which is something we had never done before. We walked into town, and after asking a friendly policeman, were directed to an ATM. The fort was at the top of a steep hill and there was no waay M was going to yomp up there only to find that we handn't got enough dosh to get in! We climbed the hill by means of a mixture of steps and a steep slope. We paid our $5 entrance fee and went inside.
in 1877, Grenada became a Crown Colony and in 1967 it became an
associated state within the British Commonwealth. Grenada, Carriacou and Petit Martinique became an independent nation on February 7th 1974.
After independence the GULP (Grenada United Union Party) swept to power led by onetime trade union leader Eric Gairy who became Grenada's first PM. His regime was notorious for patronage and corruption. Iy used secret police to silence criticism, often involving thugs called the Mongoose Gang who brutally attacked anti-government critics and robbed private property. Gairy's popular support evaporated as his regime became increasingly dictatorial. On March 13th 1979, while Gairy was overseas,a band or armed rebels supported by the NJM (New Jewel Movement) led a bloodless coup. Maurice Bishop , head of the NJM, became PM of the new Peoples Revolutionary Government (PRG) regime. This charismatic lawyer reinstated human rights and promised to solve the country's economic problems. Although he was popular with the Grenadans his socialist leanings didn't sit well with the USA and Barbados.
Bishop built schools, medical facilityies and created farmers unions and co-operatives. Ostracized by the West, Bishop turned to Cuba for aid. The Cuban built the airport and opened the island up internationally. However divisions developed within the PRG resulting in his overthrow
in 1983. He was placed on house arrest. On October 19th the largest spontaneous crowd ever gathered in Grenada and forced his release. Together they marched to Fort George where the military opened fire killing ssome 40 protesters. Bishop and several of his followers were taken prisoner sn summarily executed in the courtyard of the fort.
We stood in the courtyard and looked at the plaque which was erected on 19th October 1993 and reads "In everlasting memory of Prime Minister Maurice Bishop (and a list of 15 others) Killed at this fort on 19th October 1983. They have gone to join the stars and will forever shine in glory"
After the turmoil the US President Reagan managed to gain support from some other Caribbean Nations to support a US Invasion. American troops landed on Ocober 25th with a few soldiers from half a dozen Caribbean states. 70 Cubans, 42 Americans and 170 Grenadans were killed in the fighting. Most of the US forces withdrew in December although a joint Caribbean force and 300 US support troops remained on the island for another two more years. This was the beginning of the end of the Cold War. M
was absolutely facinated by all this. It happened when she was in her early twenties and she couldn't remember anything about any of it!
We met Graham and Jane (Van Gogh) at the fort and chatted to them about all this history and then we made our way down some steps to the waterfront at Carenage Bay. This waterfront is known as "The Carenage". We strolled along and then made our way back to the steps up to the fort and took some refreshment. We walked through the tunnel under the hill on which stands the fort and made our way back to the ship for lunch.
In the afternoon we met up with Roy and Pati and the 4 of us took the local bus (No 1) to Grand Anse beach. We sat at the end where all the locals hung out. This is Grenada's most popular beach and is broad and long wit beautiful fine white sand. D and Roy went for a swim while M and Pati sat in the shade of a large tree. Despite a few showers it was a lovely afternoon. We caught the bus back to St Georges, stocked up on
supplies and made our way to a bar called "The Really Cool Sports Bar" which is right opposite the Cruise Terminal and offered Wi-Fi. We had a few rounds of drinks and went online. D and M were about to change their mind about Grenada until the bill arrived. What a rip off - nearly $70 US! Note to all travellers DO NOT USE THIS BAR unless you want to get fleeced!
Dinner tonight was on the Captain's table. This meant that Roy and Pati could join the 6 of us for dinner. The table for 8 looked a bit contrite and said that they would swop tables for the rest of the trip. No show tonight but tomorrow is our last stop in the Caribbean - and our favourite -Barbados.
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