Blogs from Perquín, Eastern, El Salvador, Central America Caribbean


So how do you guys feel about a history lesson today? Well, you'd better be up for it because it's coming! But don't worry, it's a very simplified version (and hopefully accurate)... Going back as far as the 19th century, the gap between the rich minority and the poor communities in El Salvador was vast. The rich in power were very busy trying to make sure things stayed that way and the poor weren't too chuffed about it. This caused tension in the country for a long time, including what was called “The Massacre” of 1932, when 30000 opposing the government got killed by death squads. So the civil war had been brewing for many years when it finally broke out. By the end of the 70s, several left-wing guerilla groups joined forces to form a ... read more

Central America Caribbean » El Salvador » Eastern » Perquín February 23rd 2011

We were less than impressed as we entered San Salvador after a long bus trip from the other side of Guatemala. The level of litter, always about in Central America, seemed to increase as we neared the capital and I guess it was fortunate that nightfall came before we had to come to grips with the look of the capital itself. The Tica Bus delivered us to its base. Typically for here, the bus was backed into a small compound with good, strong steel doors topped with razor wire. We had found a hotel that looked reasonable not too far away but the only taxi in evidence on a very dark street had an occupant. All of the advice is not to walk around this city after dark so we weren't going far without finding a ... read more
Another Travel Day
San Salvador Street
Alegria Shop Entry

Central America Caribbean » El Salvador » Eastern » Perquín February 20th 2011

Perfect timing was to be our bag for the next day. We slept in a bit, then stuffed around a bit getting organised to leave. As we left the hostel we asked what time the bus would be coming past – there was only a couple a day, and we didn't want to wait until the afternoon. I had asked someone the day before, and they had concurred with the, now increasingly unreliable, Lonely Planet – the bus should come in about 9. “El autobus? Esta alli” she said as she pointed out the bus just about to leave from near the plaza. Happily they didn't seem to be in too much of a hurry and were happy to wait for four backpackers to crowd in with their stuff. From Alegría we headed on into the ... read more
Near Alegría, El Salvador
Coffee plantations near Alegría, El Salvador
Hills near Alegría, El Salvador

(Day 866 on the road)OK, first things first: I have booked my flight home for the end of October. Puh! It might not sound like much, but it is a big, no, a huge deal for me. Making plans to go home was one of the very last things on my mind for the past two and a half years. Of course I knew the day would arrive eventually, but I didn't image just how much the simple act of booking a flight home (Panama City-Miami-Dusseldorf on October 31st) would affect me mentally. Now I have about two and a half months left on this journey that has become my life. Long by some standards, no time at all when you consider it from my point of view. Anyway, Kristina and Tino are getting married at ... read more
Lonely tree in the fog at Laguna de Alegria
Memorial of the El Mozote massacre
Grass hopper eating bananas near Alegria

¨That´s exactly why we had the war. For freedom of expression, for democracy, for the rights of the people, of the farmers and of the Earth.¨ He spoke passionately but I could tell it was not the first time he´d said the words. I was speaking with Don Miguel, the owner of our hostel who, along with most of the other citizens of Perquín and, indeed, the whole state of Morazán, had repopulated the abandoned mountainsides. The whole region had been a war zone little more than a decade earlier but already you can hardly tell. Looking around town there are only shy, smiling faces to be found. Its hard to believe that within many of these people´s lives, whole towns were massacred a few miles away. As the night sets in so does the fog, ... read more
Marco and Baby: A glamour shot
Don't mind the livestock..
This was almost the last photo Marco ever took.

Leaving Nicaragua, we got a bus to the Honduran border which was easy to cross. We had to walk to the other side of the border, crossing military men holding guns. There we waited for a mini-bus to take us to a bus station in Honduras where we could travel the PanAmerican Highway to the El Salvador border. We had to take rickshaws (looks like a red 3-wheeled golf cart) to our next destination where we were stopped a few times to have our passports checked. We arrived to Santa Rosa de Lima, El Salvador where we got small rooms with a bed and hammock. The following day we headed to Perquin, El Salvador where we had quickly learned that although many Nicaraguans try to scam you to pay more money than you are supposed to, ... read more
Cattle Traffic
Mozote Church
Building Mural

Central America Caribbean » El Salvador » Eastern » Perquín February 15th 2009

At the bus station in San Miguel, we were told by bus drivers the next bus to Perquin is at 10am so we have a few hours to kill then a young lady grabbed my arm and told me it was a lie and that in 10 minutes a bus will pull up, and indeed it happened, so we hopped on the very crowded bus, pedro sitting next to the pretty young lady who befriended us. The bus ride was long took about 3 hours to get there and quite slow on the way uphill, Joey was frustrated! Arriving in town we looked for the hostel Perquin Real but no one we asked can point us to the right direction so we decided to go where they said is another hostel, we followed the directions but ... read more

Central America Caribbean » El Salvador » Eastern » Perquín December 8th 2008

What a brutal travel day.. We woke up at 5AM today to catch our first bus to the town of La Esperanza. There was only one bus a day so we were there early to catch it.. but we could have slept in. The bus arrived at 5AM but didn't depart until after 5:30. The bus was a newer one, Japanese microbus and nice as I finally had enough legroom. The road turned out to be good for most of the way as well; it is paved almost all the way to San Juan now and for a good distance to La Esperanza. There was evil fog as we climbed the hills east of Gracias but this soon burned off as the sun rose. Great scenery, lots of pine forests and medium sized hills. We arrived ... read more
Dusty ride
Overheating taxi
Local boy

Central America Caribbean » El Salvador » Eastern » Perquín November 29th 2008

... or Gorilla War according to the museum! Tim Version: * Took a colectivo from Gotera to Perquin - my first one! Stayed in an average hostel. * Looked around town and the museum - a little disappointed and sad! The version I wish I didn´t have to write a big negatively, but its the only truthful way: Perquin! Famed Perquin! Or at least it is if you are heading to El Salvador. A hotbed and control point of the rebel geurillas of the FMLN, its where the museums in San Salvador and elsewhere tell you to go if you want to see the real thing! I´d also heard of many other travellers going there and coming back saying its well worth a visit! Well, it is, but my reasons I think are a bit different ... read more
War influenced murals
Paz all around
A natural little spider cave

Central America Caribbean » El Salvador » Eastern » Perquín October 20th 2008

Hello again, I´m back. Currently having a day of rest after my birthday yesterday, so I guess now is a good time to polish off my tales of El Salvador. I believe when I left you last I was in Playa El Tunco, so let´s go from there. San Salvador From El Tunco, I headed to San Salvador, to see El Salvador play against Surinam in a world cup qualifier. I got a lift there with Jose, who owns the hostel I stayed at in El Tunco. It turns out he´s a bit of an ACDC fan, so we flew up the road blasting that out. Although I´m not quite sure he appreciated the irony of playing Highway to Hell on the way to one of the supposedly most dangerous cities in the world. I certainly ... read more
San Salvador cathedral
San Salvador

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