Get here soon before the dreaded tour buses come

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What a surprise and delight El Salvador has been! When I planned this trip I thought many times about adding El Salvador. It has a reputation for being very dangerous. what I have found is a peaceful country, lovely people, swet little villages and one of hte most beutiful hotels I've ever experienced in over 30 years of traveling.
I did heed many warnings from family and friends and decided to book a tour rather than do the collectivo vans and buses by myself. ( I can be up for an adventure but I'm not crazy). Turns out I am on a private tour. But it is good because they basically get me to a town and leave me on my own to explore. fhe first day was in the little colonial village of Suchitoto. It is what Antiqua, Guatemala and Granada, Nicaragua were before it was 'discovered' by tourists and unkempt looking students in torn t-shirts and flip-flops- read that as overrun. I saw only one other possibly American student- but he could have been European- not sure.
The town square is being completely redone. I sat at a small restaurant watching about 20 guys take down a shiny aluminum fence and then put it back up again. The entire square was roped off with stacks of beigey colored paving stones ready to be installed. On the opposite end of the square was a tall white church built around 1700's. It was dark inside and full of small altars each with a statue dressed in a bright colored material. There were lots of signs up asking people 'not to chat in church' or ' respect the house of the Lord ' and ' no flash photography allowed'. Sometimes it isn't good to understand all that Spanish as I so wanted to take some photos.
I was in need of yet another straw sun hat. I've already lost 2 hats on this trip. This time I wanted one that tied under my chin and wouldn't be blown away in the wind. An old man was sitting on the corner with a plethora of hats strewn out on the pavement. Bonanza! I found one that fit and not knowing the words for ' tie under my chin', I did an elaborate game of charades entertaining all the other guys and ladies sitting nearby. "Pongo!" he shouted. Then he started to unwrap knot after knot on his plastic sack of goods. He selected one strip of woven cotton, threaded it through the straw,Tand Voila! a new hat with ties. $3!
The hotel, Los Almendros, can best be described as a living art gallery. It is a 200 year old colonial manor. Suchitoto was a stronghold of the rebels and most of the people left the town and never came back. It is now a UNESCO Patrimony town so none of the buildings came be changed on the outside. This hotel is owned by a French couple. Every inch is a beautiful still life. The art work, fountains, flower petals strewn in water basins, flower arrangements, sculptures and plantings are all artiscally arranged. Exquisite and stunning are words that don't do it justice. At night there are candles lit throughout the grounds. Down by the pool three large trees are wound with small blue lights which reflect into the pool. I loved every minute I was there. When I left they presented me with a gift of a fan especially inscribed with the name of the hotel.
I would encourage anyone looking for a lovely retreat to find this place.
Today , I am in a small village of artists called La Palma. It is up near the Honduran border. I go from shop to shop admiring all the art work. Lovely...
Carolyn

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