Blogs from Cuba, Central America Caribbean - page 78

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Central America Caribbean » Cuba » Oeste » La Habana September 21st 2008

During the three weeks we spent in Havana, James and I walked virtually the length and breadth of the city - somedays exploring on foot for over five hours (all the football matches are really paying off and my knee has been holding up nicely). Apart from the fact that it costs nothing, walking is the ONLY way to truly get to know a place; to scratch under the surface and glimpse at snippets of daily life behind the gloss of tourism. It's funny how routines can be monotonous, boring and tiresome when they are your own, yet fascinating and insightful when someone else's! Havana consists of a number of 'municipios' (boroghs), each with its own character, style and rhythm. The main areas we have explored are Habana Vieja and Vedado, plus (to a lesser extent) ... read more

Central America Caribbean » Cuba » Este » Baracoa September 20th 2008

Baracoa, one of the most heavily hurricane hit places in Cuba. We werent even sure if we would be able to travel here. Not so much if the road would be open, but if there would be services for tourists, would we just be getting in the way, or putting money into a region that needs it? We´d heard varying reports ranging from ¨yeah fine no problems¨ through to ¨its a disaster zone, stay away¨. It turns out that while we werent the first tourists to go back to Baracoa, we werent far off, its still a disaster zone, some places dont have power and water still, but the centre of town is up and running again, and welcoming us with open arms (thinking of those tourist dollars of course!!!) Colin got a ride in another ... read more
Baracoa
Push bike and side chair
Crossing the estuary

Central America Caribbean » Cuba » Este » Baracoa September 20th 2008

These pictures were taken by a host of ours in Santiago, Dr Pedro A Lobaina Delfino. Please do not reproduce them without permission. He was in Baracoa shortly after the second hurricane, Ike, hit to help his mother and her neighbours.... read more
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Central America Caribbean » Cuba » Este » Santiago de Cuba September 18th 2008

Santiago de Cuba...home of the best Cuban music...but could we find any?! We were met off the bus from Trinidad by a hospitality club contact, Lianne, who had found us a lovely casa particular a few minutes walk from the centre of the old historic district of Santiago. We had to clamber up a small spiral staircase, with our packs, to get to our room. Getting up was way easier than when we tried to come back down again a few days later! Our first ride in a classic old car was to the casa in a 1948 Dodge with suicide doors in the rear. As battered as they come, but still working just fine. We met up with Lianne every night that we were there. We didnt hit the clubs or anything - those who ... read more
El Morro
Looking across the bay from the fort
Colin and his taxi

Central America Caribbean » Cuba » Centro » Trinidad September 14th 2008

The panorama above is other Valle de los Ingenios (or the valley of the sugar mills). So we finally made it out of Havana. It took a while, and a lot of hassle, going out to the bus station, being more pushy than we like to try and get answers instead of a "try again tomorrow". Funny how when you ask more firmly, suddenly there are buses leaving! The last couple of days in Havana dragged a bit as things were still slow in opening. We wandered the massive and deserted Plaza de la Revolucion with the outline of Che Guevara on the outside of the Ministry of the Interior and the huge monument to Jose Marti. It seems such a waste of money building huge monuments like that when there are people struggling to survive. ... read more
The Necropolis, Havana
Necropolis, Havana
The view from Helen and Alfredos apartment

Central America Caribbean » Cuba » Oeste » La Habana September 9th 2008

Ah...Cuba at last...we´ve been wanting to come here for ages. And as soon as we do, we get stuck in the city, unable to escape, unable to anything really. Well, serves us right really, we knew it was the end of the hurricane season, and this year has been a bad one. The first afternoon and the following morning were fine. Very hot and sticky though. We found ourselves a nice casa particular and settled in. The first afternoon / evening we just wandered around the local area ¨Habana Vieja¨and ¨Centro Habana¨. Down the Prado to the Malecon and the ocean, through narrow streets back up to the Capitolio. Just trying to take in as much as we could, the old colonial buildings, some restored and some definitely not, the people, friendly and unthreatening, and of ... read more
Boats pulled up into the streets ready for the hurricane
Castillo de los Tres Reyes del Morro from the Malecon
Street scene in Central Havana

Central America Caribbean » Cuba September 8th 2008

I don't think it's easy for people of my generation to view Cuba with equanimity. After all, when I was 15 years old, I had good reason to believe Fidel Castro's tiny island might ignite a nuclear war. I am, of course, referring to the 1962 confrontation between the United States and Russia, known as the Cuban Missile Crisis, where John F. Kennedy went mano a mano with Nikita Krushchev, and, without exaggeration, the fate of the world hung in the balance. At least it felt that way. I don't have many memories of that year, but one of the most vivid was attending a New York Giants-Washington Redskins game with my brother, at Yankee Stadium, on Sunday, October 28th, and hearing an earth-shattering cheer when announcer Bob Sheppard interrupted the game to inform us ... read more
The Rabbi at Adat Israel
Dinner at the synagogue
Entrance to the cemetery

Central America Caribbean » Cuba September 5th 2008

Under the cover of dusk, 2 impending revolutionaries landed to begin their recconnaisance mission. There were rumours that here, existed a place of top carribean music, unlimited rum, free thinking, and where Ladas came to live out their remaining years in style. Habana could be described as majestic, or run-down in a post WW2 kinda way. Either way there was the charm of following your ears, and ending up in a bar with good live music, where the cubre-libres and mohjitos flowed, and where the chicken in your meal was guaranteed to be refried at least twice. Everyone in Habana was so friendly towards us. Every guy we passed offered us cigars, chicas, and was really willing to introduce us to some popular revolutionary named Charlie. At night all of the girls couldn´t keep their eyes ... read more
Truck from Revoultion
Propaganda
Cannon Ceremony

Central America Caribbean » Cuba » Oeste » La Habana September 2nd 2008

Cinemas are pretty popular in Havana and there are a good number dotted around the place. The Charlie Chaplin cinema is in Vedado on Calle 23 between 10 and 12, and just around the corner from where we are staying. It has an arty feel - a few stunning black and white photographs of classic Cuban cinematography graced minimal white walls in the foyer and the boho crowd wouldn't have looked out of place in New York or London with their ethnic scarfs and bangles and manbags and slanted haircuts. Fairly unassuming from the outside, we were stunned when we walked into a massive auditorium. At a rough guestimate, I'd say it could hold over a thousand at full capacity. A couple of hundred turned up to see the evening's showing of 'Pushpak' as part of ... read more

Central America Caribbean » Cuba » Oeste » La Habana September 2nd 2008

Those of you who know my father will know that he is a self-made professor of history. On learning that Jess and I were headed to Cuba, he produces an old letter from a haphazard filing system in the back room where all the old photos, letters, poems, songs and all sorts of other things are kept. The letter was dated 7th January 1949 with an address in Havana, and was written by Ellen McGrath De Galban, a cousin, to my grandmother. So Jess and I were to become detectives for a day in Cuba. Dirty work but someone's got to do it. We headed first to the local graveyard to see what the dead might reveal to the living. The Necropolis de Colon is no ordinary graveyard, we're talking gianormous! Tombs line every avenue across ... read more




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