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Published: December 28th 2014
Havana
Anyone for a cigar?Our first impression of Havana was one of faded glory - a beautiful colonial city with an abundance of restored and crumbling buildings. As we strolled around the old city, everywhere you looked there were brightly-painted vintage cars and brightly coloured ‘larger ladies’ with huge cigars in their mouth. In addition on every street corner you could hear the vibrant sounds of salsa and street music. Truly a fascinating, unique city.
On our way to Trinidad we visited the 'Bay of Pigs', site of a US-supported attack by Cuban exiles which failed to overthrow the Communist regime in 1961. As we wandered around the cobbled streets of this well preserved colonial town we visited a ‘Bodega’, where the local Cubans use their ration books to buy the bare essentials such as rice, sugar, flour and (of course) cigars from their state imposed salaries. We also came across a road worker half submerged in a hole digging away with the obligatory cigar hanging from his mouth. In the evening we went to the ‘Casa de Musica’, an open-air salsa club – great to watch, but alas not enough dancing skills to join in.
It was then off into the countryside
Havana
Music & dancing everywhere you go! for a 2 day visit to Topes de Collantes Nature Reserve. Our transportation for this leg of the journey was an old Russian military-style truck which was not really built for comfort. After each full day’s hiking we got to eat and sleep at a Hacienda - the eating and drinking was plentiful (including a spit-roasted suckling pig), but the sleeping was in short supply due to all the dogs and cockerels sharing the Hacienda. Oh, the joys of fresh mountain air and the peace and quiet of the rural night. During our time here we had a very capable Cuban guide called Janet – notable mainly for the fact that Janet was a big, loud, boisterous strapping bloke!
Whilst in the Sierra Maestra mountains we hiked up to the former revolutionary headquarters of Fidel Castro and Che Guevara. At the Casa de Fidel his simple camp bed and fridge (with a bullet hole in the side from when it was shot at as it was carted up the mountain for him) still remain.
On the way to Santiago de Cuba we visited a number of colonial towns, the highlight of which was a bici-taxi tour of Camaguey
Santiago
Viva La Revolution and a visit to the Casa de la Trova at Bayamo – fabulous, exuberant musicians playing great live Cuban music. Santiago itself is one of the poorest towns in Cuba, due to the fact that it was badly affected by Hurricane Sandy in 2012. So what do you do in such an impoverished place – you go to the best hotel in town, of course, and have cocktails on the roof terrace! Pina Coladas all round.
In Santa Clara we visited Che Guevara's Mausoleum. Guevara was buried here with full military honours in 1997 after his exhumed remains were discovered in Bolivia and returned to Cuba. A flame lit by Fidel Castro burns eternally to honour a man who played a key role in Cuba's revolution.
Our final stop was the Vinales valley, known for its very scenic countryside. The limestone karst scenery reminded us more of our travels in SE Asia than a Caribbean island. A walk wandering around the karsts was a perfect way to end our tour. It was then full circle and back to Havana. As a final treat we toured the city at night in an original 1914 Model T Ford (immaculate condition)
Trinidad
A local bodega - where locals redeem their ration coupons – what an exhilarating experience!
All in all, Cuba has been a fascinating place to visit. It’s a place where a bottle of rum can cost less than a bottle of water; classic, vintage cars from the 1950’s abound; the national, Government approved monthly wage is around $25; internet access is very limited and wi-fi almost non-existent; rationing of basic foodstuffs are commonplace and massive queues form at any shop when there is a hint of something new; pictures of the national hero, Che Guevara, are plastered everywhere; soap is in short supply and locals are constantly asking the tourists for any; and where men and women can often be seen with a big, fat cigar hanging from their mouths. And yet people seem happy with their lives and love to dance to salsa music which is played everywhere. Viva La Revolution!
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D MJ Binkley
Dave and Merry Jo Binkley
Cuba
We loved our time in Cuba. An amazing country.