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Published: January 18th 2009
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We were up early for a hot shower - a luxury in Cuba - and were on the streets just before 0800 to walk to the Moncada Barracks. Lonely Planet said that the gates opened at 0900 and this was confirmed by the security guards at the gate when we arrived at 0830. We filled in time circulating the barracks and walking through Parque Historico Abel Santamaria featuring a fountain sculpture of Moncada participant Abel Santamaria and Jose Marti. We returned to the entrance just before 0900 to be told that the new opening time was 0930 so we bought a few drinks and waited - you simply can’t rush things in Cuba. Entrance to the Moncada Museum was CUC2 each, CUC1 for the camera and CUC5 for the video camera. We enquired and were provided with an excellent English speaking guide and told payment was by tip. The museum was laid out similarly to Museo de Revolution in Havana with each room covering a part of the history of Cuba with obvious emphasis on the attack on the Moncada Barracks on July 26 1953. The items displayed included weaponry, uniforms, one of Fidel’s business cards and a scale model of
the Granma that was fortunately not as well guarded and fenced in as the real thing in Havana. We tipped our guide CUC3 and went back around getting more photos and video.
We walked back via Plaza de Marte to Plaza Dolores to our cafe from the previous day for two plates of fish soup and shrimp fried rice (along with a Bucanero of course). By midday we were back on the streets again and doing our best to avoid touts - albeit rather unsuccessfully. We found Balcon de Velarquez, a balcony overlooking the harbour (our first sight since getting to Santiago de Cuba) and whilst entrance was free, cameras cost CUC1. We thought the price was right and confirming our role as dumb tourist we paid up.
Our next stop was Museo de la Lucha Clandenstina (CUC1 each) located at the old police station that revolutionaries attacked on 30 November 1956 with the loss of three revolutionaries (amusingly none of the museums in Cuba so far mention casualties on the other side). This museum was focused more on the efforts on the home front while Castro was in Mexico.
By just after 1430 we caught a
taxi about 10km to Castillo de San Pedro del Morro, a castle perched high on the hills above the entrance to the harbour where the US and Spanish took part in a naval battle in 1898. The castle itself was finished in 1693 and was originally intended to keep an eye on pirates - a small display in Spanish doubtless explained that. Our cab driver had charged us CUC15 for the round trip so we spent the hour wasting time huddled in rooms as the heavy rain fell and taking photos in the few moments respite. Our driver took the scenic route home, stopping at one point so I could take photos and (surprisingly after our adventures in Peru) dropped us back at Plaza Dolores for the agreed price.
We went back to our “safe” cafe for a mojito and to update the diary at 1615. Our mate from the previous night was hanging around again and brought us an ashtray - again, this time only taking home CUC0.20 for his efforts. I liked his style - most other people did nothing and asked for money, this bloke made an effort and appreciated the importance of repeat business.
We ventured out from the safety of our cafe to find something different for dinner and we were very fortunate to stumble on Matamoros Restaurante or, more correctly, a waiter called Albert. Dinner was a lobster each along with shrimps and fish with a black bean soup (CUC10 each) but the highlight was an hour talking to Albert about life and politics. Much like Nicolas in Havana, Albert was of the impression that life after Fidel and Raul would continue as per usual. He also agreed with our sentiments that Obama was “less bad” for Cuba than McCain. Albert’s take-home pay was 295 pesos (12CUC) but he said that was plenty given free education and healthcare and cheap houses, rent and food. We walked back to our casa for another early night.
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