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Published: April 30th 2012
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Esteban, our guide, met us at the Lodge at 7 AM and we drove higher up the mountain to the Santa Elena cloud forest reserve. All funds raised through reserve entrance fees, etc go to the local Santa Elena high school.
We had spectacular views of the rare three wattled bell bird and resplendent quetzal, and a host of other local Costa Rican birds. This cloud forest had a real jungle feel to it with moss-covered vines reaching from the canopy to the forest floor.
Dung beetles and millipedes were the insects of the morning, about to be seriously upstaged by the insects of our amazing night hike.
We headed out for about a kilometer hike to our meeting place for our night hike. In a gathering in the quickly darkening cloud forest, we started a briefing before our hike. Sadly, a phalanx of army ants had selected the same clearing for their briefing. Our guide scanned the ground and ordered us to move to our left onto another trail. Maybe three minutes sooner and I would have had to come up with a different title for today’s blog. Kim opted to live the saying “Ants in your
pants” Army ants went up her leg and she got about 5 bites. Marika got one. Kim and Marika soon after tucked their socks into their pants like Dad. The bites only lasted about 5 to 10 minutes. One visitor from Japan chose not to wear socks and got about 10 bites. At the end of the 2 and a half hour night hike, I asked him using hand signals if he was okay. As he was deaf and communicated with sign language, he acted out a mini-story of his army ant bite saga and had us laughing hard. Multiple language barriers disappear when you share moments like that and are willing to engage.
After seeing a large female orange kneed tarantula, we found a funnel web spider. Now, a funnel web spider is one of the most poisonous – sort of makes the tarantula look like Mr. Fluffy Bunny.
The headlight beetle was a miracle unto itself. With fireflies beckoning here and there, what looked like a mini-jeep with headlights on came streaming through the night towards us. The aptly named airborne headlight beetle has two small ‘headlights’ which are constantly lit on its shoulders and does
look like a mini jeep in the forest - it's light result from two chemicals being released and mixing with oxygen. Our guide caught it and showed it to us up close then let it go.
We also saw a nasty plank beetle with impressive mandibles – like a black mountain crayfish. A good sized male stick insect gave a show. There was also spit beetles which only show as a huge wad of foamy spit on a leaf – the beetle is inside and exudes the ‘spit’ as a defense - works for me - I have yet to forage for a spit beetle. Add in an agouti (third largest rodent in the world) and a raccoon-like coatimundii and we had an amazing day.
Early to bed as tomorrow we take a tram cable car higher up the mountain than we have been thus far, and zip line kilometers down the mountain. Tomorrow afternoon we visit and help out on a mixed coffee plantation and a cacoa plantation.
I am holding back a lot on this, but while Kim and I have consistently been amazed if not surprised by Will and Marika's positive attitudes and endless
drive - but a long, long active day like this would have fried most adults and there was never the smallest peep of complaint about our long morning and night hikes up and down trails in the mountains, nor about anything in between. They are both genuinely curious and utterly open about engaging everything and everyone and do not hesitate to ask questions and share comments. The guides are always outspoken about their praise for the kids and they make the most fun, funny, enlightening and even charming co-travelllers. After dinner Kim and I flaked out on beds and both mentioned that our feet had felt the long day. Will jumped up and said "foot-rub man to the rescue" and Marika followed suit. Life is good...
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Petro
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Great trip
Nice to hear you are thoroughly enjoying your visit in the Rich Coast. It's a place where microclimates feel first class. By the end of your tour you will be able to compare ants, bites etc..."beware of snakes" with our native black flies. I am sure Marika is leading the Wolf Pack.