Belize, Orange Walk

---

As soon as the border is crossed, no before the difference is evident. First a greater mix of races, then signs in English, then everybody speaking English, and the Queens head on the money.

It took a while getting the truck across. We waited with the workers who were coming home from work and shopping expecting the bus or a ride.

And finally joy of joys we drove into the night with the prospect of ’bush camping’ …. Karen had bought food.

Imagine my relief when we stopped before the Victoria Hotel in Orange Walk. This was only slightly deflated when I discovered I was sharing with Tony and Merrick. They left me the smallest bed. The room and bed were clean and the shower and toilet could not be complained about.

Went in search of food. The woman at the desk said Lee’s had the best Chinese …that being the only thing open at 9:45 at night. Walked ther and had curry chicken that was missing the … no not chicken…the curry! It was good and went down well with two Lighthouse beers.

Next day there was the possibility of going on an ecotourism boat excursion down New River for $50US.
Mennonite colonies, orchids, birds, fishermen, myriad trees and CROCODILES! Now we know why there was a day’s stopover.
Sorry to say no crocs…neither shoes nor vicious predator.

The trip up river to Lamina Ruins thru mango groves was 40 km one way. When we started out a torrential downpour totally wetted the boat and passengers. Only Aussie Paul had a poncho and was saved a thorough soaking. The boat was powerful and took the curves tightly …only on the way back did we run out of gas.
A fantastic home cooked lunch of chicken and beans and rice with coleslaw, fresh hot sauce, and watermelon was served out of coolers with cold drinks on picnic tables under thatched roof.
The archaeologist on site and other workers also ate of the great lunch. Ladies from Spanish Church sold crafts. In the village a quarter of a mile away from the ruins they have divided themselves into sewing, jewellery, pottery and metal.
The extremely well informed had many stories to tell about medicinal trees for prostrate problems, a fruit looking like an acorn five of which are to be eaten for diahorrea, a tree to cause your blood flow to slow down in case of snake bite, the chicle tree used for chewing gum and shellac for the temples and of course the rubber tree the sap of which was used to make Juego de Pelota … the fatal ball game.

Getting off the boat a small green headed, harmless snake was observed. The Guide told us about two poisonous snakes ... one brown and one red and small. Neither was observed during the excursion… one of the 52 deadly possibilities to be encountered on this trip.

The museum was tiny. Lamanai has only been open to the public since the 90’s. The good pieces have gone to bigger museums. Lots of shards can be seen under tarps as the archaeologists continue to examine the remains of an ancient civilization. Only 20% of the ruins have been unearthed. Prendergast from the ROM in Ontario was one of the archaeologists that began the work in the 80’s.

Once back at the truck we were off to Belize City. We camped at Cucumber Beach 8k out of Belize City. Only saw what could be seen from the truck, the car or the taxi window. It was not pretty. Slept at camp after enduring cook group… took off for Caye Caulker by 7:15 in the morning. Was excused from breakfast duty…thank you.

Got a ride with one of the restaurant workers. He took me to the water taxi. Gave him ten dollars. Only realized later I had given him 10US. Made his day!!!

---