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Published: March 14th 2007
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South Anchorage
The Rum Runner in the south anchorage of Waderick Wells. Our next stop was Warderick Wells, the head quarters of the Exuma Land and Sea Park. The Exuma Land and Sea Park is a 176 square mile protected park which consists of 15 major cays (including Shroud and Little Bell) and numerous smaller ones. It was set aside by an act of Parliament in 1959 to protect the diversity of marine life for future generations. Unfortunately the populations of fish, conch, and lobster have greatly diminished from over-fishing in the Bahamas over the years. We have talked to many locals in our travels and they share stories about how conch used to litter the beach and that you had to be careful walking barefoot for fear of cutting your foot (as opposed to today where you have to search out for conch, often unsuccessfully). So this stretch of islands in the Exuma chain is a “no take zone”, meaning no fishing or taking of any plant, shell, or animal within the boundaries of the park. The result of this protection is an abundance of wildlife, often very tame and friendly, which we enjoyed during our week-long stay.
As we approached Warderick Wells we contacted the park headquarters and were assigned
South Anchorage
The view inside the south anchorage of Warderick Wells. a mooring ball in the south anchorage, also known as the pirate’s lair. It got its name because pirates used this very protected anchorage as a place to rest, have meetings, and hide out for unsuspecting ships en route to Nassau to pillage. Just off the beach you follow a small trail to a fresh water well which the pirates used. In the surrounding area there are different species of trees and grass, found nowhere else in the Bahamas. It is said that the pirates would go up to this area, with their mats (containing grass seeds as well as other foreign fauna), for meetings ashore. It is from the pirate’s mats that the non-indigenous plants and trees grow here now.
Upon entering the south anchorage we were taken aback by its beauty and abundant sea life. There was a pod of spotted eagle rays that frequently came thru the anchorage and showed off their aerobatics. We couldn’t believe our eyes, but yes, the eagle rays would jump out of the water and their entire body would be airborne several feet high before landing again, with a giant splash! It was truly awesome and we couldn’t believe that rays
Pirate's Lair
The small path that leads to the pirates lair, where pirates would come ahore and do whatever it is pirates do. did this. But just about everyday we would witness this behavior and hear the splashes. Crazy! And there was a school of giant yellow tail snapper that took up residence under our boat and dinghy, as well as a 5 foot long barracuda. At night you could shine a flashlight off the back of the boat and spot about 15-20 fish swimming about.
Speaking of our nights there, we had some of the most amazing sunsets and moonrises we have ever experienced. On the first night the moon was coming up in a pink sky, which was produced by the simultaneous sunset. Everywhere we looked it was spectacular, a 360 degree sky of painted colors with the islands as background. It doesn’t get much prettier than that. And then a couple nights later, after we finished watching the sunset, we looked out and witnessed a full lunar eclipse- wow! It was amazing to experience this lunar event out here in the Bahamas, on anchor at a deserted island. We stayed up and watched the whole thing. It was quite memorable, a night we will certainly never forget.
The first day at the south anchorage we hopped in our
Fresh Water Well
The water well at the pirate's lair- fresh, sweet water. dinghy and explored all the little islands which surrounded us. The first stop was escape beach on Hog Cay. Just north of the beach was a tunnel, which you can snorkel thru to the other side of the island and find yourself in the Atlantic Ocean- very cool! Although we never got a chance to do this because the seas were rough on the Atlantic side, making it too dangerous to attempt- bummer. So instead we hiked to the top of the hill and where we enjoyed the beautiful views of the surrounding area. Then we continued our dinghy exploration and went to the beach on Pirate’s Retreat. We spent the afternoon just chillin’ on the beach there; swimming, reading books, and playing ball with Kona. It proved to be the perfect Bahamian beach experience.
One of our favorite things to do at Warderick Wells was dinghy over to the park headquarters on the north side of the island. There are lots of things to see and do here. When we first landed our dinghy we couldn’t help but notice the large skeletal remains of a sperm whale on the beach. Apparently there used to be a lot of
Spotted Eagle Ray
One of the many spotted eagle rays that would cruise thru the anchorage, making a big splash. sperm whales in the area, and we even saw a great picture of a woman swimming alongside one in the Berry Islands- very cool.
As we followed the path up to headquarters we couldn’t help but notice all the bananaquits (a small black and white bird with a yellow breast- very common in the Bahamas) flitting around. Actually you can stop and feed them here, just by putting a little sugar into the palm of your hand. We felt like Mary Poppins, it was so cool! Before you knew it, you would have 3-5 little birds perched in your hands eating the sugar in such a gentle way that it tickles. It was by far our favorite thing we did at headquarters. And it was quite common that a bananaquit would land in your hand from time to time, even without sugar, while we were hanging out at headquarters.
Headquarters is located at the top of a hill, and it provides spectacular views of the anchorage and surrounding area. And it has a fabulous porch with chairs that provide a great place to sit, relax, and take it all in. One day we came here with a small
Sunset
Sunset over the beach at Warderick Wells- beautiful! cooler and just spent a couple hours hanging out. It was so relaxing. We had a great time talking with the park warden and other cruisers, as well as just watching the comings and goings of the place. We can see why this is such a popular destination.
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Nance
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most beautiful
Your imagery and writing is getting more and more beautiful. You could be trading this for cash? Travel writing is a natural for you. Miss you tons. You guys look relaxed and Kona is such a buddy!