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Published: January 5th 2017
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In the last week, we have weathered some high winds, meandered through mangroves of deep greens rising up from baby blue crystalline waters, seen the ruins of a drug lords lair, stumbled upon an abandoned camp, snorkeled with vibrant colored fish, seen caves etched out of the rock by the waves of the sea, and explored rocky trails accompanied by curious lizards.
Our first full day in the Exuma’s was probably one of the most turbulent days at anchor we have ever had. We are pretty careful to watch the weather forecasts, both when we are traveling or at anchor to make sure we have as calm as waters as possible. Well, unfortunately, the forecast had predicted winds out of the N/NE, but the winds decided to gale out of the west. Our anchorage was wide open to the west, sending us rocking and rolling. At some points, our boat was rocking 20 – 25 degrees each way. Doesn’t seem like a lot, but when it moves from one side to the other, that is a total of a 50 degree swing.
I was feeling ill most of the day (I am convinced it was something I ate, or
all the bug bites I have gotten - I am in denial that it could have been motion sickness!), so I stayed securely tucked in bed, except to help put away some things. Always diligent, Lukus stalwartly stood guard the whole day, lashing equipment and supplies down, trying to fix the anchor to keep us from rolling and watching the other boats in the anchorage. Finally, near the end of the day, the winds moved towards the N and then NE, the waters laid down, and Lukus was able to relax.
The next day, with Highbourne Cay blocking the winds from the east, we were able to get out in the dinghy and cruise the shores. Part way back to the boat, I jumped in to snorkel while Lukus manned the dinghy. Most of the bottom was sand and weeds, but I came upon one large rock/reef, about the size of a vehicle motor (a motor? I know, odd comparison for me to use…I'm getting all "technical"). The rock was teeming with 100’s of brightly colored fish, black and white angel fish, bright blue and yellow tangs and yellowtail snapper. I tried to take a photo, but being my
first time with underwater photography, they unfortunately didn’t come out well.
Our next stop was Norman’s Cay, best known for the deserted remnants of drug lord, Carlos Lehder’s, headquarters in the 1970’s and the wreck of a drug smuggling plane just off the shore. Regrettably, the weather was not cooperative, and the waves were just to choppy to be able to go dive the plane wreck (we are hoping maybe on the way back up we can stop in again), but we did get to go ashore and see the ruins. The island is in the midst of being rebuilt, the ruins slowly being overtaken by construction, making it harder to picture how the island was back in the 70’s. But it was nice to get ashore and walk, and we even saw a few planes landing right overhead on their little airstrip (almost every second island here seems to have an landing strip).
Arriving in the Exuma Land and Sea Park, a 22 mile stretch of government protected land and water, our first stop was Shroud Cay. The island is made mostly of mangroves, and we spent an idyllic morning meandering through the creeks. The mangroves, along
with most of the vegetation we have seen here, is very low-lying. Apparently, the brisk winds blowing saltwater and sand keeps anything from growing too tall. It was here, on the east side of the island, that we found an abandoned camp site. As we wandered through; spotting a flipper alongside the head of a snow shovel, shoes and plastic jugs strewn all around and three weathered hammocks strung from the trees, it was eerily quixotic to imagine the story of the people who were here.
Later that day, we moved on to Hawksbill Cay, where we anchored for the night. We spent the afternoon scooting along the shore; stopping on a deserted beach littered with conch shells that were so old, they appeared almost fossilized. Little lizards, some with vivid, teal colored tails, scampered along in front of us in the pale, white sand.
The following day we made for Warderick Cay, home of the Park’s headquarters. I must admit, this was probably one of my favorite places so far. The island boasts 7 miles of scenic, rocky trails leading from one end of the island to the other, including the iconic (ok, I didn’t know anything
about it until we got there, but apparently, it is “famous”) Boo Boo Hill, which offers one of the most panoramic views of the neighbouring cays. As the story goes, the hill is haunted by the souls of a missionary ship that went aground in the area, and the apex of the hill is strewn with driftwood signs left there by boaters as supposed “offerings” to the sea gods for safe passage. (Can’t say we met any ghosts, and we didn’t leave a sign…I am not sure what the sea gods are going to do with a sign anyway??)
Close to Boo Boo Hill was the “blow holes”. We weren’t sure what those were, so we ventured over for a look. A small sign pointed to a deep hole in the ground, close to the edge of a cliff along the water. As Lukus bent over to investigate, he learned quickly what it was. Poof, a huge blast of air sent his hat flying off his head! Startled us both I must admit. The hole went straight down to the roof of a cavern along the waters’ edge, and as the waves crashed in and filled the cavern, it
sent a gust of air right up the hole. Pretty amazing. I was tempted to do the whole “Marilyn Monroe” thing, but I wasn’t wearing a skirt…lol.
Time permitting, we would have stayed longer than the two nights at this scenic location, but as often happens on a voyage such as this (I am quickly learning), weather can be a real dictator. With strong winds forecasted for this weekend, we took advantage of a good weather window and began heading south yesterday. We want to arrive in George Town ahead of my mom, dad and daughter’s arrival on the 15
th (cannot deny that I am super, duper excited to see them!!)
Today, as we cruised, we decided to throw in the line for the first time on this trip. Since we were running and couldn’t hear the reel drag if a fish bit, we were all “MacGyver”ish and taped a piece of red electrical tape to our line. If it moved, we had a bite.
Within the first half hour, Lukus had snagged a 3 foot King Mackerel!! His birthday gift to me; our first catch and a welcome one as there is no meat left in
our fridge!! Sashimi for a birthday dinner is a nice treat. Not long after, we had another bite, this time a barracuda. We decided not to keep him; have you seen the teeth on those things??
We also caught a Spanish Mackerel, or at least half of one. At one point, I saw the tape move and Lukus went out to reel in our catch. Suddenly the line went slack and we figured the fish had spit out the hook. We decided to reel in the line just to check the lure. On the hook was the forward half of a nice size Spanish Mackerel, his tail end oddly missing…we figure a shark must have enjoyed a good bite out of our catch! Ah well, I am all about sharing!
We arrived this afternoon in George Town and are now listening to the blowing of conch shells from neighbouring boats signalling the setting of the sun.
Really, there is so much more I could write, but this post has gotten away from me again!
I wish I could bundle up all the amazing, awe inspiring beauty we have seen this week in a nice
neat little bundle of words for you each to experience. But then, if we all read vivid descriptions of what lays beyond, we would not have the joy of discovering it for ourselves. And so, I pray each of you, on your own personal journeys, find delight in the decadence of nature's display, find joy in the minute details of life, and find peace in the knowledge that all is at it should be for this moment.
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Tom Whitney
non-member comment
Never to long
Hi Lukus & Emy: In the latest installment of your blog you made a comment that you thought it was to long. I have to say that we read and enjoy every word and then talk about them and discuss your adventures with family friends. Also while reading on my ipad it is my habit to have Google Earth open on the computer so I can follow along while sitting by the window the other side of which today is -9 so please don't think they are to long. Enjoy the Sun & Fun Tom