The 170km from Omarama to Queenstown take us gently back towards the mountains. The road passes through Tarras, a tiny blip on the map which gained worldwide fame (well, almost) as the home of Shrek, a naughty merino sheep who was found in 2004 having evaded the shears for six consecutive years and, as you might expect, looking quite alarming for this fact. The hapless creature, having avoided capture for so long by hiding in caves, was caught and promptly shorn of his fleece, which weighed in at no less than 27 kilograms (enough wool, I am told, to make twenty suit jackets). Queenstown has a spectacular location: on the shores of squiggle-shaped Lake Wakatipu, the town sits against a backdrop of soaring, snow-capped peaks. Queenstown has developed into New Zealand's undisputed backpacker capital which, in
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