Jack went back to take more photos of the graffiti early this morning while I updated my blog. When he got back, he offered to join me to go to services. There is a modern Orthodox synagogue, Beth El, within 8 blocks of the hotel so we headed over. The synagogue was small, old and there were probably 40 people there, a mix of young and old. We arrived at the end of the Torah service and stayed until it was time for the sermon, since a sermon in Hebrew was a non-starter. In the synagogue the men and women sat with a divider between them, but near the entrance were seats where men and women could sit together. The Rabbi came over to warmly greet us. He acknowledged Jack's Red Sox cap, and politely informed ... read more

I’m back at the hotel after our day with Uncle Shmulik and I hardly know where to begin. After getting caught in traffic and then horribly lost in Abu Ghosh, we finally connected about 10:30. Shmulik served in an Israeli administration that was invited in years ago when the village was nearly bankrupt. The Israeli government built roads and sewers, the kind of infrastructure projects that actually change people’s lives. Since he had worked in this village of 7 or 8,000 people for six years he knew almost everyone whose path we crossed. Our first stop was at a large, newly built mosque in the center of the town. Our guide was Jabar, a building inspector who had worked on the building for the 3-1/2 years it was under construction. While I knew that very Orthodox ... read more

We left Boston on the first nice day of the year. On our flight to New York the pilot announced that there was an equipment malfunction so we would be coming in fast, but we didn't have to worry because we were landing on the longest runway at JFK. We hit the ground hard, but it was pretty uneventful after all. El Al's security was the know it and love it personal interview. It is very reassuring that they actually look you in the eye, ask questions and listen to your answers. The flight over was long, but I was clever enough to remember that El Al's food is inedible so I brought some of my own and there was a good movie I'd been wanting to see, Mr. Banks. I got some sleep and the ... read more

We followed the Garmen all the way to the airport. As was often the case, it took us a direct route using one-lane roads. The landscape was covered in morning fog and Jack kept wishing that we didn’t have a plane to catch so he could stop to take some pictures. Our flight back on easyJet was easier than that prior flight. Jack graciously agreed to take the bus from Orly into the city since it went to the 14thArondissement where our hotel was located. We got off the bus and lugging our 2 big suitcases and our heavy backpacks it was hard to get a cab. When we finally got a cab it was 5 minutes to our hotel. The Fabe Hotel was highly recommended by Trip Advisor. The hotel itself was very modern and ... read more

We headed south the Pyrenees about 9 hoping to go to the top of Pic du Midi at 9,000 feet. In the Tourist office in Bagneres-de-Bigotte, the pictures from their webcam at the top of the mountain showed solid white clouds. Instead, they recommended we head to Col de Alons for a view of the Pyrenees from under the clouds. Before we headed out we stopped for tea at the cutest pastry shop since Paris. It turns out Patisserie Bordelaise Maison Lamothe (www.patisserie-bordelaise.fr) has been a family run business since 1907. The gentleman who greeted us was one of the six family members currently running the shop. He had baked for the royal family of Belgium and his cousin who also works in the business worked for Lauderee in Paris. The toasted pine nut pastry was ... read more