680km and a 14 hour bus ride later, and I was in Huế, a former capital under the Nguyen emperors and now a centre for culture, education and religion. Like all the best-trodden traveller destinations, Huế has a 'tourist district', which for all their sameness and lack of local character provide an amazingly easy way to change money, check e-mails, grab some food and book whatever needs booking. So, after booking my bus down to Hội An for the following day and re-fuelling with a banana pancake, I headed off on foot to explore the town's Citadel. Surrounded by huge stone walls and a moat, the Citadel, construction of which began in 1804, dominates the town, with a 37-metre tall flagpole commanding the skyline and the long southern frontage, pierced by the Nga and Quang Duc
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