Before coming to Iran, a lot of people told me this story about a traveller who, upon seeing an anti-western demonstration in Tehran (flag burning, etc.), goes up to the most angry looking demonstrator and introduces himself as English (or Inglistan as they say here). The angry man's face softens, and he gives the traveller a warm smile and handshake and says 'you are very welcome in Iran'. As it happens, this actually did happen to John Simpson of the BBC. If you want to get a visa for Pakistan in Iran, forget it. For many, Iran is the end of the road for the Istanbul to Kathmandu trailers. I have met many of the biker community in Esfahan with their sooper-dooper BMW beasts, many of whom have had to turn back. A British or French
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