Page 10 of Pensiongapper Travel Blog Posts



Wednesday 28thJanuary: Puerto Madryn, Chubut Province, Argentina In July 1865, a clipper named “Mimosa” entered the natural harbour of Golfo Nuevo, bringing 150 Welsh immigrants to Argentina. They found some natural caves on the south eastern shore of the harbour, in which they made their homes; the caves are still there. They named the place “Porth Madryn”, after the name of the estate of Madryn in Wales, owned at the time by Sir Love Jones-Parry, the Baron of Madryn. Spanish settlers soon followed and in the 20th Century, more still from several different European countries. Puerto Madryn, as it is now called, is very European in style. The architecture of many of the buildings reflects the English style and many of the houses look Bavarian in character. The beach culture, however, is entirely Spanish. It is ... read more
Half way on our walk, looking back across Golfo Nuevo
Punto de las Cuevas
The Eco Centre

South America » Falkland Islands » East Falkland January 28th 2015

Monday 26thJanuary 2015 Note: the last blog had thirty-one photos so went on to two pages. We dropped anchor in the natural harbour of Port William on East Falkland, at 7.30 a.m. this morning. We were tendered ashore to the pier at Stanley, dolphins followed the tenders to and fro all day, and an elderly sea lion was asleep on the pier. We were welcomed with Brit voices saying “Hello, how do you do?” and we felt so at home; it felt good. The Falkland islanders are so patriotic, with Union Jacks flying everywhere; it felt like England in June 2012, for the Diamond Jubilee. In the Falklands, it is like this every day! Even on our cruise ship, the day before as we were heading for the islands, the American Grill Bar became ... read more
Stanley
A Gentoo who has shed most of his baby down
Gentoos and Kings

South America » Chile » Magallanes January 26th 2015

Sunday 25th January 2015 We have decided to put a map in with this blog, since it is the easiest way to explain our route. From the Amalia Glacier, we entered the Straits of Magellan to the port of Punta Arenas, then came back out into the Pacific again. Ships saved a journey of 380 nautical miles by passing through the Straits, once the route was discovered by Fernando Magellan, rather than going around the treacherous seas of Cape Horn. We have not passed through the Straits from the Pacific to the Atlantic for two reasons, firstly because to “Round the Horn”, was planned to be a highlight of the voyage (which it has been), and secondly because we would get stuck! Our ship is too big! The Atlantic side of the Straits is very narrow. ... read more
2 Map of Patagonia
3 Cathedral, Punta Arenas
4 Ferdinand Magellan

South America » Chile » Magallanes January 23rd 2015

Thursday 22nd January 2015 Adjectives like “awesome” and “amazing” are hackneyed and over-used, but they are needed here, to try to begin to describe the Amalia. We were amazed and struck with awe and wonder, at the magnificence of this work of Nature´s art. The only way to see it is by ship, and only a few cruise ships and expedition craft venture here. The weather is often so bad that the glacier can hardly be seen, so today was a rare experience. The sea was calm, the sky was cloudless and the sun rose to make the ice sparkle. Julio, our Spanish voyage lecturer, said that he had never before seen the Amalia so clearly. We are most fortunate and privileged people right now. The Amalia Glacier lies 50 degrees south of the Equator, 1,425 ... read more
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South America » Chile » Aisén January 20th 2015

Tuesday 20th January 2015 Did we say on Monday, whilst in northern Patagonia, “scenery doesn´t get much better than this”? We did? Well we were wrong. Today it just did! The Aysen region of central Patagonia is a wonderland of fiords, glaciers, mountains and lakes. It is majestic scenery, similar to the South Island of New Zealand, with emerald green rivers and sparkling waterfalls, beneath craggy snow-capped granite peaks. It is exhausting! It causes a beauty-overload to the eyes; the poor brain has a problem absorbing so much splendour all in one day! Thank goodness that tomorrow is another “at sea” day, to allow our over-stimulated little grey cells to recover, before reaching the Amalia Glacier on Thursday! Our giant but silent big ship, slipped into the entrance to the Aysen Fiords at dawn, 6 a.m. ... read more
2 Aysen Fiord 7 a.m.
3 Sun rising on a volcanic peak, Aysen Fiord
4 Dropping anchor in the bay, Chacabucu

South America » Chile » Aisén » Puerto Aysen January 20th 2015

Monday 19thJanuary 2015 We spent our last day in Valparaiso walking around the dockyard, to one of the old batteries from the Pacific Wars, and found a nice clean beach (a rarity in Valpo). “Bateria Esmeralda” was built in 1879 and was one of nineteen emplacements around Valparaiso Bay (Los Fuertes en Bahia de Valparaiso); each had three huge canon, so the place was pretty well defended! Early on Saturday morning, at around 5 a.m. the “Golden Princess” slipped into Valpo in the fog. We set our alarm clock, and headed down to the dockyard, to see this impressive “Grand Class” ship shrouded in the dawn mist. It was a beautiful and most impressive sight. Later on, we took a taxi down to the cruise terminal and in no time at all we were checked in ... read more
2 Valparaiso's clean beach!
3 The Golden Princess in the dawn mist
4 Farewell Valparaiso

South America » Chile » Valparaíso Region » Valparaíso January 15th 2015

Ever since we arrived in South America, from Ecuador to Chile, we have been constantly aware of the fame of Bernardo O’Higgins. This son of an Irish father (who happened to be the Governor of Chile) and a Chilean mother, was born in Chile on 20th August 1778. He was sent to England for his education, returned to Chile to become a sailor and ended up an Admiral and then, upon independence, the Supreme Director of the country. He is recognised as Chile´s liberator, as well as Peru´s, in the fight for independence from Spain. The name O´Higgins is everywhere, and every city has an Avenida O´Higgins. In our ignorance we knew little of this famous man, so, on Wednesday we spent the morning in the maritime museum in Valparaiso, where a whole salon is dedicated ... read more
Maritime museum, Valparaiso
Anchor in the grass
Small canon

South America » Chile » Valparaíso Region » Valparaíso January 12th 2015

Traveller’s reviews of Valparaiso are polarised; some people rave about this city and others don’t quite “get it”, using words like ‘underwhelmed’ or “over-hyped”. Our views lie somewhere in the middle, although we are not ashamed to say that we tend to fall into the latter group, despite understanding this city´s charm and appeal for many. The view from our hotel window is stunning, indeed we would say that “’Valpo” as it is generally called, is vibrant and vivacious with wonderful vistas. It is also, however, grim and grimy with awful graffiti. It is this dichotomy, in fact, this faded chic and shabbiness, that has in the past attracted artists and poets, but like its faded grandeur, these talented bohemians seem to be long gone. Valpo is all a bit ‘passé’! “The ... read more
A very good example of street art
...and then there is the trashy graffitti!
Funicular railway

South America » Chile » Santiago Region » Santiago January 9th 2015

Santiago is a beautiful city, and our favourite South American city so far. Named after another beautiful city, Santiago de Campostella in Galicia, Spain, in honour of Saint James, Spain’s patron saint; Santiago is a Galician evolution of vulgar Latin, Sanctu Iacobi, Saint James. It is an old city, founded by the Spanish in 1541 and still displays much of its fine colonial architecture alongside high modern towers, like the Gran Torre, the highest building in the continent and second highest in the Southern Hemisphere, after Australia’s Q1. We have spent two days exploring Santiago on foot, and now our legs ache! There is a lot to see! Just a few minutes along the road from our apartment brought us to the Palacio de Gobierno, the... read more
Time to cross!
Santiago from the Cumbre
Half way down the Cumbre

South America » Chile » Tarapacá January 8th 2015

If one flies into the city of Iquique, in Northern Chile, one lands on an airstrip more or less on the beach, surrounded by desert and at the foot of a giant mountain of sand. The gigantic sand dunes and the desert, spread from the Andes in the east, to the ocean in the west. Virtually the whole of Northern Chile is desert, from the Peruvian border down to the Atacama, where it hasn´t rained for over one hundred years; it is an endless landscape of sand. If, however, one crosses the desert url=file:///C:/Users/Vivien/Documents/Blog%2039%20%20%20%20Four%20hours%20of%20desert%20and%20a%20brush%20with%20officialdom.docx#_msocom_1 bus, as we did on Monday, then it is necessary to descend one of these monster dunes (not quite in the style of Fifth Gear) to reach the city. It is quite an experience, seeing the city and the Pacific far below, ... read more
A little oasis in the desert
Monster sand mountains behind the city
Pelicans on the roof of the fish market




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