A lot of sorry looking faces this morning. Jenna had goaded the boys into a bit of a session. Her bar bill had twenty-five shots of Jaegermeister, twenty-five of Jack Daniels and assorted other goodies - I doubt she bought every drink that night too. We had intended to fill up at the gas station just before the lodge as we arrived the previous day, but they had no fuel. "Maybe tomorrow" was all we could determine. Well, tomorrow has come and there is still no fuel. Luckily, the lodge has experienced this many times before and has a reserve supply on hand, sufficient for the six bikes that need it. Apparently they intend to build their own storage tank and pump to cover these eventualities in the future. We ride the entire route on tarmac ... read more

Today's trip Its a pretty straight road to Rundu, first half gravel then tarmac. We'd been given the warning that we had to conserve fuel carefully or we would not make it t the next gas station. As usual, I took in approximately half of the briefing information (the half about conserving fuel) and forgot the rest. And so as we progressed along the route, I used the BMW's trip computer to monitor our range. Even two up and heavy, the range was more than enough to get us to the end of the route we were on. I therefore applied some throttle and took full enjoyment from riding the dirt track. As we neared the end of the stage, I noted triumphantly that I had over 50Km range left. A couple of other bikes were ... read more

We leave Swakopmund at around 8:30, hoping to be at the bank as it opens to change some of the dollars we are carrying. Unfortunately, Saturday AM seems to be the time the locals descend on their bank, so the line is already 50 deep at that time. We head across the road and hit the ATM instead, fill up at the edge of town and head north up the coast. We are on a "salt" road, so called as it is tarmac covered in salt from the sea and very slippery when wet. We head up to Hentes Bay, very chilly at 14 degrees. Along the way, we encounter a recent skeleton coast wreck, now parked in the breakers and home to dozens of cormorants, white sided and common. We pause for a look round ... read more

Another 8:00AM start from the very pleasant Le Mirage. Today it will be around 300Km and a late lunch arrival at Swakopmund, if we get a move on. However, we are not the type to rush along if there is an experience to be had along the way, so we take our time, with no thought of making it to the Nando's for lunch. The other reason is that gravel roads tend to develop a wash-board like surface after a while. This, I have heard, is due to the bouncing suspension of the trucks and cars that pass over it. Its pretty fatiguing on the arms, butt, teeth, fillings and nerves and speeding over it is unpleasant for rider and pillion. Going faster would get it over with quicker I suppose, but the dental bills would ... read more

"Breakfast at 8 leave at 9" The daily briefing complete, we leave the river lodge. Last night had ended with Jaeger shots, Jenga and a new way of drinking tequila that Charley showed us (with orange segments sprinkled with cinnamon). S today I'm feeling a little slow. Pam missed the late night activities having gone straight to bed after the truck ride. Today we are headed towards the Fish River Canyon, another short day over mainly gravel roads. Namibia is dryer than a witches t*t, as they say, and away from the river, virtually nothing seems to survive. We gain altitude slowly, the temperature around 17.5, so the vents are all zipped up. Easy going mainly, until after a short visit to the hot springs at Ai Ais (good coffee but otherwise not worth the detour) ... read more