We arrived in Delhi in the evening after an hour and a half flight from Kathmandu. Driving through the streets to our hotel, I was reminded of my first trip to India when I touched down in the madness of Bombay. In comparison, Delhi airport was clean and modern and quite unexpectedly hassle-free. The city itself, however, was just as frenetic as Bombay, with networks of run-down alleyways teeming with traffic, merchants and cows in search of the odd vegetable that might drop from the market stalls. An unexpected haven of peace and respite from the humid heat was the underground network. If not as extensive, it far outshone the London Underground, with air-conditioning throughout and spaceous carriages. Heading to the Gandhi Museum, we took a short trip to the Central Secretariat and by chance, stumbled
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