We swot up on the differences between seals and sea-lions at the local ecocentre, in readiness for our sea-kayak trip. We´re picked up from our hostel by our guide, Juani, and are pleased to discover that we´re his only passengers. Our kayaks are not among the five vessels officially permitted to take tourists whale-watching, so we duly make our promises to Juani that, should we come across said mammals, we will close our eyes and start paddling in the other direction... It´s a 15km drive on gravel roads to the launch point - a deserted beach. The sun is not long up and the sea is perfectly still. We´re excited to be in the great outdoors again after almost two weeks of city life and are looking forward to our adventure. We get kitted up, and
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