VIETNAM

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After the cool, rainy weather of Hong Kong we were happy to arrive in Chan May, Vietnam on a warm sunny morning. We decided to take the ship’s shuttle to Lang Co Resort. It took a little longer to get to the resort because the rice paddy-lined road was filled with water buffalo heading towards their grazing grounds. We spent the day at the lovely hotel perched above the South China Sea. For $5 per person we could use the huge pool, have a towel and lounge chair and a changing room. In the past it has been too cold to swim in the pool, but this day it was a perfect way to spend some leisure time. Land Co has a nice outdoor restaurant overlooking the beach where we had lunch in between lap swimming.

We cruised south along the coast of Vietnam on what Captain Corsaro described as “a glorious day at sea.” There was a clear horizon, flat seas, balmy weather and light winds…a model cruising day. It was a good time to recharge and get ready for the rigors of hectic Ho Chi Minh City. For the first time ever we were able to dock right downtown thus avoiding the long bus ride into the city from a downstream pier. Instead of a one hour ride, it took our shuttle bus seven minutes to reach the center of town.

Last summer when we were in Venice, Florida we went to a Vietnamese restaurant. We got to talking with the owner and he told us that his son had moved to Vietnam. We connected up with Anhtoan via Facebook and planned to meet upon our arrival in Saigon. Anhtoan brought his girlfriend, Mie, with him and we had lunch at the lovely courtyard restaurant in the famous Rex Hotel. He told us what it is like to live in this bustling city as an ex-pat. Like millions of locals, Anhtoan gets around by motorcycle. He rents a small apartment and teaches English to make a living. He loves living here and getting together with relatives and exploring the countryside. His father wishes he would return home, but Anhtoan wants to continue to explore his cultural heritage in the land of his fore-fathers.

Kevin spent two years in Vietnam in the late 1960s and I flew troops in and out of the country for five years during that same time period. We first returned in 2001. The transformation that Saigon has gone through in 15 years is remarkable. There were no high-rise buildings then. The preferred mode of transportation was via bicycles. There were no traffic lights and pedi-cabs got you to your destination. Now the streets (and sidewalks) are teeming with motorcycles. A subway system is being built to help with the congestion. Many of the one and two story shops are being replaced by fancy designer stores. Fortunately much of the city life is still conducted on the streets with portable restaurants, post card and sunglass hawkers, shoeshine men and t-shirt sellers. Also the storied markets are still here. The Ben Thanh market is not for the faint of heart and is known for its aggressive merchants. We spent time in the Cholon District which is Chinatown. These are the real merchants and that huge market is almost as overwhelming as Ben Thanh with it noise, smells, heat and frenetic activity.

We had a deck bar-b-que while docked in Saigon. It was a beautiful night on the river with the city all aglow as a back drop. The grilled food was delicious and after dinner there was a steamy disco dance on the teak pool deck.

We cruised down the Saigon River to the sea past the industrial piers and small villages and mangroves. For many Americans, Vietnam is still a very emotional and sensitive topic. But to see this country now in the throes of its massive modernization, I doubt that too many Vietnamese are looking back at the war years. Their focus is on a bright future.

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Photos

BASKET FISHING BOAT
The rowing is unique and quite efficient

LANG CO RESORT
The resort pool was just dandy

KITCHEN BY THE SEA
The resort kitchen served up great seafood

WATER BUFFALO
They are a mainstay of Vietnamese country life

RESORT BEACH
The water was surprisingly chilly

VIETNAMESE SOLDIER
They provided the shore side security

SKIPPER ON THE WING
Captain Corsaro guides us to the pier on the Saigon River.

MIE and ANHTOAN
An American in Saigon falls in love

HO CHI MINH CITY HALL
A beautiful ediface done French style

JURGEN and HELGA in HCMC
Guide John escorts them to their Cruise Specialists' private car for touring

DOWNTOWN SAIGON
View from the Rex Hotel of the new subway construction

AO DAI
The beautiful Vietnamese dress

ELKE, KEVIN, ANNIE
Dressed oriental for the pool deck bbq

ORCHIDS
Everywhere in Vietnam

POTS 'n PANS
As far as one could see in the Chinatown market

HCMC CHINATOWN
The streets are hard to navigate

FAMILY OUTING
A day at the market

ELISHA
A unique floating restaurant on the Saigon River

Comments

[Dennie]

Vietnam
Susan, your blogs are really excellent ! You capture the essence wherever you are and always manage to add a new perspective to even the most familiar places....looking forward to your next blog!

[Lynda Thorpe]

Vietnam
Wow. That was wonderful. As usual, I felt like I was there and also wished I could fit into that long red dress.

[David Stubenberg]

Vietnam
You mentioned that both of you had been there during the war. What were you guys doing then? I was in the Army Reserves in Hawaii waiting to get called up in the late 60's but they called up the National Guard instead so I avoided the war. When we were in Saigon several years ago we were on a Princess ship that was way too big for the river so we got to experience that wonderful (Ha!) bus ride. Sailing up the river sounds terrific.

[Bob Christofk]

Annie
I didn't realize Annie was on board with you guys until I saw your picture of her. Tell her I still have the incriminating photos I took when her cabin was just above ours on the back of the ship on the last Regent world cruise.

[Jim & Diana]

Vietnam Past and Present
Rex Hotel! The view from the rooftop restaurant was quite different in '64 and '68; you could see a bit of the war well into the distance. As a two-tour grunt I have put away most of it. But, I am happy for the Vietnamese: peace! Enjoying your narratives and photos.