Taxis, bamboo trains and tuk tuks

---

Sometimes when we need to distract the kids from an impending argument, we tally up the number of taxi or tuk tuk rides we have taken on the trip so far. After our recent visit to Battambang we can add a bamboo train to our list of weird and wonderful modes of transport...

Yet another comfortable taxi ride in one of Cambodia's fleet of Camrys saw us in Battambang, in the far northwest of Cambodia, in a couple of hours.

With the luxurious but affordable La Villa booked up (part of the reason for going to Battambang in the first place was to stay at this famously beautiful old villa) we were forced to seek alternative digs. A brief trawl of the internet suggested a hotel not listed in the guide book might be worth a try. The price was right. When I was making a booking over the phone I assumed the man had said $50 per night. So I checked - "so that's $50 per night". "No, no $15, one-five". Seemed very cheap given that it looked like a four star hotel with a huge sparkling pool.

When we arrived we were sure were in the wrong place. Julie refused to believe it could possibly be $15 a night and was just waiting for the catch. But there was no catch. It was a beautifully appointed, comfortable 4 star hotel with marble bathroom, air con and the most beautiful pool we have encountered in our entire trip. And all for $15. We did have to pay $5 extra for an extra bed but we weren't about to complain.

The kids wasted no time getting into the pool and Julie and I weren't far behind. It was very hot, the sun beating down like a hammer. Amazing how a few hours alternating between a deck chair and a swimming pool can recharge the travel batteries.

We caught a tuk tuk into town for dinner and then joined the locals enjoying the warm night air along the banks of the river. Julie and Milla joined in the unique Cambodian dance craze that has dozens of people 'following the leader' in what can best be described as Asian-line-dancing-that-is-not-in-a-line. Ever since we first saw people dancing in their droves along the Mekong in Kampong Cham, Julie has been itching to join in. Of course one dance is never enough, so us boys did what boys do best at dances, lurked sheepishly around the margins and watched the girls do their thing.

We arranged for our friendly tuk tuk driver to take us on a tour of the local sights the following day. First stop was Battambang's famous bamboo train. Taking advantage of the fact that the local train line is not used much anymore, the locals have developed their own home grown (literally) train service. Take a couple of train wheels, put a bamboo platform on top and chuck on a small motor and away you go. What started as a cheap form of transport for local villagers has become something of a tourist attraction.

We turned up, paid our dollars and were off. It is a rather unusual sensation, clacking along, more or less at ground level, with no visible means of support or propulsion. Best part of the trip is when you meet another train coming in the opposite direction. We had to give way to them, which meant disassembling our vehicle, letting them go past, then putting our train back together. Amazingly the whole process takes only a few minutes.

The warped tracks, big bumps and complete lack of any suspension mean that long trips would be less than appealing but it was certainly a unique Cambodian experience.

Next we tuk tuked our way to a local limestone moutain, crowned with a buddhist temple and a memorial to some of the local victims or the Khmer Rouge's murderous regime.

We were delivered to the foot of the mountain and straight into the clutches of the local motorbike mafia. "You walk up 1258 steps in hot sun or take motorbike to top?", was the rather loaded question that greeted us. The kids look horrified when we responed by saying, "it's OK, we'll walk to the top." We set off towards the stairs, preying they wouldn't call our bluff. After bargaining the price down from $12 for 3 motorbikes to $4 for 2 motorbikes we agreed. Somehow we all squeezed onto two motorbikes and zoomed up to the summit.

The following day we hire the brother of our tuk tuk driver to drive us to Phnom Penh. We were there in a few hours and into the waiting arms of the Hotel Goldiana and our third pool in a row.

We enjoyed three days in Phnom Penh, mainly just hanging out in some of the great family oriented cafes. Australia could really learn a lot from Cambodia in this regard. We went to three cafes that had fantastic kids playgrounds and a great children's menu (not a sausage roll or cup of cordial to be seen) while still being a enjoyable place for adults to relax.

Apart from a bit of basic sightseeing (which the kids are well and truly over after 11 weeks) and a visit to the excellent markets we spent a lot of time lounging by the pool before catching the bus to Ho Chi Minh city, our last bus trip of the journey - yippee!

Now that we are back in Ho Chi Minh we are taking it very easy. We are staying in a lovely 4 star hotel as something of a treat for our last few days away. Once again we are spending a lot of time swimming in the hotel pool. After 11 weeks of travel the kids are very excited to be heading home. We have all had an incredible time, and not surprisingly have learnt as much about each other as we have about Vietnam, Laos and Cambodia.

---

Photos

All aboard
With the bamboo train's unique layout, everyone has a window seat.

Front row seats
Although you are told that regular trains don't use this track much, it's hard not to keep scanning the horizon for a oncoming freight train.

Where did our train go
Of course when you do meet oncoming traffic (in this case another bamboo train) the carriage is dismantled in seconds to allow the other to pass.

Is that it?
Yep, a few wheels with a bamboo platform resting on top. Add one engine and you're ready to roll.

Instant train - just add bamboo
We were all thinking the same thing at this point. Are we actually going to get back onto that thing and fly down the tracks?

Luxury
Amazing what $15 per night can get you in Battambang.

Sleeping arrangments
Milla and Reuben got very used to sharing a single bed. Reuben's legenday ability to sleep through anything extends to a prolonged kick in the throat from his sister.

Lock up the silverware
Jude getting ready to storm the palace in Phnom Penh.

Comments

[Paul& Bob]

Asian experience
What a fantastic holiday!

[Gwen Lansbury]

fantastic travel notes, have enjoyed them so much. Felt that I was travelling with you. Many thanks for sharing these stories . Hope settling in at home is not too difficult -no bamboo train to take the children to school!