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Published: August 8th 2007
A constant reminder
I'm standing in a crater created by a B-52 bomb, one of many in Cu Chi.Today is the day we stood face to face with history. Moments like these are so intense that they shake my soul. The most profound of these moments was in the summer of 2000 when I visited Cape Coast Castle in Ghana. My mind was blown away as I toured this one time slave castle, looking out of the “Door of No Return” and envisioning the journey of my ancestors involved in the trans-Atlantic slave trade. Standing in the male dungeon, two levels below the church and wondering to what God those satanic slave drivers prayed to. A similar, but less profound experience occurred when I visited Anne Frank’s House in Amsterdam. In both situations, I could even still feel the wickedness surrounding those events about me. The only difference is that this time, my American roots make me the evil one. What a conundrum!
The American War from anther point of view For the next three days, we have a personal tour guide (Euy, pronounced “we”) and driver (Quyen). They pick us up at 8:30am for a 70km drive northwest of Saigon to Cu Chi. On the way, we stopped to check out an orchard of rubber trees
A rubber tree plantation
Imported from Brasil, the climate in Vietnam is suitable for cultivating the sap-like extract (latex), the primary source of natural rubber. (MELI FEEL FREE TO SAY MORE). The Cu Chi tunnels are a network of underground tunnels extending over 250km that underlie most of the country. The tunnels came about haphazardly in 1948; the Viet Minh used the tunnels at that time to hide during French air and ground sweeps. Over the years, the network and its complexity grew. During the American War, or Vietnam War for those of you in the USA, the National Front for the Liberation of South Vietnam (also known as Viet Cong) used the tunnels extensively. They functioned like underground cities (though that is a bit of an overstatement). They were makeshift hospitals, hiding spots, communication and supply routes, food and weapon caches, and living quarters. The Cu Chi tunnels were also the base of the Tet Offensive in 1968. Today, it is one of the country's prime tourist attractions, part of a new industry of war tourism. This place seems to be a memorial to both the war itself and wartime propaganda. But can you blame them? Upon arrival, tourists are directed to through saloon style swinging doors to a room playing a short documentary about Cu Chi and the tunnels. A TV in the
Cu Chi Tunnels
Weapons on display in the same room with the Cu Chi documentary showing middle of the room takes you back in time, showing footage of B-52's dropping strings of bombs, villagers running for cover, communist guerrillas fighting back. For those who still don't get the message, a narrator says:
"Cu Chi, the land of many gardens, peaceful all year round under shady trees ... Then mercilessly American bombers have ruthlessly decided to kill this gentle piece of countryside ... Like a crazy bunch of devils they fired into everything--property, people, even statues of Buddha... The Americans wanted to turn Cu Chi into a dead land, but Cu Chi will never die."
First, we encountered a camouflage trap door that Meli and I slipped into for a photo op. Past air vents disguised as termite mounds, we see a tank destroyed by a land mine. I climbed in for another photo op. Off in the distance is a canopy covered area with hammocks and dummies dressed in war apparel simulating nightlife for the VC. They spent most days resting and working underground and came out at night for fresh air, to tend to their crops, and to antagonize “the enemy.” In fact, most of the supplies used to build and maintain the tunnels
were stolen or scavenged from U.S. bases or troops. We see a weapons gallery, where they display several guerilla tactics used to protect against American infiltration of their hideouts, and mannequins reacting how weapons were made. We get great video footage of both. The underground kitchens were sophisticated with vents channeling smoke far away from the living areas where it would dissipate through a number of small holes so it wouldn’t be visible from the air. Most of the cooking was done in the early morning so that the smoke coming from the ground blended in with the morning mist. While touring, we continually hear guns firing, giving the feeling the war is still raging on. I don’t know if that’s the purpose, but the National Defense Sports Shooting Range is on the premises and each time a shot is fired Meli would jump. Every single time. No sensitization here. The highlight of the morning is the shooting range where, for $1/bullet, you can fire an AK-47. We buy five rounds and I let Meli have the fun. She misses the target deer with her four shots and I miss with the last round. Oh well, we would have been
Model of the Cu Chi Tunnels
The tunnels consisted of three levels. The levels got progessively smaller and penetrated as deep as 25ft. The third level was for hiding from the bombing campaign. Top level was up to 6ft tall. medics anyway.
Déjà vu in Vietnam The last stop of the morning is a picnic. One more photo op, though, before munching on a typical Viet Cong meal consisting of tamarind, ground peanuts and tea. This penultimate stop is another one of those moments that gives you chills: standing in a crater created by a B-52 bomb. It’s almost comical how poorly the USA, with all of its bombs and military advancements, fared in guerilla warfare. We spent the entire morning learning secrets of yesteryear that led to the communist victory. On the ride back to Saigon, I have a déjà vu moment. Reflecting on the morning, I can’t help but feel like I’ve known a war, in my lifetime, where similar guerilla war-like tactics were stifling the opposition on a daily basis. I recall hearing a quote, something like if you don’t know your history, you’re doomed to repeat it. Tant pis!
*Later this week we will visit the formerly named “Museum of American War Crimes”
A touristy look a Saigon Lunch at Indochine is a set menu. This is a pseudo tourist attraction because this is where the 50 passenger tourist buses end up. The
Cu Chi Tunnels: Trap Door
I'm entering a camouflaged trap door. Now you see me... tourist companies either get a discount for bringing people here or they have a contract with them I’m convinced. Luckily for us, we arrived about an hour before two busloads are dumped on the doorsteps. Euy tells us that it is popular as much for the food as it is the architecture. In a French colonial, shuttered building, with a wide open courtyard and central fountain, there are hints of Vietnamese, French, and Chinese heritage. We dine on spring rolls, beef in honey sauce, fish in a clay pot, soup with vegetables and fish, rice, fruit platter and coffee. I could not resist the urge to order mango juice and it is finished downed it 30 seconds after it hit the table.
Towards the center of town, we tour a couple of ostentatious reminders of French rule, namely Notre Dame Cathedral and the adjacent General Post Office, adorned with names like La Place, Descartes, Louis XI. No visit to Saigon is complete with riding the cyclos—a bike with a carriage up front for one person. We ride through Chinatown...and in the middle of traffic! Terrifying! One minute we are cruising back streets with vendors selling huge bags of rice,
spices, TVs, fruits, toys, live and dead animals, the next minute motorcycles are coming head on, cars from perpendicular streets merge onto our street without stopping nearly sideswiping us. Not trying to freak you out Bob, just telling the story. Wait to you see the video! The adrenaline flows with ease. We are dropped off near a bridge and wait for the car to pick us up. Two preteen boys walk by, one of them staring at me. When he gets in front of me, he stops. Puts his crevice between his thumb and index finger under his chin, stares, tilts his head, smiles, and continues staring. My impression is that he is thinking
I’ve never seen a Black man or
this dude is looks famous but I’m not quite sure who he is. I am wearing my Brasil soccer jersey, so maybe that threw him off.
“That’s not good price” at the Ben Thanh Market The final stop of the day is the Ben Thanh, the busiest market in Saigon for almost a century. The maze of narrow aisles, arranged by product, are lined with sellers flashing things in your face, tugging at your shirt, and working hard
Cu Chi Tunnels: Bunker
With an accessible entrance to the tunnels. to get you to stop to check out their stuff. You name it, they have it, including live eels, frogs tied together at the legs, hens, and more knockoffs than you can name. The one necessity I’m lacking, which comes in handy at markets like this, is a pair of sunglasses. I picked this trick up in Africa. Eye contact is what engages the seller; if they can’t see your eyes, you’re hassled less often. I’m in the market for a couple of tailored shirt because Jak said they are dirt cheap. No tailors at this market, but we fancy a stroll nonetheless. I decide to stop at one stall and ask for a long sleeve, collared shirt. One, two, three seconds later, there is s pile of “Ralph Lauren” shirts in my lap. All colors of the rainbow. Their downfall is that they do not have a shirt without pockets or one without those annoying collar buttons. The saleslady leaves and comes back with everything but pocketless/collar buttonless shirts. I’m a picky shopper. Once, Meli and I spent 7 hours in the mall in Rio de Janeiro. She can see that I’m not budging and pleads, “buy one, just
Cu Chi Tunnels: US tank
Watch out for that land mine! Too late. one for me, please.” All the while, Meli has been getting worked over.
MELI_______________
It is fun for the first five minutes, then we get bored because they don’t have what we are looking for; but they won’t let us leave. My lady pulls out an antique calculator displaying the price she’ll give me a shirt for, 170,000 VND ($11). I take the calculator and press am about to press at least 90,000, but what Meli tells me to say 80,000. There’s a bit of Roy Lee Sims in her too I guess. She’s steeper than I am. Geez. “That’s not good price!” (SHIRT PUT ON MELI’S HEAD). Ok, we’ve had enough and we leave. The rest of the market is less anxiety inducing. It’s been a long day though, and we are ready to end the tour for today. It’s also 4:45pm, so the tour is about to end anyway.
In search of a tailor The blank mission at the market wet our appetite for clothing. Jak told us, “when you get to Vietnam, go straight to a tailor.” A day behind, but the search has started. We leave Star Hotel on foot with a hand
Cu Chi Tunnels: US tank
I'm curious to see what's inside. Also, this is a good photo op. Euy said it was ok to climb in. drawn map of the neighborhood from the receptionist. She tells us that there is a tailor a few blocks away. Did she say a few blocks? She means 5km. Meli is a trooper on the streets of Saigon. My baby is almost run over three blocks into the walk. We wait for a red light to turn green. There are two bikers on the sidewalk waiting also. One goes behind us, and one stalls and then cuts her off in the crosswalk. On and on we walk. We pop in a couple of stores, the first of which (Chuong) is not selling cheap suits. I did not come to Vietnam to pay $90 for suit. Jak says he had one tailor made for $40. The next place has shirts that I’m interested in, however, Meli is not feeling them. “They lack sheen.” Basically, she is saying the shirts look old, worn, stunk up and damned. Finally we stop to ask for directions, 4.9km later, and discover that we are two blocks away.
The original destination, I think it was called King’s Veston on Hai Ba Trung, had some nice suits and rows of material for making one from scratch.
The first jacket I pick up is already purchased and being held for someone. So I hit the racks of material, looking for something that screams, “Sir Lee.” I find it: a grayish blue fabric with subtle orange stripes that I would enhance with that perfect necktie. To the calculator. 3,500,000VDN.
Meli knows that when I love something and want to buy it that it’s hard for me to play the walk away game. But I refuse to pay $220 for a suit. “Those are crack prices,” as Chappelle would say. I tell her to make me a better offer because I really want to buy. I’m reaching in my pocket ready to pull out my credit card when she punches in the new price 3,3392,000VND. She took off $8. I’m salty. Insulted, I walk out! $8… I’m still mad about that.
Humbled to poverty, Pho it is The dinner last night created the illusion that I was rich. Humbled back to poverty, I hail a taxi and we head back towards Star. We walk around the neighborhood looking for food. The magic spot: Pho 24. Pho is a Vietnamese, flat rice noodle served in a soup. Typically,
Cu Chi Tunnels: Weapons Gallery
Door trap. The GI's would kick in a door and the spiked trap would drop down. meat, bean sprouts, basil, onions, leeks, chili sauce, sweet sauce (that I don’t know the name of) can be added for more flavor. We both went for the special: Pho, spring rolls, and a beer, all for 63,000VND ($3.94) each. Hey Oprah…I’m BACK!
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guerillas, cyclos and fruit
that was hilarious -- guerillas are not mickey mouse! all those barrels on one bike? i like fruit pictures. you have to see my big mango pictures. terran was carrying them...