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Published: April 21st 2009
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Every good duo has a flaw. Team budget has a major flaw: shopping.
For the most part we have been absolutely flawless when it comes to budget. Cheapest street eats, 7/11 beers, you have read the blogs you know!!! But what has not been reported are the few cracks in between. Those "cracks" have so far consisted of a few items in Hong Kong, various standard beach wear from Bangkok and replacement flip flops. Until now. Until Vietnam. Until Hoi An ! This small, and lovely city, should have a sign about 5 kms out that says "Get out your credit cards immediately." Hoi An is the land of tailor made. Imagine this: you walk into a trendy downtown Queen Street store in Toronto and your eyes lay upon the most fabulous pair of brown 100% leather boots, the ones you have been dreaming about for your perfect fall debut! But, alas, they only have one size left (not yours, of course), in black and the price tag was off the radar anyways. Shame. Not so in Hoi An. You can even invent your perfect pair of boots from 6 different styles (ie. take this toe shape, and I will
take this reddish/brown leather, no, smaller heel, silver buckles, and slightly shorter, no shorter...that's it! Perfect). If the store doesn't have the particular shade leather, you're immediately thrown onto a motorbike and heading to the leather market to pick your favourite shade. We had so many receipts and appointments in our wallets we could not keep track of where we were suppose to be in any hour of the day, for 4 days straight. And going to different stores was like being a traitor to another. My sandal lady caught me with penned boot markings up my leg for measurments. The look on her face was complete sadness, and mine, pure shame.
Our acquired assets ......4 suits, 2 pairs of pants, 3 boots (one for my sister, come on we are not completely out of control!), 6 shoes, 5 sandals, 1 skirt, 2 dresses .....are now in (2) 2 x 3 cardboard boxes, on a ship sailing across the Pacific ocean like a note in a message bottle back to the Western world. It reads: Look what you've created. If it helps, our tailored suits (cashmere/wool mix with 100% silk lining) almost made us desire acquiring jobs...... Pshhh, I
said "almost". The moment faded and we were on our way to the beach stopping for Pho soup on the way.
Ever since Saigon (our first stop in Vietnam) we have been on a solid mission of finding Pho soup and eating it everyday - literally. We can't get enough. Albeit, it is not exactly the same as Pho at home, there are good, okay, and two places have been great (which equates to tasting like 88 on Spadina which we still hold the best Pho in the world!). Saigon is also an absolute cluster fuck of mopeds and various Asian madness. But the big city feel gives Ho Chi Mihn a cool vibe as well. The markets are a bit weak (yet upholding the disgusting stank of dried fish that every country in SEA hails). The Chu Chi Tunnels were a major excursion in the city, especially since we knew very little about the Vietnam war. It is questionable that we really know, even know, the solid "facts" of the war as we sat watching a documentary of how the innocent Vietnamese sat working the rice fields, as the evil devil faced Americans came and killed the unsuspecting
villagers....not sure how that one went down in American history books. Regardless, we had an interesting day. Alex led the charge through the tunnels, which are a claustrophobics literal nightmare. 3 x 2 foot tunnels that stretched some 200km where the Vietnamese defended themselves through the war. Alex led the entire group of 30 through the dark tunnels, vaguely lit with dim lights every few meters. After telling us never to move backwards while in the tunnel, I started about 3 meters, absolutely freaked and backed my ass into an unsuspecting English man who wailed at me to "hold up!!!" She was certainly the hero of the day. You could almost tip your hat to her being a clever representation of the savvy Vietnamese (now ruling) Communists and me, the American (bullying) Democrats - if you were so bold.
Nah Trang was a little lack luster, but certainly a nice town. We had a few pros and cons in this town. A con would absolutely be the main beach. This goes back to my original point of every country in SEA being compared to another. Nah Trang had nothing up against Shianoukville and of course, Thailand's beaches. We did
however enjoy fresh lobster on the beach, picnic style with some wonderful Swedish friends we met. Our favourite coffee lady was another plus, she brought us free cookies and tea (even though we ordered coffee everyday) just because she loved us. And, us her. Jenga, pool and karaoke made for a few fabulous nights and our Swedish friends took us on their mopeds so we could explore more of the city, including a better beach and an abandoned resort. Jokes were made before entering this area, noting the possibility of snakes and/or landmines. Lets just say the situation quickly soured as I ran fleeing for the gates and back to the safety of the road. Oh, and our 10,000 dong hooded raincoats - absolute amazing.
Sleeper buses are another phenomenon worth a diddy. These fantastically advanced methods of transportation are a traveler's best friend for distances greater that 12 hours. These buses allow you (even at 6 foot tall) to stretch out your legs and curl up with a pillow, a sweater due to steady A/C, and sleep alway the night in comfort and ease to wake at your destination in what feels like an hour! Did I say
genius?!!! The only interesting part is not knowing who you are sleeping beside if you get the back beds. For the most part they are reserved for foreigners. On our last sleeper I timid girl walked up to 5 traveling dudes sprawled across the beds, leaving one vacant. This is how the scene unfolded:
Girl: "Well.....um...I guess I am bunking with you, er...... boys?
Boy: "Dear diary. Jackpot!!!"
Now in Laos, stay tuned for updates on tubing, caves and other various commentary to come.
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