Same, Same but different, or Even Better

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The Overnight train 1st Class

We leave Ho Minh City to take the night train to Nha Trang, this time compared to the overnight train in India this was to be a comfortable experience as we had been booked onto the 1st class carriage, and this proved to be the better way to travel. We boarded the train just before 8pm and the group of 12 were divided into 3 compartments, so me, Paul, Allison & Colin shared the 4 berth sleeper completed with flat screen TV and Air-Con. The train pulled away at 8.05pm (On time, take note British Trains) and we watched from the windows hundreds of people on the streets of Ho Minh City on their bike waiting behind the barriers on the roads as we crossed in front of them, hundreds of bright lights and the atmosphere slowly disappearing into the night air. The room was made up with 4 beds with sheets, blankets and pillows and was a hundred time more comfortable than the ones l travelled on in India.

Another morning, another town

Backed by beautiful rolling hills which descend into the mountains, and with a grand boulevard lining the beachfront, Nha Trang is reminiscent of Nice in France, yet in a sleepier, more peaceful manner. It is comprised of a number of large bays with beaches that stretch for miles, overlooked by a palace on the headland and protected from storms and rough weather by the islands at the mouth of the bay. These islands are recognised as nature reserves, and around their rocky shores are a great variety of coral and sea life, which has made Nha Trang one of the most popular scuba diving destinations in Vietnam.

Early every morning and each evening around sunset the local citizens go down to the beach to meet, swim, and exercise, but due to work, and the Vietnamese preference of shade to the sunshine the beaches are empty once again from 9am - 4pm. You will find clusters of tourists around the beach bars but otherwise the beach is spacious and yours to wander and play.

Nha Trang is a large city by the sea in South-Central Vietnam. One of the most popular beach destinations in South Vietnam, it has plenty to cater for the tourists, yet it also has a life of its own, populated with university students, trainees at the naval academy, and many more. As soon as we arrived at the hotel just after 7.30am we were given time to relax before we re-grouped for the afternoon. So the group re-forms at 1pm and we all climb on the back of our own motorbike taxi and are given a tour of Nha Trang and the fantastic areas this town has to offer. First stop is the Long Son Pagoda, the entrance and roofs are decorated with dragon mosaics which are built from glass and ceramic tiles. The main ceremonial hall is adorned with modern interpretations of classical motifs. The nasal hairs of the dragons are wrapped around the pillars on either side of the main altar. The main statue in 152 stone steps up from the entrance of the pagoda, and is often used as a vantage point to look over the city of Nha Trang. (Kim Than Phat To) seated on a lotus blossom and visible from all over the city. The platform around the 14m-high figure, which was built in 1963, has great views of Nha Trang and nearby rural areas. As you approach the pagoda from the street it reminded me of the white statues l saw in Sri Lanka and were yet again a joy to see. The Pagoda was first built on Mount Trai Thuy in 1886 and named Dang Long Pagoda. In 1900, the Pagoda was damaged in a storm and was rebuilt down the mountain in its present location. The Khanh Hoa Buddhist Studies Foundation originated here in 1936. The pagoda underwent further restorations in 1940, 1971, and 1975. Among the interesting things to see is the naturally lit image of Buddha displayed in this pagoda. There is also the 14-m red brass statue of Buddha sitting on a lotus pedestal. This pagoda was built to commemorate the monks and nuns who died while fighting against the Diem government.

The pagoda, which has resident monks, was founded in the late 19th century and has been rebuilt several times over the years. The entrance and roofs are decorated with mosaic dragons constructed of glass and bits of ceramic tile. The main sanctuary is an attractive hall adorned with modern interpretations of traditional motifs. Note the ferocious nose hairs on the colourful dragons wrapped around the pillars on either side of the main altar. We leave to re-join our motorbike taxi and take a hair rising ride through the busy streets.

Another great site, and more stairs to climb

The Po Nagar Cham Towers is one of the many relics of the Champa Kingdom, which was the most significant power in South Vietnam from 200 - 1720 AD. Despite being a major trading civilization, it never wielded a great deal of power, and so never really competed with the Khmers in the south or Viets in the North. The Cham civilization had spread from Ancient India, and it is interesting to see some similarities between the design of Cham monuments and some others within India.

In Nha Trang the Cham Ponagar temple complex (locally refered to as Thap Ba) is situated on a hill just outside the city, and is reached by crossing the Cai River from the main tourist stretch. At the complex there are four towers remaining from an original eight, each of which shows differences in style, indicated they were built over an extended period between the seventh and 12th centuries AD. The largest, which stands at 23m high, was built in 817 AD and contains a lingham and a statue dedicated to Ponagar, or Lady Thien Y-ana, the beautiful wife of Prince Bac Hai.

It is said that Lady Thien Y-ana taught new agricultural and weaving techniques to people of the area, and in gratitude they built the tower to honour her. Other towers in the complex are dedicated to gods - the central tower is in honour of Cri Cambhu, and is thought to bless devotees with fertility, so is visited by childless couples. In the North West lies a tower dedicated to Sandhaka, a wood cutter and foster father to Ponagar, and the tower in the south was dedicated to Ganeca, the daughter of Ponagar. The next part of our journey takes us away from the busy streets and down dirt tracks and little villages near the hills.

Mud, Mud Glorious Mud

The Hot Spring Center in Nha Trang was a wonderful place to relax and be pampered. We booked a package here which included hire of towels and swimming shorts. There is no way you can't relax when your body is immersed in a private hot mud bath which is the consistency of melted chocolate - if only. Then we lay in the sun until the mud baked onto our skin and washed it off under a hot mineral spring water shower. We spent the rest of the day sitting in a hot mineral spring bath with a herbal bag filled with cinnamon, all-spice, cloves and other great herbs and spices. The water everywhere is boiling hot, even under the waterfall, so the only way to cool down is to get out of the water. Once dry and changed into fresh shorts we are treated to the best foot massage ever, the young lady even pressed a pencil like wooden thing into the soles of my feet, which stimulated different parts of the body. This is then finished off by leg, shoulder and even head & face message.

What is Same, Same, but different?

It could be the saying that is seen & heard everywhere in Thailand and Vietnam or even the hundreds of T-Shirts that sport the saying on loads of tourists, but tonight it was the great Restaurant we went to for our evening meal. If was also the first time the group could have non-Vietnamese food. Tonight for me was one of those nights and l opted for Fish & Chips which were fantastic and a little bit of home. (but no guys, I’m not home sick yet)

Fisherman's Island and children everywhere

The next morning we leave the hotel at 9am and take a boat ride from the harbour to a small island not far from the main land. The Fisherman Island is exactly what it says on the tin, we could see hundreds of Greek like blue wooden fishing boats in the docks. They mainly fish for squid here and you could even see the large halogen light rigging that they used at night to fool the squid into thinking it’s the sun, so they come up to the surface and you guessed it, caught into the nets above. We were taken around the island and every few minutes loads of small children shouted "Hello" in the cutest Vietnamese accents. It is the norm for fisherman & farming families to have on average 7 children. This helps them once they reach about 7 or 8 as they can help with the family business. We then leave for a sail round to another island were we stop for some snorkelling and even a seafood meal on board the boat. Fresh BBQ Squid, Prawns, Noodles and some great chilli Green Beans too.

So I’m eating Lamb Shank, White Chocolate Cheesecake with Passion Fruit and I’m in Vietnam?

The group tonight decided to eat at a fantastic restaurant that we had walked pass the previous evening and the beach-front Sandals restaurant, presents an intimate yet sophisticated ambience nestled against the white sandy beach with stunning views of the South China Sea.

Sandals offers a totally unique food concept, combining flavours of Asia, Mediterranean and pacific rim, expertly prepared with only the freshest of local, national and international ingredients. Sandals food culture is driven by master chef Lizette Crabtree (SA), who ensures that no compromise is made in quality, freshness of produce or dish presentation. Sandals continuously strive to enhance your dining experience by providing attentive service, unique design and a breathtaking view. It was a perfect way to end our visit to Nha Trang.

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Photos

Cable Cars going to an island
The cable car travels 15 minutes to a 5 star resort on its own island.

Comments

[Fab]

spectacular!!!!
Your blogs are so inspiring Geoff!!!! and photo's spectacular....enjoy it all babe x

[penny]

hey
hey hun thnanks for the latest of your travels you seem to be enjoying it all so much still xx