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Published: February 2nd 2016
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After our initial this-is-ok with the room and getting into bed in all our clothes waiting for the electric blanket and heater to kick in, we noticed a big big draught from the window. It didn't seem to close, and looking harder there was a 2cm gap at the top where you could see straight through to the 4 degrees outside. Closing the curtain didn't help. After shivering for an hour I went downstairs to see if they could move us. Sadly, booking.com said there was only a quad or a dorm bed for tonight. Didn't fancy it. The guy on the desk said immediately 'Window not close?'. He came up, fiddled with the wire on the handle, closed the curtain and started to leave. Nonono! He said bed warm, heater, is OK. Not OK! So I google imaged tape and mimed taping it up. He trotted off and came back with a giant roll of sellotape. He put 2 layers over the gaps and voila! No draught. We showered and stayed in bed for 3 more hours until warmed up, eating cheesy ritz biscuits and Oreos for breakfast.
Eventual braved it outside into thick thick fog - couldn't see
hand in front of face, making the traffic much more challenging. People are transporting huge Tet equivalent Chrisrmas trees, one swiped me on the head. We set off down (it is a very hilly place) as I thought town was down, came to a sign which said Catcat village this way. Back up and over the other side. Our first encounter with the minute and very persistent Black Hmong women, looking so young, most with babies tied to their backs. 'Where you from? You buy something? Shopping. Why not? Maybe later?' and took refuge in a restaurant where one was going through the bins opposite for recycling and another very old one stared at us in through the window the whole time. It was very unnerving. Luckily she found some backpackers to follow. We do want to buy from them, and make sure they get our money rather than the swanky shops, but needed to get our bearings. It is just about impossible in the fog. Then heard 'Rachel' and it was my niece Laura and Stuart again, hurrying to find cash before their bus left, so we yomped after them, Stuart navigating using his phone. The bank was busy
but we could change money without our passports and carefully checked the rate she gave us. All OK and solvent again. Negotiated back to the hotel, but so frustrated by the weather. We knew it was a risk coming at this time of year but we could well end up leaving without seeing anything at all of the views. We went to the Tourist Office to ask about tickets for Catcat Village. There was a sign saying not to buy from women in the street, presumably they want all the money to go to official places. Having googled a bit, it would seem that the women who work for a tour company get a tiny fraction of what the tourists pay, so better to use
Back to bed, electric blanket on again, a few more hours of trying to stay warm. More snacks. Found out that Sam had gone out with 2 socks on one foot and only one on the other. She is losing track of whether she is wearing yesterday's, today's or tomorrow's, probably all at the same time....
Out for drinks and dinner. The Black Hmong were still out, standing still in the mist add
then swooping across the road. It is soooooo spooky, especially in the fog. Sam said it's like a Jim Hensen movie, and we are expecting a little creature to pop out of the baskets they carry on their backs. We were trying to track down the Mountain View Pub (Lonely Planet) but it seemed not to be just after Pinoccio Hotel, so we went to the Hmong Sisters Bar instead. Quite a few wasted people, but friendly bar guy and Sam was offered dope. This always happens. She just has That Look about her. A drunken French guy lurched over, but we were very uneasy about him and I saw him off. Then dinner, although one place had stopped serving, at 8pm. So basically the whole day was eating and trying to stay warm. Tomorrow we will try to walk to Catcat Village on our own bout know we will be accosted all the way.
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