Sa Pa and the Ethnic Market Trap

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It's been a few days since the last blog and the big news to share with you is that we finally made it across the border and we're now busy enjoying the wonders of North Vietnam. We're in Sa Pa, a small town in the mountains not a million miles away from the border but far enough now to feel really free of all things Chinese! Our journey from Kunming on the overnight sleeper bus was much more pleasant this time. The beds were a bit longer and the roads didn't feel as bumpy so we actually managed to get a decent amount of sleep. When we arrived in Hekou, we saw the Chinese guy that helped us out last time we were there. He was totally surprised to see we had made it back so quickly - I guess that's a sign of how determined we were to leave China.

We went straight to the border crossing, filled out all the forms (again) and waited in line. The border police scrutinised my passport as thoroughly as they did last time and I must have been waiting for at least 15 minutes before they questioned me about having tried to cross the border 2 days ago. At that point, Glynn joined me at the desk (he had been next in line) and told them he too had tried to cross earlier. I don't know about Glynn but I was having thoughts of 'here we go again' despite feeling secure in the knowledge that all was in order with our visas this time. It took about another 10 minutes until they finally stamped our passorts and lets us through.

About bloody time!It was just a short walk across the bridge to reach the Vietnamese border control office. We were greeted by smiling faces and felt welcome already. Another round of paperwork later and we were ushered through withour any problems at all and it only took about 5 minutes :-) No sooner were we through control than we were surrounded by motorcycle taxi touts. We waved them off and instead paid for a ride by minibus to Sa Pa (25,000 Dong each which is less than a pound) and were soon chugging our way through twisty turny roads up into the mountains. We marvelled at the lush vegetation and steep slopes around us cut with terrace after terrace. Little wooden shacks lined the roadside and every now and again we caught a glimpse of some of the local tribes people selling goods by the road. Wow!

We reached Sa Pa after about an hour and were dropped off in the town square which was just brimming with ethnic people selling their wares. It was a short walk to find our hotel, The Royal Hotel. At first we weren't sure if we would have a room as we had made our booking for 2 days earlier and had only emailed to say we would be late arriving. Thankfully, although they didn't know about our delay, they honoured our booking and it turned out we got the last room - and what a room! We have a balcony with views out onto the mountains across the valley and at last we have a double bed again. Aside from a few uninvited guests (cockroaches) it's a lovely hotel, full of character.

We unpacked, showered and went out for a walk in the town but that was easier said than done. It was Saturday when we arrived you see, and Saturday is market day in Sa Pa. The whole place was heaving with tourists and ethnic people trying to flog their handicrafts. The different tribes were beautifully dressed and they were very friendly people, chatting away in pretty good English. Unfortunately the friendliness was part of the sales pitch and before long hand-made bags, cushion covers, clothes and jewellery were being thrust upon us. Despite our polite 'no thanks' they crowded around us and followed us along the street. When we managed to shake off one group of hawkers, it was only a matter of 10 steps before we were set upon by another group. Even in the market place it was packed and difficult to browse the many stalls without being surrounded by the ethnic sellers again. In essence, the market which put Sa Pa on the map has become the very thing that has destroyed the town. We were frustrated and disappointed to have been caught up in such a tourist trap.

Alas Sunday wasn't much better as the market now goes on all weekend. We did nothing exciting as we just couldn't be bothered to fight our way along the streets and had no interest in any of the tours that take you to the ethnic villages, as each one involved another market of some decription! It was a real pity as the area surrounding the town is so beautiful and we were both longing to get out and explore. Maybe tomorrow...

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