Uncle Ho Chi's Backyard, part 2.

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Hanoi

We were in a bit of a rush when we were leaving Hue, and it didn't calm down for a few days... We arrived in Hanoi, Vietnam's capital early on the morning of the 28th May. Although it was myself, Steve and Steve, we had arranged to meet the other Steve's, Steve and also Steve in an alleyway in Hanoi, from where we would buy tickets to do a cruise in Halong Bay. What a rip off!!!! Transport to and from the harbour (3 hours drive), cruise with kayaking, accomodation and food, then one day on Cat Ba Island with accomodation and dinner, less than $50!!!).

Ha Long Bay

is a UNESCO World Heritage site located in Quảng Ninh province. The bay features thousands of limestone karsts and isles in various sizes and shapes. Ha Long Bay is a center of a larger zone which includes Bái Tử Long bay to the northeast, and Cát Bà islands to the southwest. Ha Long Bay has an area of around 1,553km², incuding 1,960 islets, most of which is limestone, the core of the bay has an area of 334km² with highly denstiy of 775 islets. A cramped (very cramped) Bus journey saw us arrive at the harbour, where we were left and deserted by the tour leader for a while, before finally our junk was pointed out and we were allowed to board. Although nothing was happening, and no work was being done, we were not allowed to check in till after 2pm?! The boat was pretty standard, and looked like every other one which can be an issue when you need to pick it out. We set sail for the bay, the limestone pinnacles already clearly visible from the harbour. widning our way through, we visited a syetm of large caves on one island. They were illuminated by different coloured lights inside which ruined any beauty that may have been seen. It looked more like a something in a fairground than anything else. Moving on from here, we visited a floating fishing Village, and had a little bimble in the water in a Kayak around a couple of the pinnacles. ALL day it bhad been roasting hot, and we were pleading with the operators of the boat for a swim, and we were finally allowed JUST before sunset when it had all cooled down! We dropped anchor in a sheltered bay, next to another boat, where we proceeded to jump off the side of the boat, all 20 or so feet of it. Sunset, framed by the formations of rock made for a pretty spectacular vista before going down for dinner.
Next day we were dropped off at Cat Ba Island. We were starting to understand why the tour was so cheap by now. The tour guide was THE most annoying, controlling "Mini Hitler" we had ever come across! the whole time we spent, was controlled, minute by minute. We were pretty much forcefully checked out of our rooms, and had to have our bags out by 8am, depsite then spending another 2 hours travelling time to the island. Once on the island, we just wanted to check in to our Hotel. "Trekking" the guide said. "No, check in" was our reply. "Trekking??", "no, check in". "You must go trekking", "Nooo, CHECK IN!!!". HA!
Wikipedia says; "Cat Ba is an island of approximately 140 sq.km in Ha Long Bay, Northern Vietnam. It is commonly used as an overnight hotel stop on inexpensive package tours to Ha Long Bay run by travel agents from Hanoi." Oh. Oh right. Well that would explain a lot then. It was a pretty tacky kind of placein the town, although there were some very pretty areas and beaches. We got in some quality Frisbee time on the beach, and generally chill-axed!The power for the WHOLE Island often goes off, or is simply not switched on during the day. This means; NO COLD BEER!!!! We were having some drinks out in the street that night, and a power cut plunged the entire Island into darkness. Surreal, but a cool experience.
Next morning, picked up nice and early for the 45 min bus ride back to the waiting (yea right!) boat. Once the boat arrived, we were hearded aboard again, by the same guy, and began our journey back to the harbour. Overcrowded boat meant no seats, so floor it was. Once back on the mainland, we really just wanted to get back to Hanoi as were were tired and frustrated with the guy, but we were told we HAD to go for the free lunch included in the deal. Small busses turned up to take the 40 or so of us to the lunch place. The buses were too small, so they wanted to leave our bags on the side of the street and we go on to the lunch place without them. I don't think so pal! once we had eventually packed ourselves in, the ride was so dangerous and fast in the unbalanced bus, that many people were shouting for it to be stopped and swearing at the top of their lungs in fear the whole thing was going to crash. If you've never been in a Vietnamese bus, its hard to imagine HOW bad the journeys can be, but this was something else! The lunch was crap. No one wanted to be there, and EVERYONE wanted to get out and back to hanoi. a Bus turned up, FORD Transit, backbone of Britain. People were directed towards it, boarded, then half of them were told to get back off again. The bus drove off. Then another bus turned up, same size, but not a transit, and there were about 5 too many people to fit in. would have been more, but one girl tripped on a kerb and her and 3 mates decided to pay for a taxi back. So guess the bus was spacious compared to what it could have been. bags were under seats, on seats and behind seats. people sat on bags, seats and other people. i climbed through the window for quick access to ensure i got a seat!
There isn't much to see and do in Hanoi, apart from go to a lake and see the Water Puppets show. So, we went to the lake and watched the Water puppets show. And we all fell asleep in there. We would have slept more if we knew what was coming...

Sapa

Two ways of getting to Sapa, Bus or train. Thought we'd give the bus a miss, and picked the train. Shawn wasn't sure whether to come with us or not as his Vietnamese Visa would run out while we were there (and you hear some horrible stories of what can happen to someone staying illegally), but we persuaded him anyway. The sleeper train was actually... nice! comfortable, pretty smooth, and nice bunks. the 3 of us in a 4 bunk room, we upgraded to the LUXURY soft bunks! half way through the night, woken by Shawns snoring for which he got a battering, a small Vietnamese chappy joined us, we aren't sure where he came from though. Arrived early, got a coffee, and organised transport to the town of Sapa. The drive was beautiful, and very scenic, winding our way through the misty rice paddy fields. We got in, and had already arranged to mee the Dutchies here and ride round together. They were at the bottom of the town, in what looks, again like Dalat, a Swiss or certainly European Town. The weather was rainy, ALL day, so before we could hire the bikes and set off for a day of exploring, we had to buy some wet weather gear. See pictures later! The day was fun! we rode around, slipped and skidded, and almost came off (Gary) the mountain roads of Sapa and surrounding area. The Views were stunning, and although it would have been nice without the mist, it sometimes added to the view. After a full day, we caught the bus back to the train station, and took the train back to hanoi! only this time there were no beds. SO, we had to go in the Soft seated area! it was a nightmare. no where to put your legs, no where to lean, no where to sleep (unless you are a small Vietnamese person, who slept on the floor under seats). i was coughed on, sneezed on, slept on, poked and kept the awake pretty much the entire journey!

Hanoi

We arrived in Hanoi, Gary worse for wear went off and Slept while myself and Shawn decided to pay Uncle Ho Chi a visit. We had agreed that we needed to get to Laos sooner rather than later, due mostly to Shawn's Visa, so had booked to leave that night. 3 cups of strong black filter coffee. Myself and Shawn thought we'd keep going for the day to kake it easier to sleep on the bus. The Queue's for Ho Chi are normally HUGE, it is a big thing for the Vietnamese to come from out of town to pay their respects. however, when you are there as early as we were, no Queue's at all! bonus! a walk around the grounds, and i was greeted like a superstar! the Vietnamese from out of town don't see that many westerners, and tall ones at that! so i was asked to be in countless photo's with various people. Around Vietnam right now, there are pictures of me in peoples homes! Another Red Bull. We must have been tired and not quite with it, because we agreed to go on a cyclo trip back to the hotel where Gary was. my one and only cyclo! Once back, it was a case of killing some time while we waited for the bus pick up to take us to laos. a 24 hour bus ride, for $12! not bad. or is it?


Vietnam; Crazy, motorbikes, noisey, busy, motorbikes, cheap Tiger Beer, good beaches, motorbikes, BUS RIDES! and more motorbikes! i'll still miss it though

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