Ha Long Bay. 28th - 29th July 2010

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An 8:00am checkout and a four hour drive with our guide Mr Tom and driver took us to Ha Long bay.

The journey stretched through through rice fields, industrial areas (including a huge Canon factory), and towns of various sizes. We shared the road with all kinds of vehicles (cars, lorries, bicycles, walkers and the ubiquitous scooters) all disregarding the rules of the road with great tolerance for other drivers. We also had a range of fellow-travellers, including cows (some oin foot, one strapped securely to a scooter), pigs (at least three per scooter), boxes of chickens and ducks, as well as fruit, bread and veg of all kinds all moving along at speed.

Mr Tom was a fount of all knowledge, explaining Vietnamese history, culture and language, while pointing out various exciting or interesting sights or sites as we passed. He also told us of his childhood memories of his father going off to fight the Chiunese invaders who had moved in after the Americans had left in the 1970s (as his two uncles had both fought against the Americans, his father had not been called up at that stage). He described his father's return with great excitement - he had been out in the fields catching fish and crickets for a meal when he saw a bus pull up at his house and three men in uniform get out: one was his father. The Vietnamese had, of course, won this latest war in addition to seeing of the Americans earlier.

After a quick transfer to Ha Long Ginger, with a few spots of rain falling and black clouds looming, we were on our way, thankfully into sunshine. The junk was reassuringly solid, with dark timbers everywhere, and our own airconditioned cabin looking out over the water. We quickly relaxed into the routine of sitting on deck and watching the increasingly breath-taking scenery slide by. Tankers mingled with coracles and various sized fishing boats, all steered by Vietnamese in conical hats. The islands were large and small, all rugged and tufted with scrubby trees and bushes. We saw sea eagles but no monkeys, though Bai, the ever helpful front man explained that they were there to be seen.

Mid-afternoon saw us heave to and step into the junk's tender to visit a floating fishing village. After a quick tour of the visitor centre, we were taken on a half hour cruise by Que, one of the villagers, in her bamboo boat, past all the floating houses including her own, which allowed her to exchange a few domestic instuctions with her three daughters. She was friendly and welcoming in spite of her limited English; her rowing was both effortless and powerful, done standing up with a peculiar twisting action of the oars. The houses were spread out around a very sheltered bay, but had only just ventured out out again from the most secure central area which gave some protection from the recent typhoon. The houses were small and neat, just one room, floating on blue oil drums with bamboo platforms in front on which children played, dogs scratched and men mended boats and equipment. Sheltered from the sea breezes, it was hot even just sitting in the very bouyant boat and with the very temporary loan of traditional Vietnamese hats on. Beneath the houses were large cages into which the catch was poured each day to keep it fresh for eventual purchasers - our supper came from this village.

On return to Ha Long Ginger, it was time for a swim. Warm, very salty water made floating easy. The sun picked out every detail of the surrounding karst islands and made the water glow blue green.

Back on board, it was time for drinks and a gentle cruise to the night's anchorage. After the evening meal (spring rolls, chicken soup, green mango salad, sea bass with squid ball, and choc dessert), we sat on deck watching the moonlight play on the water and the fishing boats going out to work. We were rocked to sleep gently by the waters.

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Photos

Ha Long Bay
our cabin

Ha Long Bay
Fishing boat

Ha Long Bay
Young fisherman at work

Ha Long Bay
Fellow travellers

Ha Long Bay
Dusk at sea

Comments

[jo]

Sounds amazing! I'm even more impressed that mum is on a boat! x