Huế, Vietnam

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Huế is a city in central Vietnam just south of the former DMZ (demilitarized-zone). It is significant for several reasons. The Nguyen Dynasty moved the capital from Hanoi to Huế during the 19th and first part of the 20th centuries. The Huế Citadel, from which they ruled, dominates the north side of the Perfume River that flows through the middle of Huế. The walled compound contains beautiful temples and royal living quarters with an iconic flag tower in front.


Huế is also famous for the elaborate tomb compounds that honor Nguyen Dynasty Emperors. The tomb of Tu Duc is a large, serene park with several buildings and a lake. It was built during his lifetime and he enjoyed the grounds frequently. It was interesting to sit on the Xung Khiem pavilion where 150 years ago Tu Duc would recite his poetry to his 104 wives and many concubines. That much action and he never had any children.


Huế was also significant during the American War (Vietnam War). It was part of South Vietnam, but was taken for a couple weeks by the North Vietnamese during the 1968 Tet Offensive. For two weeks the Communist flag flew from the Citadel flag tower. During the battle of Huế, many people were killed and many historic monuments were destroyed by the American effort to retake the city and the North Vietnamese committed a brutal massacre.


I had tea with a local man at his self-built shack on the bank of the Perfume River. His father had fought in the South Vietnamese army and was sent to a re-education camp following the war. He told stories of how Huế was affected during the war and how its changed since.

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