An underground undercover weekend


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Asia » Vietnam » North Central Coast » Quang Tri » Dong Ha
July 28th 2007
Published: August 5th 2007
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Saturday 28th July
This morning started off with some bad news from Uyen - his motor bike had broken down but "everything OK - it will be fixed". He came over from DaNang last night and stayed with his relatives before picking me up this morning. So we went to An Lo and waited for his bike to be fixed and we then set off heading north out of Hue. We travelled to Dong Ha via Highway 1 - a very busy highway as goes to Hanoi. Many many trucks and buses to watch out for as they certainly belt along. And you wonder whether their loads are going to stay on. Just what they put on the buses - and you just wonder too, if they reach their destination all in tact. What amuses me is to see just how many bikes are put on the top with the little man hanging on to a couple. The countryside on this highway is quite different to the usual travelling I have done - very flat and there is a lot of sandy soil. The rice paddies are still around of course and the water buffalo. As we travelled along, we were
At Vinh Moc TunnelsAt Vinh Moc TunnelsAt Vinh Moc Tunnels

Beach at Tunnels
never very far from many rivers and the boats on them. Seemed to be lots and lots of haystacks along this route - these are used for fuel instead of gas for cooking so they are all over Vietnam. You felt rather strange crossing the Ben Hai River as your thoughts went back to this being the divide of North and South Vietnam during the war. There is the old bridge and new here. Travelled further on and we came to the ocean and looked so inviting but our destination today was the Vinh Moc Tunnels. Followed the beach for a while and then arrived at the tunnels. These tunnels are amazing and you just can't imagine how life was in them. There is so much written about them, I won't go into all the history of them here. As you creep along inside my mind was going ten to the dozen thinking how life under here was for the people. And to think that there were 17 babies born in the "delivery" room. Is so hard to imagine just how Vietnam has suffered from the war. After being in the tunnels for quite some time, we came out high
Coming out of Vinh Moc tunnelsComing out of Vinh Moc tunnelsComing out of Vinh Moc tunnels

Me coming out of the terrible Vinh Moc tunnels. Picture doesn't show the perspiration pouring off me and the way my legs felt - jellified!!!! Just wondered how so many people survived for so many months down there How people lived in them and even produced 17 babies is beyond me.
on a bluff that looked down to the sea. We then headed for the town of Dong Hoi but our journey was stopped abruptly when Uyen was pulled over by the police. He had not done anything wrong but was a good opportunity to get some "foreigner" money. Will say no more on my favourite - don't think so - people. If I had not paid the requested 100,000 Uyen would have lost his licence and that piece of paper is his livelihood. So when we arrived at Dong Hoi we were both feeling a bit annoyed. Dong Hoi is a very pretty coastal town although time didn't permit a long look around and by this time my body was saying - hey have a rest. I did that and missed my dinner. So caught up on my sleep.
Sunday 29th July
Up at 6.00 and went to the cafe for a hearty breakfast and coffee and we set off for the 40 odd kilometres to Phuong Nha caves. These are the largest caves in Vietnam. Uyen had to wait patiently while I did the trip as he joined me up with a group of strangers. They welcomed me and
Travelling towards  Phong Nha cavesTravelling towards  Phong Nha cavesTravelling towards Phong Nha caves

Beautiful countryside travelling towards Phong Nha caves
took care of me. In particular, two lovely young lads from Hanoi who were on the trip with their parents. There are just hundreds of dragon boats transporting people for the hour long trip up the river and when you get to the entrance of the cave it is quite an exercise as the boats were coming and going. Well, these caves are just indescribable - Magnificent is just not good enough. It was quite eerie creeping along and then there would be part of the cave lit up and then we would slink along a bit further until we got to Dong Bi Ky Grotto. We got off the little boats here and wandered along to see the beauty of the caves even further. After a bit, it was back onto the boats for the return journey. There was another stop off at a second cave, but I thought I had done enough so stayed on the boat with a couple of other "chickens". The trip back up the river was just so pleasant. As I have said before, Vietnam is just such a beautiful scenic country. I was quite touched because when I was saying Tam Biet to
Travelling Travelling Travelling

Bridge used during Vietnam War
the group, one of the young girls asked could she have her photo taken with me and then handed me a lovely fan. Once off the boat, had to then find Uyen but there he was waiting at his motor bike and guarding my backpack. No, no valuables in it people!!!! We came back on the Ho Chi Minh Trail and this was much quieter than on the highway but we joined it at Dong Ha and then it was a very hard drive for Uyen as he really has to concentrate on all the different objects that seem to appear out of nowhere. Those of you who have not been to Vietnam probably wonder what I talk about but you have to have the experience of the traffic. It is the best way to travel though as I can stop whenever I want to. Poor Uyen, when I said to him - how much longer? He would say to me - I don't know how many stops you want!!!!!! But he is really very considerate and stops whenever I ask him to and he is a great driver so I have felt very safe with his driving. Along the
At Caves trip startAt Caves trip startAt Caves trip start

Hanoi family met on trip
way, I am sure I got some really strange looks - this is apart from the usual looks I get being a "foreigner". I didn't have my usual traditional garb over here - the face mask. These are a real piece of glamour!!!! But the practicality of them is that they keep the smells, smoke and sun away. So, Brenda improvised and you will see what I mean by the picture below. You sure change your character over here. Anyway, my blouse did the job of mainly keeping the sun off my face. We arrived back in Hue once again safely but then Uyen had another two and a half hours of travelling to do and he is not particularly fond of night travelling through some of the country he had to go because there can be nasty robberies but he texted me to say he was home safely. I stopped off to buy my ticket to DaNang and then got my next favourite mode of travel back to the house - Cyclo. So, it was a real underground/undercover weekend by visiting two really amazing features of Vietnam in what is called the DMZ - Demilitarized Zone.
Then it was
 Caves trip  Caves trip Caves trip

Mode of travel to and from and in caves
the mammoth task of packing. I seem to have accummulated a lot more than I came with but all good teaching gear.
Monday 30th July
After breakfast, went to An Hoa for the last time. Was quite sad to be saying goodbye (tam biet) and not hanger ply (of course not spelt correctly_ "see you later". I was "attacked" when I had stickers and photos to distribute to the kids and left my keyboard with them. I loved this place and the kids in it but just how much English they have caught on will be interesting to know. And the disabled children all gave me hugs and waves so that memory will last for a long time. When I said my last goodbye to the baby section, memories flashed back of my little charge of last year, Alina Bo as Sony (the baby baby here) had had her hair cut and she reminded me so much of Alina Bo as she too had those big brown eyes. Tear tear here. So that was my last piece of volunteering in Hue. Came home and got ready for Mr Mien to drive me up to get the bus to DaNang. So,
Still on caves tripStill on caves tripStill on caves trip

Mode of travel to, from and in caves
it was goodbye to the remaining volunteers in the house and of course Chi Bi who was just fabulous to me with her little treats. And Hue was such a nice place to be in for the past month and I thoroughly enjoyed my time with the volunteering and hope I have made some small contribution to the welfare of these kids.
Crossed the beautiful Perfume River for thelast time and caught the bus to DaNang and once more had that gorgeous drive over the Hai Van Pass and it felt like "coming back home" once more as we drove along the ocean. I was the only passenger to alight at the Cham Museum spot. Had fun getting my four piece of luggage off the absolutely jammed packed bus compartment. I am sure the passengers were getting impatient as we could not find my backpack. Got three pieces, plus I could have taken another bag that he put out for me but all I wanted was my backpack. This is where you see the way it would have been done at home and here - my luggage would have been put on last seeing that I was going to be
At Caves trip At Caves trip At Caves trip

Entry to cave
first off. Never mind, after about 10 minutes and going to the complete other side of the bus, I gave a sigh of relief as there it was. Feeling very confident of what I had to do now when all the motor bike riders, cyclos and taxis wanted your "business", I just waited until I was ready to chose a particular taxi as no way would a cyclo or motorbike accommodate my needs with all this luggage. Was down to the Bach Dang Hotel again - knew exactly where to go and then contacted Sandie to let her know I was back. Uyen came and picked me up and had to have a meal with the family once again and then bed.
Tuesday 31st July - Was woken up at about 5.30 to have my laundry returned! She said - oh you still sleep? Had a late start as I decided I didn't need to get up then and today was a catch up day with some paperwork with Sandie. We had a few coffees, nice pizza for lunch and then was off to Uyen's for a last farewell to his family and then it was off to the volunteer's
In caveIn caveIn cave

These caves are just out of this world
house to leave some of my heavy luggage. I got a fright as when I arrived the gate was all locked up but within a couple of minutes there was "Hey, hey from a familiar voice. It was Mr Kai, the security guard. He came running up and gave me a big hug and then signalled for me to go up the street where the volunteers were sitting. Had a brief chat as the taxi was waiting to take me back to the hotel. Met a couple of new volunteers that I will be working with and some of the ones from last month's program who were returning/leaving. After dinner with Sandie, once more on the bike to go to one of Uyen's friend's as it was his birthday and wanted to have a beer with me and to meet his family too. This is how it is - you are "adopted" but it is their way of appreciation for "helping with the children's education" from having these trips with them. So this is my last entry for this month. Will be interesting to see what the next month brings.




Image captions:

1. relaxing at house
Still on caves tripStill on caves tripStill on caves trip

Exit from caves

Spent many hours on this swing just thinking about life over here in Vietnam

2. Border
This was the demarcation line of North and South Vietnam during the War - old bridge still remains and the new one is the one you travel over now

3. statue
This is a wonderful statue at the once border between North and South Vietnam

4. Coming out of tunnels
Me coming out of the Vinh Moc tunnels. Picture doesn't show the perspiration pouring off me and the way my legs felt - jellified!!!! Just wonder how so many people survived for so many months down th...

5. Beach at Vinh Moc
This was the view you got after you came out of the Vinh Moc tunnels.

6. another scene
More lovely country along the way

7. Dong Hai
View from my hotel room in Dong Hai

8. statue
Statue just before caves

9. travelling to caves

10. At Phong Nha
Before we got on the dragon boats to go on river to caves

11. At Phong Nha
Family that were from Hanoi and part of their group that I joined. Very helpful
On way homeOn way homeOn way home

Who is this person? At least kept me from being sunburnt while on the back of the motor bike. Did I get some stares?
in cave

12. Mode of travel to caves
This was just one of the hundreds of these boats taking many visitors to the caves

13. workers
A very long stretch of stonework being done quite laboriously by workers with very primitive tools. Will look great when finished.

14. Entry to caves
This is the entry to an amazing wonder of the world. Largest cave in Vietnam and out of this world.

15. In caves
Me standing along side one of the joined stalectites and stalegmites - how many years this would have taken who knows? Absolutely huge.

16. drier countryside
This was a bit unusual seeing dry countryside instead of the vivid green rice fields

17. Countryside
One of the bridges used during the war - beautiful countryside

18. motorbike gangster
Well, the picture tells the story !!!!

19. bike load
Well, what beauty competition can I enter in? Aren't I just the glamorous one - My goodness. Is it any wonder I got many stares along the highway???

20. More countryside
More lovely countryside we passed along the way


Additional photos below
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On way homeOn way home
On way home

Couldn't let Uyen do all the driving now could I?????? Made him walk home ha ha


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