Motorbiking at Sunset along the Mekong

---

Arriving in Vietnam in the late afternoon was a blessing. We had to race to fit something into our day after devoting most of it to border crossing from Cambodia. Our guide skillfully shuffled us along on a riverboat tour and organized a motorbike ride while we were lazily drifting down the river. When time is of the essence, it's kind of nice to be told what to do and where to go. We had less than 24 hours in the Mekong Delta to make time for Saigon up ahead.

As soon as I got back to the hotel, a young man appeared and was putting my helmet on. The drivers swarmed around us, each of them getting dibs on a Westerner and motioning us onto the bikes. They had more of a sense of urgency than we did- the sun would be setting in a few minutes. We were off.

We zipped between cars like a pack of Hell's Angels and began climbing a coiled mountain road. The guys got into it, and raced each other so intently I wondered if they'd put money on it before strapping us in. Since there are no stoplights anywhere, you beep when someone is going too slow, cutting out in front of you, or to indicate you are going to pass. When you can't see around the corner, you beep, too. Come to think of it, you just beep for any reason at all, even just to make your presence known. There are surprisingly few accidents- people seem to just be totally aware of their surroundings, and the bikes are so tiny they can squeeze in whereever they like.

At the top of the moutain, all the helmets came off and the cameras started flashing. We were in Vietnam. The sun sparkled over the delta river valley - my eyes could not find the end of water or greenery. Some teenaged boys were nearby kicking a soccer ball around, intercepted by us. I sat in a cafe hammock for a couple blissful moments listening to the slurping of noodles and clattering of dishes. I realize I know more about sunsets abroad than I do at home.

It probably wouldn't compare to a mountaintop sunset in Vietnam, but nonetheless, I'll have to take more notice when I get back to New York.

---