Khiva - Khorezm

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Flew into Urgench on a Russian plane crossing both the Syr Darya and the Amu Darya which was quite interesting. The irrigated land is a channel of green in a sandy desert which stretches as far as the eye can see. I met Rafael and Claire two French travellers and we shared a taxi to Khiva from Urgench. The town itself is pretty amazing but with so much restoration and the quite numerous tourists it feels a bit clinical and a bit like disneyland. But that said there are quite a few gems in if one lets their immagination fly its possible to bring up thoughts of caravans arriving with busselling bazaars and madrassahs.

We left the old town for Lunch and ended up finding an old Minaret to the north west. The local guy is restoring it and making a small resturant and bar for tourists. After climbing the minaret over the piles of bird poo and the initial little scramble the view was fantastic. As were leaving we were offered our first real example of Central Asian hospitality with an invitiation for lunch. After several vodka shots, some delicious soup, bread and melons we were offered beer. After several hours and a happy return to Khiva we started exploring the various sights. The highlight is easily the Pahlavon Mahmud Mausoleum with spectacular tilework and dome. We watched the sunset from the city walls after climbing the Juma Minaret and then ventured for dinner again outside the oldtown. At dinner we met some New Yorkers who had come up from the south.

In the morning a Marshrutka into Urgench and then a shared taxi ride to Bukara. The drive took about 6 hours and really made me think about the shear isolation of ancient Khorezm. In retrospect I would spent the cash and visted the Illiq Qala fortresses out in the desert. I guess I have lots of things I'm miss on the journey so its not such a disaster.

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