Thailand: The Andaman Coast

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With only two remaining weeks in Thailand, and my school semester complete, I had to decide on my last destination in Southeast Asia. I figured I couldn’t go wrong with the Western Andaman Coast of Thailand, known for its worldly renowned beautiful beaches, rock climbing, and scuba diving.
Now that I’m back, I’ve finally accepted that I’m no longer there, but also realized that it’s hard to find a better place in the world than parts of the Andaman Coast.
During my two weeks in the south, I was fortunate enough to be visited after the long awaited arrival of my girlfriend Elizabeth. After a hectic late night trip to the airport in Bangkok in which I got stuck in stand still traffic for too too long because of the Royal Family’s Procession to fly out of the airport, I finally made it, just in time to greet her after she came out of customs. It was great to see her, and even better to be able to travel with her.
The following morning, after a bowl of the famous Tom Yum Guy Boiled Noodles, we were off to the city to visit one of the biggest weekend markets in the world: Chatuchak. This place is complete chaos; frenzied shoppers from around the world, some excited, some confused, but everyone wild nonetheless. I figured for my friend, no better way to get acclimated to Bangkok life, than a chaotic market. This experience was followed by a 2 ½ hour bus ride west to the city of Kanchanaburi. We learned about a good bit of history and culture of Southeast Asia here. The city is bordered by the Mae Klong River, which is famous for the Bridge over the River Kwai, part of the Burmese Railway (to connect Bangkok to Rangoon) built in 1942 by Prisoners of War under Japanese control. The city was alright. It was quaint, along with having a good Thai cultural feel. History can only be so exciting though, when white sand beaches, scuba, and sheer rock climbing cliffs wait in the south.
The following day we went to the Don Muang domestic airport which is conveniently a five minute cab ride from my university, to fly south to Phuket. We didn’t have any intentions of staying in Phuket, as it is littered with resorts and attracts a different strain of tourists than we were seeking. Due to some obstacles, we had to determine on arrival where we would go next. We took a bus to Phuket town in the south of the island with intent to take a ferry to Pi Pi Island the following morning. The town was alright. We found a budget guest house nestled in the middle of the town, found a great Southern Thai meal. After we detached the squid tentacles from our throats, we walked around the town, mainly through a Thai food market. I’m not a huge fan of eating seafood, but I really enjoy looking at it lying on ice before it’s cooked. Quite some obscure looking creatures they catch off that coast.
The next morning we caught the first ferry to Ko Pi Pi. After a 30 KM ride on the ferry we arrived on the island and realized the main port city was gearing up for a huge New Years Celebration. We opted to stay on a quieter beach on the opposite side of the island. Against recommendation, we decided to walk there. It was quite a strenuous hike up a little mountain, with the descent being a legitimate jungle trek to the beach. After being hampered by mosquitoes and avoiding slippery slopes with our flip-flops, we made it to the beach which was only about 200 meters long. We got settled in the perfect bungalow, custom made for relaxing. After a long swim in the emerald waters of the Andaman Sea, beach frisbee, a delicious meal of Massamon Curry, a short hammock session, we were already gearing up for New Years. We opted to stay on the small beach we were on, which proved to be a great idea. Our night was very relaxed, but enjoyable. There were only about 40 people total on the beach, and the main bar had music and a fire show. It certainly was an enjoyable New Years.
The following morning we hired a long-tail boat back to the main beach, which was still in recovery mode from the preceding night.
We settled in another bungalow, swam and relaxed on the beach some more, then went on a sunset cruise to the neighboring Pi Pi Leh Island. It was a fun ride, trying to balance during a wavy day. We saw some sea gypsies, and did some snorkeling in a nearby coral. We then kayaked to the famous Maya Beach which was featured in Leo’s hit movie, “The Beach.” (Hard to believe, but I’ve already made two references to Leonardo Di Caprio in eight blogs. I think this needs to stop!) The beach was astounding though. There’s no possible way I could accurately describe the water color. Even the pictures don’t do justice. The white sand beach was surrounded in a cove of granite peaks. We salvaged ever minute on “The Beach,” exploring the white sand paths through the jungle, until our boat was about to leave without us. The sunset was alright that night. We actually only caught the sun for about two minutes due to a pretty intense cloud cover. We ate coconut curry on the boat that night.
Following our little boat excursion we dilly-dallied through the little shops and markets in the town for a bit. I really enjoyed the island. It was only about 4 km long, but because of a mountain chain running through the middle of it, the only way to get from one beach to another was by boat, or a trek over the jungle peak, but most people opted for the boat. No cars or mopeds are allowed on the island. Only walking and riding bicycles. We enjoyed our last night on the island at a beachside bar. These bars are great. Tables and chairs stuck in the sand, with only the sound of ocean waves and chill music in the background. After a long night we walked back to the bungalow, we crashed after an exhausting day. It’s strange how it works out, but it always seems that these days of relaxing on the beach are the most tiring.
The following day we took another ferry to the coast of the peninsula. We had intended to stop at Railey in the Krabi Provence. We decided to take a long tail to the neighboring Ton Sai Beach. These two beaches are well known as one of the most famous rock-climbing destinations in the world. Ton Sai was an incredible little town. Again, I know I say this when I come back from every side trip, but I really think this is my favorite place in Southeast Asia. The beach wasn’t the most beautiful, but it was only about 100 meters long, surrounded by monstrous cliffs on each side, and another in the back. Again, no cars were seen, and very few mopeds. The little town was compiled of bungalows with the occasional diving and climbing outfitter snugly fit in the jungle. The town was inhabited by enthusiastic Thai’s and young climbers. No resorts!! Every meal was delicious, every person we met was nice, and our bungalow was at the back of a long path into the jungle. Swimming was fun, but I think the highlight was the rock-climbing. I’m glad I had gotten a bit of experience in Laos, because this was pretty intense. The sheer cliffs flush with the ocean were quite a rush to climb. I’m really happy I was able to get this experience. Similar to Vang Vieng in Laos, we kind of got stuck here. It was just too great, we couldn’t leave. We ended up staying two nights longer than we had originally intended. But, as with everything, it had to end. Unfortunately we had to leave. It was on to bigger and better things.
We woke up early after our third night in Ton Sai, took and long-tail to Au Non, and caught a mini-bus north three hours to Khao Lak/Bang Nieng. When I was in Malaysia, I met a friend who teaches English to Tsunami Victims in this town. He had recommended that I stay there to dive in one of the best corals in the world.
Elizabeth and I arrived in mid-afternoon and right away booked an overnight diving excursion for the following two days. We then met up with my friend, walked through a Thai Market, (Thai, not touristy, which basically means the entire market smells like fish) found accommodation, and then swam in the ocean once again. After spring rolls and a dinner, we met up with my friend, but it was an early night in preparation for a long day the following.
We were picked up at our guest house the next morning, driven to the main pier, surrounded by diving outfitters. A motor boat picked us up and we rode 42 km from the coast into the ocean. To say the least, it was wavy. About an hour later we arrived at the Similan Islands, which are rated by lonely planet as one of the top ten dive sites in the world. The diving was very impressive. The first day, we went on three different dives. Each dive was unique for its own reason. We saw the most beautiful corals and fish imaginable. Unfortunately, or I suppose fortunately, which ever way you look at it, we didn’t see any sharks. It was a great day on the ship, and in the water. It was certainly exhausting, but well worth the energy. That night we were dropped off on one of the islands and camped on the beach. We hiked through the island jungle to the opposite side of the island for a beautiful sunset. The humungous rocks bordering the island with the relentless ocean waves crashing in made the sunset quite a sight to see. After dinner on the island it was time for bed once again. It stormed pretty heavily that night, but we were both so exhausted we slept right through it.
The following day began gloomy. We were worried the visibility would be poor due to the rains the night before, but it was anything but that. The skies cleared right before our first dive. Again, we had three dives this day. The last two, being the best, but again, each was unique with the fish and types of coral we saw. On our second dive, we reached maximum depth of 26 meters. Out third and last dive was the best. We swam to the “East of Eden” dive site. I would try to explain, but words just wouldn’t do a justice. Breathtaking!
We got to know our instructor very well. After one of our dives I asked him about the Tsunami. There were the most deaths and most destruction from the Tsunami in Khao Lak, the city we were staying in. The beaches were formerly inhabited by bungalow accommodation and restaurants, but unfortunately, since the disaster, resorts have taken over. Our instructor said he was actually diving when the Tsunami hit, but fortunately he was out at sea, so the massive wave had little effect on him. He said the currents were really strange, and the water level kept rising and falling at a really fast rate. They had no idea what happened until a few hours later when the Navy brought them to the coast. He said the destruction was absolutely horrendous. It seemed like it was difficult for him to talk about. He said he lost many friends in the disaster, but was fortunate not to be injured himself.
Our diving experience was great. We saw something new on every dive. We rode a speed boat back to Khao Lak and once again got situated in the same guest house.
The following morning we woke up early, and rented a motorbike. We rode about 100 km to the top rated national park in all of Thailand: Khao Sok National Park. The ride was great. The first half of the journey was through coastal Thai cities, and the second half on a huge climb through the mountains. The air was clear and the sun was shining. We made it by late morning and trekked through the jungle for a while, until we saw a few small waterfalls. There was little water in the river due to the dry season, but both the rainforest and the river were beautiful. It was good to be surrounded by bamboo one final time. We also swam in the river where it was slow moving. After a late lunch, we were on our way by moto back to Khao Lak. The descent was great in the afternoon sun.
We were back by late afternoon, just in time to return the moto and catch a bus back south to Phuket. That night we were on a plane once again, heading north to Bangkok. We arrived back at my university and met up with my last remaining friend from my program.
The next day was my last in Bangkok, and in Thailand altogether. One thing I really wanted to do before I left was eat at my three favorite restaurants. Kuytiaw for breakfast, Isan for Lunch, and Som Tum, Khao Pat Guy for dinner. In mid afternoon, we went to the famous Bangkok backpacker’s district, Khao San Road for some last minute souvenirs. After, we returned to my university for my final farewells then it was back to Suvarnabumi Airport to fly back to the States.
It was sad having to leave after I had become so attached to such a great place. I’ll really miss Thailand, and Southeast Asia altogether. I know it won’t be long until I’m back, but it’s just difficult to be finished with such a great experience. The Thai people are so great, my program couldn’t have been better, and I traveled more than I had ever imagined.
With all that having been said, it was nice to return home. The weather is cold, and things are expensive, but it was great to see family and friends. I now have a new niece, and there is snow, instead of leaves on the trees.
Now I’ve got a few days back home, then I’m off on my next adventure!

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Photos

Maya Beach, "The Beach"
We replayed this scene from the movie. Fortunatley enough, she was too scared to jump off of the Heaw Suwat Waterfall so she never found Leo who was swimming in the pool below!

Camera Thievery
This little guy went after our money, coffee shake, and in this picture, my camera.

Railey Rock Climbing
I don't know why I got into this one, and how I got out!

Khao Sok National Park
BAMBOO