Ahhh....Ton Sai.

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I never expected to find my idea of paradise in Thailand, but I did. It is a place called Ton Sai. I visited there four times altogether, three short weekend trips and once for five days before leaving the country and coming home.

When I'm there I live my life like I have always wanted to- off the land. My dream has come true....I can finally be Pocahontas! Unfortunately, it is located on the other side of the world from the people I love. Why the hell does it have to work out like that?

Ton Sai Bay was a desired destination of mine ever since we took a day trip to Phranang Bay (a beach located on the same piece of land, but just on the other side). We didn't really have much time to explore Phranang, not to mention we had no knowledge of it prior to going. For all I knew at the time, where we were was all it had in store- was I ever wrong. I later discovered there are four different beaches (bays): Railay East, Railay West, Phranang Bay, and (saving the best for last) Ton Sai. After doing some research in the Lonely Planet (a book designed for travelers in Thailand) I decided Ton Sai is a place that I couldn't miss seeing.

Let me start by describing Ton Sai from the beginning- my first time there. It was right after the end of the first five weeks of my expedition. My intense TEFL training was complete, I had recieved my certification, and was ready to kick back and chill......grooving slowly. It was also my birthday weekend which meant I was ready to celebrate (but responsibly, of course!).

Climbing out of the long-boat and stepping onto this rocky beach was a breath of fresh air. There weren't more than ten people within sight (half of them were rock climbers up on the mountain) and it looked like a deserted beach (minus a few small bars and restaurants). We didn't know where to go at first. We couldn't locate a hotel or even a person to assist us. But I didn't care. I just threw off my bags, set them down, and headed for the water. I could have cared less about accomadation at that moment. I would sleep on the beach- not a big deal. The ocean was my shower, and the ants my food. 😊

Some of the other volunteers that accompanied on the trip eventually got bungalows that were located far back in the "bush". They only cost 150 Baht which is about five US dollars. Katie and I decided to share one, but we couldn't be bothered to waste time getting there and settling in. We left our belongings with the volunteers who were staying on the beach and took off exploring the land. It was about 4:00pm at the time and we said we would be back around 5:30.

We started to walk down the beach (which is so small!) and began noticing a couple of people making their way through the jungle back onto TonSai. We asked them where they were coming from and they explained to us that you could get through to another bay (Railay West) if you continue to follow the path. We were intrigued.

There were also a few people walking around the side of the mountain, amongst the thousands of rocks that expose themselves once the tide goes out. Katie wasn't a fan of heights so we opted for the rocks (not to mention both of us had flip-flops on- something your feet live in while in Thailand).

We made it around to the other side safely after walking across the sharpest rocks I have ever seen. If you fell or got tripped up, you could easily break skin and have a decent size wound. And to think that the ocean, and all its wonders, created these things to exist as they were.

We were then walking on Railay West Bay. It was absolutely beautiful. The sand was gorgeous, there were no sharp rocks in the water, and you could see the most magnificent mountain ahead of you. The only downside was how populated the area was compared to Ton Sai. The resorts were lined up down the beach, and the restaurants and tourist shops filled the side alleys. It was nice and all, if you like that sort of thing. I on the other hand, prefer the serene, quiet atmosphere.

We quickly made our way around the area. It didn't seem that we were walking for that long but apparently we did. We eventually ended up on yet another bay! This time we recognized where we were. It was the same place we had originally came the first time- Phranang Bay. Something we didn't realize before was how it is adjacent to Railay East Bay (which is an undesirable area to swim because of the abundance of mangrove trees in the water). We wandered around Railay East for a while (seeing how it was new territory) and discovered a few cool bars to come back to on another night.

After spending about, what felt like an hour to us, exploring we decided to head back. But where the hell were we exactly? We tried a few different sidewalks but we were confused. It all looked the same once you were right in the middle of it. Although the sun was beginning to set and we both had to use the bathroom (at least I know I did for sure), we were having a good time.

We passed a bar called the "Skunk Bar" and remembered that Penny (one of the GVI staff members) had told us there was a path that lead to Ton Sai from behind this bar. We stopped by and asked one of the employees if he knew anything about it. He (a man named "Pirate") pointed us in the direction and invited us to come back, or rather just stay at that point. We explained we had friends waiting, thanked him, and set out to find the "path" in the bush.

We followed what I thought was the path to an area where the trail slowly began to fade until there was nothing left but thick trees and abundant life all around us. At that point I said, "Okay. We can't do this right now. We will be stuck in the jungle. Maybe if we had flashlights." She agreed (obviously) and we started to walk even faster in the direction we just came from. "These people are probably going to think we're crazy", I said as we walked by the Skunk Bar yet again.

This time we did find the right sidewalk that led us back to Railay West. As soon as we got close enough to the beach we were both in awe of what immediately took over our eyesight- the most stunning sunset. I have never seen a sunset as beautiful as this one before, and I have seen plenty of spectacular ones in my days.

Katie reached for her camera and I thought of Rob. "Isn't it kind of sad that we are in the most romantic place right now without the ones we love?" She didn't say too much besides agree. I followed up with a huge laugh and, "Well, at least we have each other." I grabbed her arm as we continued to walk. It was such a cheesy moment but one that I will never forget.

A few things we both learned that night: how fast the sun sets, how quick the tide comes back in, and how flashlights really come in handy while attempting to walk up a dark mountain.

This knowledge was obtained after we attempted to cross the ocean that was knocking us over and leaving Katie screaming, "My bloody bag!" after a wave came crashing on top of us. At that point I completely lost it. I was hysterically laughing at the entire situation (not to mention Katie is one of the most naturally funny people I have ever met).

So there we were, completely soaked and "up a creek without a paddle". I started looking for someone, anyone that could help us get over to the other side. (Let us not forget that we didn't even check into our room yet and had no idea of where our belongings ended up.) Katie was ready to get a room on Railay West, but I told her we couldn't give up yet.

We came across a man sitting next to a sign that said "Security Office". I approached him with the little Thai that I could speak. After an exchange of greetings I said, "Mai me fai chai", which literally translates into "no have flash light". After many gestures and facial expressions he got the point. We needed to cross the mountain and could use his help. He told us to "stay here". About ten minutes later he came back with a friend and two flashlights. We were relieved.

We finally made it across after much laughter (mainly from me) and coaching Katie along (with her facing her two fears of the dark and of heights all in one shot). We thanked the two men by buying a round of beer and offering them the money in our pockets. I couldn't believe we made it (in the dark, wearing flip-flops, and being led by two strangers).

We met up with the other volunteers (thanks to Ton Sai being such a small bay) and finally got settled into our room. The unfortunate part for me was my clothes were with a friend I couldn't locate. I ended up spending the night in the same clothes that I arrived in, got soaked in, and sweated in after climbing up, over, and down the mountain. But it didn't matter, I was in paradise.

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After the second time there I was offered two jobs. One as an English teacher for the workers at the bungalows, and the other as a bartender/ hostess at the "Chill Out Bar". The beauty is, these are not your typical jobs. You have the opportunity to really live and learn about yourself and others from all over the world.

I unfortunately declined both and said I will be back someday. I know that I will be. I have no doubt in my mind. It was amazing because some of the other visitors to the bay said it was their second or third time there as well, and even though there might be years that have gone by since their last visit they are still in love with it, and are remembered by employees and natives.

To wrap up many long and wonderful stories that can't possibly all be shared within these constraints, I obtained several friends (both Thai and other foreigners) and shared many unforgetable experiences with them. I also gained a few students while I stayed on Ton Sai; a couple of my most memorable for their dedication and determination to learn English (mixed with their uniquely wonderful personalities).

During my last visit to Ton Sai I actually got invited to live with some of my students in their tree houses. It was a life right out of National Geographic (sad that media is all I have to compare to this rare beauty and lifestyle, but true).

Before climbing up the wooden stairs that led to the treehouse you would have to wash your feet with the water that was in a bucket nearby and leave your shoes on the ground outside (Thais do not wear shoes inside their homes). The stairs led to a small platform where I would sit in the mornings after first waking up. I spent many hours there just watching the monkeys play and eat twenty feet above my head. They were crazy monkeys (and lemurs as well!) that would steal almost anything you left outside. They are known to enter treehouses and homes and swipe food, personal belongings, money, etc. that are never to be seen again.

The treehouses were not insulated by any means and composed of recycled wood that was scrapped from previous homes or furniture. There were cracks in between the walls and holes in between the sides of the treehouse and the thin, straw roof. Needless to say, I was eaten alive every night I slept there (by the mosquitoes and also the bed bugs). I would wake up with at least fifteen freshies every morning. There were even times when I would wake up to the sound of mosquitoes buzzing in my ears- alarming.

But I just felt that it was all part of it; it didn't bother me that much. There are definately tricks of the trade that you pick up on such as what times the bugs are the worst, what brands of repellent work the best, and where to invest in some fabulous incense that keeps the pests away.

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During one of my last visits to Ton Sai I heard the most upsetting news. The bay was going to be building a huge resort that took up most of the land that was untouched (which was a lot). I didn't know what to do; there wasn't anything I could do besides help my friends move their belongings after being evicted from their homes in order to clear the land for the beginning phases of the building process. The Thai government actually came and kicked them out. And not only did they have little notice of the situation, they had to remove everything (including everything standing which meant knocking down their wash area made of beer bottles and cement that took them nearly six months to complete, and also their unique bathrooms that were hand made and took about four months to build). It was such a tragedy and I didn't even live there. I couldn't imagine what these people were facing. In spite of it all, after talking to a few of them in-depth about it, they would say, "What can we do? We have to keep going and do what we are able to do." The spirits of these people are so pure and unbreakable. It was extremely admiring.

So who knows what will eventually happen to Ton Sai. I left during a time when my friends (from the Chill Out Bar) were just starting out, all new (so to speak), all over again. It is impossible to keep in touch because they have no address or way to contact them. They offered me a place to stay whenever I needed one or wanted to come back. So I guess I will have to see for myself in due time.

I learned many things during my time on Ton Sai: how to speak conversational Thai with confidence, how to play some funky instruments, how to cook Thai dishes, how to fire dance, how to perform crazy mind games, what chicken intestines taste like, how delicious red snapper is, but most importantly, how to live in the most simplest of ways.

I can't wait to return..........

until then,

back to life in the United States.

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I am currently home in PA. Despite this, I still have a couple more blogs to submit so don't erase the website from memory just yet.

I am moving to Philadelphia on November 1st and plan to obtain a full time writing job and a part time ESL teaching position where I can implement all the knowledge I just obtained while it is still "fresh" in my mind.

We'll see how it goes......

Take care everyone!

Choke dee! (Good Luck!)

~Vanessa

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Photos

"Welcome, Welcome!!!"
"Free fire show tonight!" Something that our friends would scream down to the beach as the tourists arrived.

Tide In Shot
The left side view when looking out onto the ocean from the shore.

way to Railay West
If you followed the sand to the place where it meets the jungle you would find the entrance to the path through it.

katie, me, jon
The tide was obviously out in this pic. It took us about ten minutes to walk out of the water because the rocks beneath our feet were extremely painful.

view in the evening
This was the most peaceful time to be on the beach. Everyone seemed to be somewhere else.

my home on Ton Sai
The beer bottle "wash" area with the tree houses in the background.

Katie- Phranang Bay
During our little adventure.

"Dam" (or in English "Black")
The dog, or should I say the "main man" of Ton Sai. He was loved (and fed) by all who came.

Mirella and I
Mirella's grandparents are from the exact same village in Abruzzi, Italy that mine are from. It was crazy having a fellow "family member" on the volunteer crew.

hotel room in Khao Lak
This is just a pic I had to share. It took place during the weekend of our visa run to Burma. The strays had a good nights rest that night we were in town.

hailey sleeping outside with her new friend
Another priceless photo. This volunteer was missing her dog back home that much she decided to sleep outside with this one.

Approaching Burma
This view is from the long boat we took over from Thailand to Burma. It was about a 40 minute ride with spectacular views. Burma looks like a beautiful country from a distance.

In the streets of Burma
We would wander around these crowded places feeling extremely out of place. A boy who escorted us, "Ali", is standing in the left corner. He was the only friendly person we encountered.