Howling At the Moon

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It was with a bit of trepidation that we approached Ko Pha Ngan, an island infamous for its full-moon parties. It's all well and good to be considered a "backpacker haven," but as any morally superior traveler meandering around Thailand discovers, if Khao San Road is the first and foremost backpacker destination... You'd do well to avoid any places that try to follow in its footsteps. However, despite my best intentions, I found it very hard to do anything but fall in love with the island. True, it is incredibly touristy and over-run with all sorts of backpackers, including those that most sane people avoid at all costs, but it's also indescribably lovely.

Although the touts and pushy businesspeople are here as well, the vibe is altogether much more laid back than other places we've encountered (Ko Tao, for instance). The locals are genuinely nice and friendly, and the "Thai smile" you read about so much in guidebooks truly is ubiquitous. We stayed at a lovely bungalow (Paradise Garden) five minutes away from the beach, and did little but mellow out. Having met some girls on the truck ride to our beach and discovering they were our Welsh counterparts, we spent a lot of our time with them. It was mostly spent beaching, hammocking, lazing, and eating (how very healthy).

Our stay coincided with a full moon party (haha, as if our being there was a coincidence) and ohmylord, what an experience. Firstly, getting 20 drunk people ('cept yours truly of course) into a tiny, precarious boat is difficult enough, but getting them to sit still for more than 15 minutes?! Oi. I was very, very sure we were going to capsize, and clung resolutely to my tiny orange lifevest... Thankfully, we did not. Approaching the beach (Haad Rin) we could hear the music before we saw anything noteworthy, and it bode very well for the party, absolutely killer drum and bass. Once we hopped off the boat (without falling into the water - I was qutie impressed) we were awe-struck by the sheer size of the event... A long, gorgeous beach lined with stalls selling booze (beer & buckets!), at least six clubs you could wander through, food stalls, bon fires and fire dancers, and tons and tons of people. Very rad. As for the events of the party itself... Let's just say drinking games were played, buckets were consumed, the dancing was crazy, and the boat ride back was crazier. There is something incredible about dancing on the beach with thousands of other people. I'm definately coming back to Ko Pha Ngan (NYE perhaps?).

While on the island Alicia got some news from home that necessitated her return to Poland, so, sadly, she departed yesterday (and will hopefully come back for India). All my love to her and her family.

Off to Cambodia in a couple of days (Angkor Wat!!!), so satwadeeka Thailand, I'll be seeing you shortly!

- R.

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Photos

No Wonder We Stayed Longer
*sigh*

How's That for Atmosphere
I doubt many restaurants in Vancouver can compare.

What a Life
(I love shakes)

The Beach
Thong Nai Paan Yai

Comments

[Marko]

Looks like fun...
I totally envy you right now.

[andrew]

Elitist
Hi, I have spent lots of time in thailand and always struggle with the anger people seem to harbour at the way others are having their holidays. Why are you so morally elite compared to everyone? What are you doing there that is different?

[Robin]

to clarify...
for those who don't know me personally and stumble upon this blog, i am a very sarcastic person, and entries like these should be read with that in mind. friends and family at home are killing themselves laughing at the very thought that i'd be in the same country as some place like ko phangnan and some party like the full moon party and not be right in the middle... most likely dancing on a table. ;) didn't mean to offend anyone!