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Published: February 9th 2020
So after what was a bit of a disastrous start, I got up early and went for breakfast and then walked to Charlie Beach, which was a lovely road through the trees and took about 25 minutes. The local people were so friendly but I was shocked by the state of their houses, rubbish everywhere around them, no attempt to even bag stuff up. Houses on stilts over a muddy area with concrete walkways. It was really poor. One local woman had bought an ice cream and just dropped the wrapper on the floor without a thought. To tourists the place looks uncared for and scruffy and they need to clean up their act and improve the accommodation if they want to to profit more. In spite of this, I grew to really like it.
At Charlie Beach, you first have to walk through the really dreadful sight of the half knocked down Charlie resort, which looks like a war zone. It was built partly on National Park land and at some point the were told it had to go, after operating for some time. I can’t find out how long. Not it looks bombed out and is covered in
graffiti, really spooky. But to the far left of the beach are some lovely funky bars and you can use their sun beds and parasols for free if you buy a drink or two, which are very reasonably priced. The staff are great too and it was very peaceful, with not many people about and clear, clean sea to swim in. Gorgeous, in fact, and I felt a whole lot better after catching up on some sleep. The following two nights were very quiet so I felt a bit ridiculous for panicking and exiting early, but it was too late by then! There are plenty of motorbike taxis at the beach for 50B per person to anywhere but I walked back and then met my buddies for a hotpot meal at the Mango Restaurant in the evening. For a longtime only Thai people were eating there. You choose from chicken, prawns, tofu and vegetables and cook it yourself on a dome over hot coals with a moat of stock around it. Absolutely delicious and great fun, only 100B each.
After the treat of a peaceful night Mr Yai was there with his transport so he took me to the beach
for free. He is the kindest, nicest man, gives loads of information, loves his island but says that it’s impossible to borrow any money for investment from banks: they do not want to invest in Ko Muk! At the beach we met some Danish guys who were staying in bungalows right up on the cliff overlooking the beach. I can’t remember the name but it begins with K! They showed us their room, a bamboo hut with bathroom and balcony with the best view on the island. It must be hard lugging your bags up all the steps but worth it. They paid about 1300B a night and the room had a double and single bed with nets. It was absolutely beautiful if you don’t mind a hut. I’m used to mine now, although the bathroom visit in the night through the garden gets very old very quickly. The fan was fine at night, in fact it got too cool so I turned it off. So I’ve learnt that I can comfortably stay in a hut, it takes a while to get organised and then it’s OK, even with no bathroom, but only if it’s quiet enough. Research is key
to this effect!
Dinner on the beach in Perfect Bar (fancied pizza) and then a lovely walk along under the full moon, fascinated by all the hermit crabs and others scurrying about. It was magical!
So my buddies decided also to come to Ko Lipe and we all bought tickets from Mr Yai for 1000B, saving 150B on the price elsewhere. I chose the quickest option, just over 2 hours, rather than the more expensive ferry which takes 3 1/2! Worth putting up with the bumping and spray to get there. I messaged the Noi Guesthouse to pick me up, no reply, fingers crossed. Had the best breakfast today in Miss Island Bakery, sitting in the garden. It is very popular and so very busy. My American buddies were not impressed with the hash browns, which were not what they were expecting. I explained in the UK that is what they look like, we know nothing else!
My Yai showed me where he’d had to cut away the bark of the tree as there was a bulge and behind it a fat maggot, 4 inches long, which will eventually hatch and destroy the cashew trees. He is
Deserted and knocked down Charlie’s Resort
also very proud that he has 2 pineapples growing which meter he will share with guests. He will take me to the ferry in 10 minutes so I can make sure the ticket he wrote out is OK!
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