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Published: November 17th 2014
Well, it has been far too long since my last blog on my travels so you have a lot of catching up to do!
As I write, I have been in Chiang Mai for a week. I have hardly scratched the surface of what this city has to offer but I simply love it. There are so many temples here ... over 300 according to my host! And goodness knows how many restaurants there are ... thousands I guess if you include the little places tucked away down the side streets, not to mention the hundreds of food stalls that appear at the markets which seem are a daily occurrence.
Now ... something I didn't know about Thailand is that they drive on the left hand side, something I thought that was particular to just the UK and a few of our conquered nations. This has made it very easy to manage the roads and walkways .... well, that would be the case if drivers didn't ignore pedestrians! Pedestrian crossings are few and far between and sometimes they are not working (the only way to work this out is to press the button and look like a complete idiot for 10 minutes whilst the traffic keeps going past). And when they are working, you suddenly get a 10 second opportunity to dash across the lanes of traffic which invariably does not stop anyway!!! Where I am based in Chiang Mai, near the North Gate of the old city walls, it is almost impossible to get across the road without putting your life in jeopardy. Sometimes it feels sensible to catch a tuk-tuk just to get to the opposite side of the road!
Jaywalking is apparently an offence but it is often the only way to get across the road. All this is observed by the military who, since marshal law was imposed earlier this year, have set up manned posts near to major intersections. At first I was intimidated by this but they are totally inoffensive and I believe are just on-hand in case of a riot, a notion supported by the presence of riot shields. I actually feel sorry for these guys as all they are doing is sitting there on their phones all day.
I know I have mentioned this in a previous blog but smoking in public appears to be frowned upon. One feels very self conscious smoking on the street and you have to make sure you dispose of the cigarette end in a bin or such like. Now, yet another paradox .... there are hardly any bins to be seen and yet the place is so clean! Where does the rubbish go?
The rats, of which I have observed many, tend to congregate around makeshift bins and there have been several nights where my sole companions on my journey home have been the rats looking for their supper. But even the rats look clean!
Another observation (I'll get on with my diary in a minute) is that a lot of the young females have very white complexion ... not pale but white like porcelain. This is offset by very black long hair and the Japanese school girl look (white blouse, short dark skirt and hair in bunches) .... maybe they are Japanese school girls!!! Often you will see groups of these young ladies but one rarely sees 'gangs' of young males. I am guessing there is National Service, i.e. conscription, for young men here?
Okay, social commentary over ... here is what you're waiting for:
After a good nights' sleep and a light breakfast (cigarette and orange juice) I get ready for the days' events. It is, of course, very hot and humid, something which I am getting to used to and I am even avoiding the use of the air conditioning in the house. I decide to go for a wander into the old city ... as I have not yet familiarized myself with the multitude of roads, all which look the same (so typical of Asia!) I do get lost several times but just backtrack, no doubt jaywalking, and start again. At least this way, it takes me off the beaten track.
Having said that, even the main roads within the old city are not very busy; both with pedestrians and vehicles.
Eventually find my way to the area of the Night market and discover a 'new' area, the Anusarn Market. Obviously it is not night time (I didn't get lost that much) so there are no market stalls. However, there are plenty of bars and restaurants and feeling in need of some refreshment I go into O'Malleys .... yep a pseudo Irish Bar. The barmaid is very chatty, probably as I am about their only customer and I get a pint of draft Magners which costs more than it does back in the UK. But I don't care, it is what I need and I enjoy this immensely.
Suitably refreshed I wander towards the river Ping (although by the colour of it, it should be called pong!) and walk across a bridge which disturbingly looks just the one over the River Kwai. Find a nice little restaurant down by the river called At Khualek and I have the best green curry I have ever had. It is delicious and at 85 Baht, about £1.75, you can not go wrong. The restaurant is very authentic, away from the tourist traps these type of restaurants are very reasonable and serve traditional food rather than blended for Westerners' tastes. In fact I am the only Caucasian there and it is frowned upon when I have a Chang!
I then head on back past the girlie bars which are very quiet as it is still mid afternoon and no doubt the girls are shagged out from the previous nights' entertainments! Have a siesta which is definitely the order of the day, for me anyway, in this stifling heat.
In the evening I do some more exploring and getting lost. I find the establishment Zoe in Yellow, a notorious nightspot in Chiang Mai. It is still early for these bars and I make note of where it is and vow to return when it is busier. I head for the Night Market but end up horribly lost, although where I end up serves me well for another day when I find myself in the same location! The streets here are deserted but for the occasional scooter that pass by. At one point, my only company was two stray dogs who also looked lost. Oh them and the occasional rat!
Eventually I find my way to the Night Market Having earlier discovered the Anusarn Market, I return and the place is now buzzing. It is busy but it is far easier to browse the stalls than on the street. I have realised that I am running out of clean clothes so bag myself 2 linen shirts for about £3 each, 2 T shirts (which turn out to be too small!) for about £2 each and 2 pairs of Arabian Nights style baggy trousers for about £1.50 each. I love the haggling which always gives you a sense of achievement, even though you have probably still paid way over the odds for the item!
Go back past the girlie bars again ... this time they are really buzzing. So many look like great bars, but I feel intimidated/too shy to venture in. It could all go horribly wrong! It's a shame ... if only I could find a place with atmosphere but no hidden (or rather in your face) agendas. Feeling hungry once more, I look at some menus along the way home and decide on one that looks reasonable. It is only when I am greeted by the manageress that I realise I am back at the Writers Club where I went last night!
I have a delicious chicken & cashew nut stir fry with rice and for some reason a Jack Daniels and coke. Total price £4 including tip. Back at the house I stay up late catching up with friends and planning future adventures.
Next day is a slow start but thankfully it feels fresher today with low humidity and a bit of a breeze. Drop off a bag of laundry at the local dry cleaners which costs me £1 for which I receive no receipt or ticket, just the instruction t return tomorrow at 5. I feel that I may never see my £3 Primark T shirts or boxer shorts ever again.
Go to the Writers Club for a spot of lunch ... this is becoming a serious relationship! I have a chicken laab, which is a Northern Thailand/Laos speciality. Thankfully the chicken is cooked as this dish is sometimes raw. The minced chicken is nicely spiced, from what I can gather chillie, cumin and pepper together with roasted rice grains. It is nice but I don't think I'll have it again. I also have a banana shake which is very refreshing. Total price 135 Baht ... less that £3. Upon getting the bill I make payment, only for the waiter to point out that I had overpaid by about 300 Baht which was soon rectified. I am impressed with the honesty.
On the way back to the house, I come across another temple and spend some time wandering around. The place is so peaceful. These temples are like oasis's of tranquillity in the midst of a thriving and noisy city. There are no parks in the city that I am aware of, so these temples are pretty much the only place to relax and gather ones' thoughts.
Back at base, do some more travel plans ... hadn't realised how much time and effort it would take to plan my trip. I hope to be joined by a girl that I used to work with and we're planning on meeting up in Bangkok before moving down to Pattaya and Hua Hin where we will see out the month of December. I make contact with another friend whom I went to Brazil with several years ago, who now lives in Pattaya and he gives some good advice as to where to stay/not to stay.
In the evening, I wander down the street past Zoe in Yellow and head to the Un Irish Bar. As far as I can tell, it is run by an Irishman but that's where the Irishness stops, apart from draught Guinness. There are no Irish artefacts hanging on the walls but the clientele is definitely western and the place purports to be a sports bar, which is the reason I decided to venture in. Apart from a token TV on the wall showing baseball I can see no further evidence of the aforementioned sports. However, there appears to be an upstairs so maybe there is more up there.
Anyway, I get myself a JD & coke and sit outside amongst the tables of families and couples. Really .. where do the guys go apart from the girlie bars? I decide to break from my Thai diet and order a burger and chips. Should have gone to Burger King down the road - whilst I do eat it all, it is very bland and below average. Two more JD and cokes later and £8 lighter, I leave this boring establishment behind me ... shame as the potential was there for a big night!
Wander back past Zoe in Yellow and it is, yet again, too early for this joint. There are a few people there but the party has not yet got going.
On the way back, which I am now familiar with I pass through the food stalls which are lined up along the street close to where I am staying. The food looks reasonable and I have no doubt that the prices are as well. It s very popular, especially with the locals and I am surprised each morning how clean the area is ... where does the rubbish go?
One thing I have noticed, and at first I was bewildered as to why was there a big plate of sausages in a random place on a stool. It was upon coming across another similar platter, this time with dried fish, that I realised that this must be an offering to the gods? Not sure .... or maybe they are for the numerous cats and dogs?
That night I am not very well ... stomach cramps and well, you can guess!!!! It was either the burger or quite possibly the ice in the drinks, either way, I am definitely not going back to the 'sports bar' .. should be renamed the shits bar!!!!
The next day, after a long lay in, sees me make my daily pilgrimage to the Writers Club where I have crispy pork and kale in oyster sauce with rice. I love the Pad Thai here but I'm determined to vary my selection ... I'm sure that by the end of my stay in Chiang Mai that I will have 'done the menu' (in the restaurant, not the massage places!). As always, it is very tasty and this is washed down with a banana shake. I have the shake as I think it's better for me than a beer, however, they are so delicious I wonder if this is not the case! Looking down at my belly as I write, I think maybe the shakes are not as healthy as a pint!
Find my way to the offices of the Elephant National Park where I enquire about availability for an overnight stay at the park. This elephant park is different from the others around Chiang Mai, in that it is all about the elephants' welfare and they are not a tourist attraction where they are ridden, etc. So, the experience is all about learning about the elephants, walking with them and washing them, etc. As it's an overnight stay you also get to sleep in a lodge right by them. Sounds amazing and I'm so excited. The next availability is 30th November ... little over 2 weeks away and I snap this up with a deposit of £60. A further £60 will be payable on arrival. Transport to and from the park is provided and main meals.
Again I visit several more temples ... I must admit that whilst they are so attractive they become quite 'samey' after a while although they do, of course, have their own unique place in local history.
On the way back, I am surprised and delighted that they have my laundry! Clean clothes again hoorah!
Decide to venture out again in the evening and see if I can catch any Thai boxing. There are several places that show it, but these are mostly staged for tourists and not really professional. Unfortunately I do not find the venue I'm after and whilst being tempted to go to one of the other venues ... pretty girls/ladyboys tempting you in is always going to question your resolve, I decide to leave it until another evening.
Instead I find a bar on a small terrace beside the Night Market ... called the Terrace! I have 2 big bottles of Chang and the service is excellent and attentative ... never having to pour from the bottle. Spend about an hour and a half watching the World go by and taking advantage of the free wifi which all bars seem to provide.
Feeling a bit heady (2 bottles of Chang is the most I have drank since arriving in Thailand) I make my way towards the house. However, upon arriving at the T junction close to the house I hear a band playing and sure enough I find the North Gate Jazz Café. The place is rocking so I perch myself by the bar and spend the rest of the evening listening to good live music and drinking large rum and cokes for 100 Baht (£2) a time. The band playing, a four piece with girl singer, knock out some great tunes including a great rendition of Valerie. Stay until closing which is about midnight and then I saunter back to the house rather tipsy.
Due to the escapades of last night, it takes a while before I get going and even then it is a lazy day. If I had a pool, it is there that I would have stayed but, not having this facility I instead wallow in bed before moving to the sofa. Eventually I leave the house ... I'm sure it has been another sunny day but all the curtains have been closed and I hadn't even ventured out for a smoke!
It is about 4PM and the sun is, indeed, shining and I head to the south of the city walls to where the Saturday Market is just setting up. Already crowds are gathering as the stall holders set up to display their wares. I'm not sure how long the market extends for, but it seems to go on forever, with the various side streets and courtyards acting as overspills for the proud marketeers. I walk the whole length of the market and find myself in the area where I got totally lost the other evening.
Now that the stalls are fully set up and trading, I wander back through the crowds looking at the various items being offered. There are many stalls selling clothes but also local handicrafts and a plethora of food stalls. The senses are overwhelmed ... the sight of garish colours of clothes, lanterns and weird fruit, the smells of barbecued meat, stir fries and spicy curries, the sound of the crowd and random people singing in the street and the taste of the delicious street food.
My first experience of street food in Chiang Mai is a banana waffle, freshly made before my eyes. There are a variety of fillings on offer including sweetcorn, bacon and, of course, chocolate. This piping hot delicacy costs a mere 40 Baht, less than a pound and is very much appreciated as I haven't eaten all day.
Next on my menu is sushi. I find 2 stalls pretty much side by side, each offering a variety of sushi delights ... the colours alone are enough to tempt me and I buy about 7 pieces for a total of a pound. These are served with wasabi and soy sauce and I polish these off in next to no time. Freshly made and delicious.
Now, next to these stalls is a stall selling fried insects. Intrigued I opt for a bag of fried locusts (reminds me of a scene in Life of Brian) which sets me back 20 Baht, or 40p. Nervously I tuck in and am relieved to discover they are not too unpleasant ... okay, they wouldn't be my first choice for a snack but if offered one I would happily munch on one. Difficult to describe the taste as they were covered in salt, but I'm sure the taste can be acquired!
Having experienced this feast of gastronomy, I head back to the house. En route, at one of the temples I happen to glance in and am happy to see a group of Buddhist monks meditating in front of the Buddha ... again, this calmness radiates out and I feel good. So much so, I avoid the Jazz bar and go straight home.
Now the next day, Sunday, I plan to get up early and go for a day out up towards the national park ... about 3 miles away. So at 11 o'clock (okay, the best laid plans of mice and men, etc) I stock up on supplies at my nearest Tesco Lotus store and commence on the 3 mile trek up towards the mountain. It is by now approaching the height of the mid day sun, probably over 30 degrees and 60% humidity. The walk along the main road is both hard and tiring but interesting. I could have hailed a red cab which would have cost no more than 40 pence but I wanted to see what was on the way. By the time I reach Chiang Mai zoo, which is just before the National Park I have already drank my two bottles of water.
Feeling exhausted, I decide that rather than continuing this walking malarkey I should visit the zoo and see the Giant Pandas. Now I'm in two minds about zoos and the various positives and negatives that can and have been said. But that is not for this blog.
I pay my £6 entrance fee for both the zoo and the aquarium and realise that any thought of not walking much is clearly wrong ... the place is huge! So big in fact that most visitors either drive around or catch the bus and/or monorail. For a Sunday, the zoo is surprisingly very quiet and I get to see most animals in my own company.
The zoo is set out over a large area and I sometimes have to walk for 10 minutes or so between the animals I want to see. Yes there are your usual monkeys although mainly the smaller species, e.g. squirrel monkeys, with the exception of the gibbons. There are also some of the big cats although both the tigers and lions are sleeping away from prying eyes. The solitary elephant doesn't look very happy so I don't stay there for long.
I never knew there were so many different types of tortoises and turtles! I guess these are much easier to look after in this climate than back in the UK. Along the way also see goats, kangaroos, sheep, snakes, crocodiles, rhino, hippos, giraffes, deer, funny coloured pigeons and more. There is a huge enclosure for orang-utans and I am delighted to get to see one of the old males right up close.
But the highlight, and what I have come especially to see ... the Giant Pandas. These are housed in a special, environmentally controlled area where the public have to have their shoes disinfected and all food and drink left on shelves. After a series of informative notices about the pandas and their threatened extinction, there are two large enclosures, each housing one Giant Panda. One panda was asleep but the other, the male, was very active stuffing his face and generally parading himself in front of an admiring group of spectators. I took loads of photos as this is one memory I want to remember.
After that, it was difficult to appreciate the other animals but I did venture into the Aquarium which has an underwater tunnel from which you can observe the various fish. Small sharks, tuna, barracuda, rays and others all share the enormous tank and it is calming just watching them swim by.
And so the slow walk back, at least by now the sun is low and I get to walk through a small arboretum on the way ... greenery in Chiang Mai is a rare thing!
Freshen up back at the house and head towards my favourite diner. However, I had not planned on the Sunday market which is in full swing and this delays my arrival at the Writers Club. The market is similar but on a smaller scale to yesterdays' one but this hasn't deterred the shoppers who are out in force and it takes a while to battle through the crowds. What I also hadn't envisaged was that the market continued past the club and when I arrived I was horrified to see that there were no tables available.
Undeterred I make my way to the bar where I am greeted like a local and I have a large, cold Chang. I don't really want to eat at the bar so just have a bowl of complimentary nuts. An American lady sat next to me at the bar complains to me that it is a cheek that these people have come to 'our' bar ... I don't think she is joking either! Anyway, I finish my beer leaving 100 Baht which includes a 'generous' 20 Baht tip and deciding that I didn't really want to eat after all!
Having had a taste of alcohol and in pursuit of more, I head to the Jazz bar where a band are in the process of setting up/tuning. I get myself a rum and coke and find a good seat just outside so I have an excellent view of the band and can smoke freely. The band are good, with their own interpretations of various Beetles, Rolling Stones and Flaming Lips songs amongst others. After 3 more large rums and waiting for the band to finish I go back to the house where I spend the early hours of the morning talking to friends over Skype. Finally hit the sack at 5 in the morning.
And so Monday comes ... not surprisingly a late awakening and also a very lazy day. Spend the time doing more travel planning and reading plus a bit of housework. Upon returning from the local store with my water supply and a few items of food, I am horrified to find an army of ants has invaded my makeshift pantry!
Somehow they have found a way in to an unopened packet of cereal and are hauling the contents back to their nest. They are everywhere. Spend the next half hour disposing of said cereal packet, moving other food stuffs into the fridge and cleaning down the pantry (well cupboard actually). Satisfied all has been dealt with, I wander down to the Writers Club where I have sweet and sour chicken with rice. This time I have 2 banana shakes. All is as good as ever and not disappointing. I know I should venture out to other establishments which I know I will but this place is such good value with very tasty food and excellent service that I will continue going here over the next 3 weeks.
I come back to the house and am pleased that the army has retreated.
The rest of the evening is spent catching up on this blog with the occasional cigarette break outside. On one such occasion, I venture out to the patio in the dark and am about to sit down when suddenly I notice movement on the chair .... a damn cockroach! At least it is outside. Going back in, I make up a solution of washing up liquid and water and then return to the battlefront where I proceed to chuck the water over the offending insect. It has the desired effect and renders it unconscious enabling me to dispose of it accordingly. Apparently the soap acts as a film covering the body of the insect, in effect suffocating the blighter. But they have a habit of recovering so swift action of the boot in a downwards fashion is required before disposing of the creature.
Hopefully that is the last of the insect uprisings. Unfortunately I have not seen my lizard friend the past 3 days which may explain the bravery of the insects.
Well ... finally up to date again. I hope you enjoy my blog ... please feel free to comment.
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Brian D
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Cool
Thanks Bob a big adventure you are having very well written interesting. Read. Should turn it into a book hope u r getting some good pictures as well take care look forward to the next one Brian D