Kissed by an Elephant

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We are starting to get used to these early mornings, even those who believe they are supposed to be on holiday and shouldn't have to get up on a schedule. Today was a ride in our trusty songteaw out to the first elephant hospital of it's kind. It was started by a very courageous Thai woman who truly has a heart for the suffering of animals who can't speak for themselves.



The Friends of the Asian Elephant foundation was started in 1993 with the woman going from village to village in the Chiang Mai area and witnessing for the ethical and safe treatment of elephants. With support from world and local organizations she built the hospital, and it has become a home for five permanent resident elephants, two of whom lost one of their front legs in land mine accidents. Elephants who need the hospital's services are brought in and cared for and are returned to their owners after rehabilitation. The resident elephants who had portions of their legs amputated have received prosthetic pieces and are still in rehab.



After visiting the hospital, we went to the Chang Thai area Elephant Conservation Center. It is a home for elephants who no longer have jobs in the Thai culture. Elephants are a major symbol of Thailand and are considered - well, I don't know the right word - they aren't holy - but are sacred. Unfortunately, the tradition of the "mahut" (or elephant trainer/keeper) has changed with the onslaught of technology and changes in logging. The traditional elephant in Thailand was domesticated as a beast of burden and/or used in battle, much like the oxen or horse in Western cultures. With the changes in the Thai culture, come changes to the elephant's place in that culture. Visiting the Conservation Center was both difficult and wonderful. I kept thinking the treatment of the elephants in the center and their health care has so much in common with someplace like Sea World - these animals have been born and raised in captivity, and they need to be cared for. How else do the mahuts and their families care for them? Some have been reduced to begging for fruit from people in the streets and Bangkok. It's such a quandary for me, and for the people of Thailand as well. I can see that the elephants are well cared for, and there is a special bond between the elephant and his mahut. I can't help but hurt for them, mostly because it is representative of the loss of a piece of important culture and a way of life for people of the North. And it's not like the elephants can be returned to the wild.



I must say, however, I will never again, I'm pretty sure, have an experience like I did at the end of the visit to the center. When the mahuts rode their elephants out to the water to bathe - I was able to hang out with one of the babies for a minute. Oh My!!!! To see their eyes so close and feel their leathery, rough skin with their spiky little hairs! None of that compared to the feeling of having a tiny baby elephant "sniff you up" looking for grass or corn. The little one's trunk was a delight of senses when it "kissed" my cheek and ear. I tried to give it some clover sprigs, but I was quickly passed over for someone else who did have an ear of corn.



The San Kamphaeng Hot Springs were just a songteaw ride away. Off we went in search of "geezers" as two of our British companions would say. The thermal springs are a delightful oasis in the rural area south of Chiang Mai. The gardens are beautifully manicured. The springs are "plumbed" somehow, and the geysers were controlled, we think. There's a spot next to the geysers where one can buy a basket of eggs and place it on a hook in a hot pool that's been built up and boil the eggs. There many options for bathing. One could rent a small hut for yourself, or a group hut for women/men. There was also a hut for groups. I opted for the large mineral pool and a foot massage. No one in our group could see the beauty and peace in that large pool - but I was in a bit of nirvana for about 12-15 minutes - the recommended time for a hot springs swim. I was in and out of the pool for about 45 minutes. You could really feel the weight and the softness of the minerals. Even though it was terribly hot, and the pool was even hotter, it was refreshing, and the cold shower followed by a foot massage by Pim was indeed a brilliant way to spend a few hours.

At the elephant farm, we met Aio - who was to be our hostess along with her husband and family that evening for our homestay. We were again treated to a most fabulous meal. Curry, TFC (affectionally known as Thai Fried Chicken) long beans and several other dishes, and a home made rice cake with a type of chocolately carmel drizzle. All served family style in two circles in the family's inside living space - which was also being used as a music classroom. We were seated on floor cushions around two knee high serving trays and ate family style. During the meal we were treated to traditional music played by the class that had just finished their lessons. After dinner was a presentation of traditional dance by local children (including the ubiquitous teen on the cell phone - kids are definitely kids the world over). After dinner - we were able to write our names on a paper lantern and walk outside to the street to light it and let it float into the night sky. What a wonderful addition to our trip.

The night was spent in a loft above their living space. Well, the seven girls slept upstairs, while the two couples shared a different room, and our single male traveler had his own space somewhere off in the hinterlands of the home. It was an evening of wonder. The loft was a simple framed space with beautifully made mattress pads on the floor - lined around the room two by two - each pair of pads was perfectly aligned with the mosquito nets hung above. The only giggle of the night was the - well, we can only assume they were bats or some other night crawly creatures - who were making an awful racket, but they only created a ruckus for a few minutes and it was pretty peaceful after that. Homestays can be awkward, but the family made us feel very welcome, and it was an experience that few visitors to a foreign land are lucky enough to have.

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